Author Topic: When it finally comes your way  (Read 2327 times)

headmount

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When it finally comes your way
« on: October 12, 2015, 10:19:38 PM »
Sup-Position posted a great pic where he talked about the bomb of the day.  And it was.  Check it out if you haven't.  You see these every session.  That one wave that stands out above all others.  One you can lean into where your board gives back to you as you bottom turn looking forward into the racetrack of your dreams. 

 Some guys win lotteries and pick off a whopper on a generally small and gutless day.  I've never felt lucky like that SUS. I pick the wrong ones and get caught inside just as that one special wave arrives or I  get jelly legs as one approaches like seeing some gal that is so good looking you fumble your best pitch.  Or it's a battle with four or five hungry guys, all who you know well and don't want to burn. 

That is until today.  We had a solid OH day yesterday and as it is with these early winter swells it dropped drastically today.  Still, with rare glassy conditions, you got to go even if just waist high. Winter is coming and you need to get strong.

So I had seen a few decent ones when I first paddled out at dawn but the morning degenerated into dismal gutless stuff.  After awhile my legs felt tired and went outside to sit and rest.  Something splashed across the surface and with the creature feature we've had recently, I jumped to my feet to paddle  back in closer to the pack. And then there it was, a leftover from yesterday, a big perfect tapered peak.  Everyone knew I was the only one who could catch it and the gallery lit up energizing my take off.  Definitely the wave of the day.  My number must have finally come up.

Our spot is even farther offshore than SUP-Position's shot angle and unless someone is out with a wtrprf cam there's no pics.  So all I have is this.

SUPcheat

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2015, 11:19:49 PM »
It is something how some waves, even larger ones, can have entry that is so smooth and buttery, it almost doesn't feel like an entry but a continuum. Then, some smaller ones can be gnarly balance trials.

My neighbor says the waves in Hawaii that he has been on are easier entry and easier to catch in general than the L41 waves in Santa Cruz, even the larger ones to head high.  I wouldn't know.  I think he thinks the warmer temperatures make the water more manageable, if that is even physically possible.
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Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

supdiscobay

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2015, 11:45:15 PM »
HM,
Great story.  Sometimes all it takes is that one wave to make your week or month.
We will be landing in two weeks and spending the month in Maui.  Hope I can be so fortunate to get one of those too!
8'5" Starboard Pocket Rocket, 8'0" Kazuma Fugu custom,  8'10" Kings Sidewinder, 10' Starboard Noserider, 14' BARK Carbon Dominator, SIC F16 V3, KeNalu and Quickblade paddles, 19' Eaton Prone, 67" Goode 9700

SpaceCoastPaul

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2015, 02:58:55 AM »
Yes indeed. Sometimes it seems like all the best waves arrive when you're caught inside, but when mother ocean sends you that perfect one, it's truly magic. BTW, your description of that moment is just as good as a pic. Thanks for sharing.
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supthecreek

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2015, 02:34:41 PM »
Appreciating it when it finally comes to you is the best!
I am glad your wave found you   :)

PonoBill

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2015, 02:51:01 PM »
Love that description. Got a version of that at Steamers last week. The waves were setting up either well towards the point or well out in the middle, with the difference clearly visible even when they were way off. There were two clumps of people lining up, the less daring were taking the middle sets, but they weren't small, most were head high or better.

I decided to move on the inside and try to get something a bit more hollow, but a big middle set came in. I didn't know exactly what to do, the big peak was a couple of hundred feet further from the wall, but I assume it was going to still pitch up on the inside and be a a-frame left. So I set up for the first wave in case there wasn't anyone going. It was a lot bigger than the earlier sets, maybe 1.5 OH, and everyone in the middle was too close in. I caught it going left, for a short ride to the rocks, but realized no one was in the wave, so I did a roundhouse and tried to make the section to get over to the right. The wave was mushy enough to have a slope of green water at the edge of the whitewater, so I stayed at the edge and ran like a thief. Got into the clear, then into the pocket, and rode it past all the other lineups on the way to the sand. Major fun, long ride, best of the day.

Looking forward to a good winter.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supdiscobay

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2015, 05:20:50 PM »
PB,
I have surfed and sus'd there for many years (decades actually) and that is one of the great things about that wave.  Not every wave will do that, but it sounds like you caught the left at middles and connected through to indicators and if you made to the sand, then you were able to beat the close out at indicators (tide has to be right) and wrapped around the corner and went all the way through to Cowells.  The only bad thing about a ride like that is the loooong paddle back out.
The section through indicators (in front of the statue near the stairs) can get steep and hollow.
To get one of those to yourself without someone dropping in is a rarity.  Glad you got one!
8'5" Starboard Pocket Rocket, 8'0" Kazuma Fugu custom,  8'10" Kings Sidewinder, 10' Starboard Noserider, 14' BARK Carbon Dominator, SIC F16 V3, KeNalu and Quickblade paddles, 19' Eaton Prone, 67" Goode 9700

PonoBill

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2015, 06:01:34 PM »
I had a few guys drop in, but just waited them out. I saw that close out coming, but the Foote is really good at beating those if you just trim it up and lean. I went up and over a guy that was going straight, and a cute girl that I came up behind pulled out when I told her to just stay in. I don't know why. I do look kind of like a combination of Wilford Brimley and Ray Nitschke, so that might be it.

Long ride. And yes, a very long paddle back out.

When I close my eyes I see that wave. That, or the big hollow one I got at Rincon.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2015, 06:04:45 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

DCSurf

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Re: When it finally comes your way
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2015, 07:37:26 PM »
Nice !! I love those moments.

 


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