Learning from a grom

[surfinJ]

Beautiful California is easier with support from friends, thanks.

Being a grom is a stage that all surfers go through. Age doesn't matter, only being sufficiently stoked. What an example.

[SUPcheat]

Heh, Heh!  Hey, Jay, it looks like you got some footage.  It's always so much different on the video than I remember.  It was a moderately turbulent and windy day.  Nice video catch on my header into the water.

We were out on Thursday, and Friday and Saturday flattened out completely, so you got the decent wave day of the three. I guess you didn't get any footage of you and Beasho at Mavericks on Friday?

I do look pretty sunk on that Prowave, just like my neighbor says.  That impact vest really adds to the Pillsbury Dough Boy kook effect, too.

You had some nice rides there.  I really have to take out my neighbor's Pearson Arrow board and give it another whirl.

My neighbor (Tony) had his second surgery (neck vs. back) this last week and is in a lot of pain for the short haul, bit at least is done with the cutting.  In spite of the pain, he said he can tell the compression numbness is gone to his arms and shoulders, and I can see he is moving better already in his upper body just a few days post op.

I enjoyed your visit and hope you had a good trip.

[supthecreek]

Wow, J.... a visit with the cheat, that must have bee a blast!
Looks like you got some nice waves in uncrowded conditions.

Sc, you are doing better than me to stay upright on a 9'3 Prowave  at you H & W.
But... you probably would have a whole lot more fun on a board that makes life easier.... why struggle?... enjoy the glide

[SUPcheat]

Hey, Creek.  I gained at least 20 pounds over the rainy and overcast winter, but I am on the way to losing it again. I was already overweight for the board, and that just made it worse.

I have been noticing that my balance on the Prowave is advancing again after a plateau, and I am standing up on it a lot more.  At my age, I can't tell what's plateau and what is the end of the line on balance, but it's great that there still seems to be more there.

However, I love that damn board to pieces, it is always fun in spite of whatever struggle it presents, and it has taught me so much.  I am turning up and down the wave face like crazy now.   A lot of the turning and smacking is just having the right wave to do it on.

Jay probably has forgotten more about surfing than I have learned, and handled my neighbor's Pearson Arrow like a pro.

[stoneaxe]

May we always be groms.

[SpaceCoastPaul]

Nice work J. Thanks for sharing.

[PonoBill]

Stan Getz and Jao Gilberto!! That was the first album I ever bought as a kid (yeah, I was a strange kid, go figure). I saw them play at the Newport Jazz Festival with the beautiful and captivating Astrud Gilberto swaying and dancing in that restrained and absurdly sensual Brazilian manner. Love at first sight. She sang "Girl from Ipanema" and it cut me like a knife. A magical thing long before it got turned into elevator music. More than fifty years ago. Thanks for the memory.

[SlatchJim]

Great day, great music, and I love that Pearson Arrow Sup (Demo'd one a while ago and loved how fluid it felt).

I think I'm gonna spend the rest of the day at work listening to the Dave Brubeck Google radio station. 
You put just the right amount of style and groove into that vid. Thanks.

[SUPcheat]

Conversation with my wife, who has never seen me surf, watched any of my surf videos, and could give a rat's ass:

Me:  "Hey, Jay took some videos of me surfing.  Do you want to see?"

Her: "Hunh?  Well, OK, I guess.  Do I have to watch it in there?" (man cave)

Me: "Yeah, that's where the computer is."

Her: "What's that white thing on your head, and why do you look so fat?"

Me: "That's a protection helmet and a vest."

Her: "Do you really have to wear that?  Well, you looked OK on that one." (video of me surfing away from the camera).

Surf reinforcement isn't really her thing.

[SlatchJim]

Cheat,
My wife is out there with me nearly every session, I get immediate color commentary on how kooktastic I am. 

[clay]

I started watching the video before reading any comments. 

I'm like oh from the music this must be in France. 
Ah man these waves are really lined up that looks fun. 
Wow I don't know how anyone catches waves on their knees that looks painful.
Oh wait, I know that spot, and hey that's Carl!  Right on!

Ignorance is bliss 

[SUPcheat]

Wow I don't know how anyone catches waves on their knees that looks painful.
Oh wait, I know that spot, and hey that's Carl!  Right on!

Ignorance is bliss 

I think it is a peculiarity of my anatomy that kneesing doesn't bother me at all, nor does popping up from knees.  If it did, I would probably stand up more. Unfortunately, because kneesing is pleasant and feels safe, it enables my various lethargies.

I caught several waves yesterday standing up.  When you are not in the closeout sections, it does have a really nice organic feel to catch standing up and it feels more appropriate to the endeavor.  However, there are some marginal waves that on my particular board that I can catch on knees that I couldn't standing up, probably due to center of gravity issues.  Over 4 feet, it's a lot easier to catch standing up.

[surfercook]

Nice "Surfing", Jay!  Sweet point too!