Chree ta Foah

[PonoBill]

Fun session at Kanaha this morning. I got in the water at the crack of 10:30 as everyone was bailing. The wind was up, the surf was big, and it was closeouts everywhere. So of course I went out. I didn't think the wind was going to build much more, and it didn't for quite a while. First wave I took was lovely, nice face, about overhead and a half, lots of speed and power, stayed up more or less--one little section to get around. Getting back out was a little challenging, but not too bad.

With my confidence up I went for one of the bigger set waves. I turned and went for it, and it fell on my head. Took quite a little beating, but my waist harness was nice. Back out, watched the waves a little closer and I could see that the biggest sets could be ridden left from the usual right takeoff, but closed right out going right. So I did a couple of those that were probably close to DOH. fun drops, quick turn left and ride to the closeout, turn and survive the whitewater and the wave would reform sort of, and it could turn and play in the half-wave, half whitewater.

Headmount showed up, I watched him take a beauty but couldn't see much of the ride. I didn't see his board go flying, so I guess it worked. Sonni Honschied and her sister were out. I kept seeing this blond lady in some of the biggest set waves, ripping it up. That was Sonni. Then I saw this total stunner drop into a DOH plus. I waited for the carnage but it never came. She ripped it up. Sonni's sister. Sonni's a beautiful woman, and her sister is gorgeous. They definately dress up a lineup, especially one that's largely empty because of the challenging conditions.

I stayed out about an hour, got beaucoup good waves but the battle back out got worse and worse and the swell and wind built. I finally caught a real rocker, survived the drop, turned right and got past a seriously ugly section that I thought was bound to mow me, got onto a clear shoulder and rode it all the way to the lagoon. so now I was well down the beach from my entry point and my slippahs. Two choice--grind it back out and try to get over to the lefts, or just grind it out against the headwind. I looked for a path through the crashing surf that wouldn't wear me out, but didn't see one. I paddled the length of the lagoon looking, and then gave up and ground it out for shore.

Nice session. So few people out that I could go for whatever I wanted. I'll take that over glassy, small and crowded any day.

Tomorrow's s'posed to be chree to foah again and saturday fi' ta six. The regional forecast for the north shore is 7-10 today, 10 to 14 tomorrow, and 18 to 24 on saturday. Kanaha gets some shadowing from the reefs, but the set waves are usually more like the regional, so it should get interesting. Wind is supposed to be down in the morning. Check those leashes.

[WhatsSUP]

PB:  Sounds pretty wild to me!  Always enjoy reading your posts (as well as Bill B., and others) on Hawaiian surf and downwind adventures....would love to see some pics and vids of some of these outings!!!! 

Happy New Year!

[SUPcheat]

Could use some of the Maui warmth.  The last couple of Decembers have been warm and toasty around Santa Cruz, but cold this year. 

I went out and froze my booty.  After an hour, even with a 4/3 and gloves, I could tell the Tin Man was freezing up from hypothermia and wind chill.  I need to use my actual warm gloves and head protection tomorrow.

I could barely move my hands when trying to lash my board back on the car.

[SpaceCoastPaul]

Sounds like a fun day PB.

After this morning's early session, we went back out to the beach with the family and guests. It was small and clean and I enjoyed watching the proners milk every drop of juice out of waist high closeouts. I almost went home and got the short board, but it just didn't seem worth the effort.

But when you're in the water and on the beach on New Year's day, life is good.

[PonoBill]

PB:  Sounds pretty wild to me!  Always enjoy reading your posts (as well as Bill B., and others) on Hawaiian surf and downwind adventures....would love to see some pics and vids of some of these outings!!!! 

Happy New Year!

I was going to shoot some video today, but it looked so small and messed up when we hit the beach that I didn't bother with the camera. Big mistake. it would have been good stuff. It was kind of gnarly, but good size and lots of power. I think it's the really long period precursor stuff for tomorrow's monstahs. The stuff that looked a little overhead jacked to double or better. the first wave I took off on was a left, and it was so bumpy on the face that my feet left the board a couple of times annd I had a headache when I turned out. Sheesh.Shep was right behind me (I didn't know, I can't turn my head that far). and when I got back out he was still laughing about my ride.

Went over to the rights, and discovered they were smooth over the reef. So I did a bunch of those. I was riding in too far, the waves were reforming and were fun after the reform, so I kept going. Made for a long, hard paddle out.

Boyum was going for the glory waves, which given the way they were jacking didn't look like da kine to me. I've never seen him get mowed so many times. Everytime I looked over his board was ten feet in the air with a foot sticking up in double overhead whitewater.  Would have made for some fun video, if only because it was so messed up. But lots of fun. Still, after less than two hours I was done and my arms feel like they belong to someone else--I'm just watching these detached hands type.

[surfercook]

Gonna go flat here in NJ! Your post is drawing me back to Maui! Funny, my wife is like the travel agent here. She's always checking flight, accommodations, car rentals, ect. She found a nice getaway on Kauai, which I've always wanted to see/surf. It's a Marriot in Lihue. Location looked a little sheltered from the swells but I've no clue.
http://t.marriottvacationclub.com/vacation-resorts/marriott-kauai-beach-club/overview.shtml

Wish you had a GoPro to shoot all those waves and wahinis!

[PonoBill]

I've got all kinds of gopro, I'm just too disorganized and lazy.

[surfercook]

Well, your descriptions/write ups are FAR from lazy! If you put a fraction of that effort into some photography the results would be really good I'm sure. A picture tells a thousand words!

[covesurfer]

Now I wish I'd hooked my GP up. My new JL has a pretty cool FCS style mount on the nose. I meant to put the cam on there yesterday but I feel sort of self conscious when I put a GP on for a surf sesh.

Late afternoon yesterday, I went down to the harbor, which, when it's big, messy and confused at Kanaha, can be clean and very rideable. That was the deal late yesterday, the channel that lets you get out was nasty, windy chop. Makes my shoulders sore just thinking about it.

Once you were at the lineup spot, it was fine. Lots of water moving in the channel I guess. Anyway, there were some nice sets that peaked up perfectly and made for a short, punchy right or a long, jacking left. I was going mostly for the lefts and got three bombs that were all well overhead - yeah Pono Bill, one garden gnome high at least. Anyway, big long walls. Some of the funnest surf I've scored.

This morning, I showed up at Kanaha. Southbay and Kathy had already come in and HM was coming in I guess. It looked sort of gnarly and the report I got was 'lumpy/bumpy'. I managed to get a few on the inside, they were random and weird. I only stayed out half hour. But at least I got in for something on the first day of the year. Time to try for some downwind!

[WhatsSUP]

PB:  OK, you've got the gear (GoPro's and even drone's).......it'd be wicked cool to see some vid's! 

Ditto to SurferCook's comment!!!!

 

[PonoBill]

Well, your descriptions/write ups are FAR from lazy! If you put a fraction of that effort into some photography the results would be really good I'm sure. A picture tells a thousand words!

I type faster than I think.

Cove--surprised I didn't see you, I stayed out at least half an hour after HM and SB left. I don't really know when they left, but their rigs were gone when I loaded up. I should have stayed longer, I spent the afternoon working on fluffing up the house.

It wasn't really a good day to do much on the inside. The mid-size stuff on the outside was clean and fun, the big stuff was murder.  I got a couple of the big guys, but it was one turn, then straighten out and run for your life.  I tried to ride one of the big ones up high to outrun the sections  but I got hit hard, went off the high side and stretched the shit out of my new waist leash.

Some of the bigger set waves were cleaning out the lineup when I left. They didn't look like much on the horizon, but then they'd just keep jacking. I barely got over one that had to be triple. Got everyone but me and that cute little Japanese kitesurfer girl. Pretty spooky, but fun. I was going to wear my vest, but it looked too wimpy.

Wrong.

[covesurfer]

I could see what was happening when the monsters came. That's why I skirted going outside. I saw a couple of sets that jacked, held up briefly, then closed out with white water that was double my size at a minimum. Then, other ones would roll in and make some really nice clean faces. But it was random and the price of bad positioning was going to be a potential beating I didn't want on the first day of the year. Especially after yesterday's super fun session in the harbor late in the day.

I saw Randy out. He was wearing a vest. I had a lot of fun with that and will continue to until he shuts me up. Anyway, it wasn't a bad idea considering the chunder out there.

Late this afternoon, LPB and I rallied for a KCC to Polo run in our boats. It was light, not great if you'd tried it on standup but a blast in a one man. Kihei may work tomorrow afternoon too. And, we may get a nice surf sesh early before the wind comes up. Maybe. Somewhere.

[PonoBill]

I think tomorrow I'll be wearing a vest.  Maybe bring the GoPro. Should be pretty interesting.


Wind is supposed to be up early though.

[covesurfer]

I'd be very surprised if Kanaha gets even close to that size. But, it will be more than big enough. Can you say 'ginormous closeout?' If you're going to have a go out, take that camera by all means and post!

NW Maui is going to be windy from the get-go so that's probably a no-go too. I'll check my usual spot in the morning. It's protected and likely to be working although even there, I think the wind is going to be on it in a hot hurry.

I think the best hope for water time tomorrow is a south side downwinder, finishing around 2 or 2:30 based on the wind forecast.

[PonoBill]

Lower Kanaha gets the waves after the guts are ripped out by the outer reef, the average sets will be smaller, but every so often the full energy comes through. Those big sets that clean out the lineup. Still they are mushier than they would be out at tidy Bowls or outer Spreks. But we'll leave those for Mr. Kalama and his buddies. Kanaha should be manageable in the morning with the high tide if the wind cooperates a little. I'm hoping for clean DOH with consistent size. Is that too much to ask for?