So I've decided to build it myself 7-4 x 34 x 4.8 130l

[stoneaxe]

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,28274.msg298144.html#msg298144

Now comes the questions. Ideas on glass schedule, favorite resins, etc.

I want carbon on the rails and a patch covering the sweet spot but i want the board white and I'd prefer not to just put paint on at the end. What are the options?

Any secrets to adding the wood blocks? I figured to cut the angle on the roughly shaped blocks, use the same resin to glue them on and then use a rasp, draw knife, and sanding to blend the shape.

I need to clean out my shed....i should have just enough room to do this. That's going to be a challenge in itself.
http://lumberjocks.com/Treefarmer/blog/1283
I hope this comes out as good as this, the 1st chair I ever built. I had just barely enough skill to pull off the chair but the design for it ended up in Fine Woodworking magazine...mostly because it was done in Sketchup and it was relatively new back then, but what the hell, I'll take it....I even got paid.....

[PonoBill]

I'm pretty fond of resin research stuff, but I'm going to try Greenroom next. For glassing schedule I'd go 6/4 top, 6 bottom in S glass. I'd do a full patch of carbon or carbon kevlar in the deck area. Not sure you need anything on the rails for a board that short. You can put the carbon on and then paint it, and then glass over the paint. Don't put the paint on thick, just mist it. That's what I did for the big pieces of the AMBRO car I'm building. I didn't want the carbon to show on a body for a car built in 1959. It's going to be painted, but people look at everything in vintage racing. If I had female molds I would have gelcoated them, but I was building on male plugs.

Get someone who knows what they're doing to do the finboxes for you. Touchy.

[stoneaxe]

The finboxes are the only part I really feel sketchy about. If the rest isn't perfect I could live with it but if the fins are off.....   I want to reinforce them too. I'm tough on finboxes for some reason. I wish Larry was nearby.... .

I'm going to go all the way with this. Vac bag for sure, if for no other reason that I want to learn how. I could very easily see myself building my own boards when I retire.

Hmmmm.....what about a wood veneer patch instead of carbon, or maybe in addition to, on the deck? Pretty sure I could get it to conform to those curves. A patch just slightly larger than the pad. That might be too much wood though.

Who makes the best handle? The blue planet looks great.

Gortex vent?

[PonoBill]

Yeah, do a fin patch. A second layer of 6OZ in the fin area won't weigh that much. Lay it on dry and then wet it lightly, just enough to hold it, the put on the pre-wet bottom, then just squeegee it until it sucks up enough resin from the layer above it. Peel ply, release film (how did I not know about that before), breather, then bag it. Don't get carried away with vacuum, it's easy to distort the board. I don't use much more than 6" of vacuum unless I'm doing something single-sided in a mold or flat, and then I just crank it up.

Yeah, sure you can use veneer for the top. Make it the first layer and bag it separately, Don't try to get cute and skip a step. You can bag that single sided (use film instead of a bag and sticky putty to seal it to the board)

Don't forget your EPS needs to be filled. Well, it doesn't need to, but push less epoxy into the foam if you do. I've been using spackle, but recent experience tells me epoxy with microballoons is better. It sands flatter. If you use microballons, once you've sanded the board don't touch it with bare hands. I find just blowing it off with air gives me a better result than trying to wash. Of course you can't wash spackle.

[supuk]

My advice is if it's your first board keep it simple! You will find enuff thing to screw up on just with a stright forward lam with out worrying about carbon rails and vac baging ect plus being a new design there is a good chance you may want to change something fairly soon after trying it plus. Double 6 top and bottom with a deck patch would be my call

[stoneaxe]

What's a good price for getting a blank cut on a CNC?

[supuk]

What's a good price for getting a blank cut on a CNC?

you may actually struggle a bit to get 34 wide cut, marko only go up to 33" you may need to go to some one with more of a flat bed cnc than a surf board one to get the width. some times its posable to cut one side at a time and move it over to do the other but is quite a lot harder to do. The one machine that springs to mind is the one dave has at kings.

there is a list of machines on here

 http://www.shape3d.com/CNC%20SCAN/CncScanTheShape3dUser.aspx

and just by luck i saw  these people go to 36 wide http://www.precisionshaping.com

[stoneaxe]

I think I like the double 6 top and bottom with the patch. I can skip the carbon on the rails that way I'd think and if I do the veneer deck patch I'd think that would suffice. I'm still going to do the veneer stripe top and bottom. I can avoid any painting that way too. I'm still going to go with bagging. I'm going to shape a small surfboard for my granddaughter first out of a 4" thick piece that was 1/2 the old cover of our hot tub. I'll experiment with that and a couple other pieces 1st.
In going double top and bottom. Better to do one layer at a time and alternate top and bottom or do two at once each side? I'd think that pre-wetting and rolling might let you do two at once. Seems like alternating would be the better practice though.
Thanks for the link....precision looks good. They can do the double stringer I was interested in as well. Wonder what shipping would be?

Natureshapes quoted $300 for a CNC cut. That seems reasonable I guess. Need to make sure they can do 34" though. I was going to go to 33 but decided to err on the safe side.

[outcast]

K.I.S.S.
First it's beautiful.
Do it for love, but be prepared for pain

I would loose that tail wood block.....that's hours and hours, and then tough to glass well

Yes to carbon rails...paint or decals

"One layer at a time and alternate"  ...If you are asking that maybe get a glasser  or work with Vec on this

[PonoBill]

Not too many shortcuts available. I haven't done a board from scratch other than sanding most of the glass off existing boards. But every time I try to take a shortcut I wind up with a wad of glass in the yard.

[Bean]

If you are considering a standing area patch, veneer, CF etc. and you anticipate vac bagging anyhow, maybe consider using divinycell as the sandwich core.

[stoneaxe]

Not sure why that question would require a discussion with Vec. I thought I remembered DW doing just that, two at a time that is. Only reason I haven't talked to either Vec or Keith (Twin Lights) is because they don't bag. I had asked to get my 8-4 bagged and couldn't. I could still talk schedule and technique with them though but its far easier to simply ask the question here.

I'll be very surprised if there isn't some pain. Love for sure....why bother otherwise...and the best lessons usually have a fail component. The blocks stay for sure. I'm pretty capable with both hand and power tools shaping wood. So long as I can avoid my knuckles that is. I'm thinking 4-6 hours total on the build and shaping of the blocks. I'll do at least a small part of this with a drawknife that was my fathers, and my grandfathers before him. The details are the fun part. I may do more than just a little pyrographic detailing to the wood.

Some great looking veneer available for the deck and stripe. I need to figure out what will be best to use for the deck patch.

[PonoBill]

That spokeshave figured large in almost every wood project I did when I was a kid. A pretty blunt tool in my hands though.

Two at a time works if everything goes your way. I've done it, but I'm always working alone, and you kind of need two people to roll the second layer out well--three would be better. And you probably need to yell at them while you're doing it, so it can't be Sue.

I only learn if I fail. But maybe that's just me.

[jrandy]

Stoneax-
Add a leg strap to that and there's one killer kneeboard for a Yeti...
Sasquatch humor aside, it looks like a fun build, best wishes.-J

[stoneaxe]

I keep it razor sharp, it takes a scary sharp edge. I made the paddles that you and Mike have with it in large part. Sue's dad also gave me all his old hand tools, a nice mix of rasps, chisels, planes, etc. Power makes it easy but I love carving and shaping wood with hand tools.


I'm going to stick with the alternating overlaps, take my time and do it right. I'll be making enough mistakes without adding more to it.


I have been accused of being a  sasquatch J so you may be on to something.....