Next up - Hawaiian wave board

[magentawave]

Looks good! I would keep the meat where you stand paddling and thin out the ends and the rails. Since you said this is for big Hawaiian waves, what's your thinking behind having such a wide nose and tail?

I hope to be building a new board soon too. Sure learned a lot the last time...

[surfcowboy]

Big is relative.

I've surfed my Fusion over there and loved it. Also, this is really a Hanalei board and so think about the Pearson Laird boards. This is becoming more like those than anything. Also note Kalama's shapes, nothing pointy at all really. I'm not really a Kai/Zane type of ripper guy. I want to be able to get in early, carve a nice bottom turn and get the heck out of the way when a big cleanup is headed my way.

When I'm home it'll be a fun board for the 50 weeks of the year that I'm not surfing nice warm big waves.

Pulled in noses are not really my thing and I've not had much trouble getting blown out of waves, if you're in early, which I like to be when it's overhead. So there it is, a big ass longboard for a big ass longboard wave. They won't let me surf pipe anyway.

[PonoBill]

I like the tail, I like the middle, I hate the nose--at least for big waves. You're going to be wearing that.

[TallDude]

Probably more for big mushers that don't throw at best. There are a number of characteristics I like about my Coreban Icon /it's little brother Fusion. One being the straighter rail line which adds glide and speed in the mushers. Super easy to catch wave with. The rounder nose gets you that straighter rail line. I like the durability of too. I've been surfing my Coreban a lot lately, and no repairs needed. I went to take my short board out a few weeks ago when we had a swell  , and there was a crack in the rail. I have no idea when or wear it happened. It usually needs to be repaired every other time I surf it, but it is my go to board when it gets big. The Coreban is pretty light too.
I don't like the domed deck or the staged rocker. Almost too much nose rocker, but helps on late drops. The flat mid section gives it speed but doesn't help it carve. I prefer a more continuous rocker which carves better, and a little flip in the nose. The typical down side to most well built V bagged durable wood veneer laminates is they can be too stiff. I like a board that flexes in a turn. I think this board you're designing fits into that 'performer' range of boards.
For our SoCal typical long breaks you're going down the right path trail Cowboy. Looking forward to seeing what evolves..

[Dwight (DW)]

If you're flat at the middle, leave it flat through the nose. It will paddle faster and get in earlier than if you scoop out the nose. That's what my R&D proved true.

[surfcowboy]

TallDude called it really well. Big mushers, anything hollow I'll be proning it these days. (I'll make something more trimmed up later on.)

DW, I wondered about that. My Simmons has a hull nose and I love it. Maybe I will start this one flat as you've offered a few times.

The nose doesn't really worry me too much, actually. My Simmons and Coreban are wide and I get over/through most anything but I do notice that I stand really far forward and tend to push through the lip most times I've been caught. I prefer the stability and rail line as was mentioned as once I'm over/through I can stay on and make sure that's the only one that's close instead of coming off and wearing a bunch.

As I've said, this is a test board and will change as I learn. I do love that this thread is such a clinic on board design. In the end, yes, this is not a Maverick's gun, but more of a big point break board, as was mentioned.

Also recall that this is 28" and 3.5" thick max (around 100-110 liters.) I'm hoping for 16-17 lbs weight, so it's a bit leaner than you might be thinking.