Author Topic: Rail Tape Woes  (Read 7603 times)

SUPJorge

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2015, 10:12:56 AM »
"This one is easy." -- US Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia

RS Pro. 
14' SIC Bullet V2 - 9'1" Naish Hokua X32 LE

supgobes

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #16 on: September 03, 2015, 10:52:50 AM »
Anybody else get scraped up from the edges of rspro?

eastbound

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #17 on: September 03, 2015, 11:38:35 AM »
not me, never.  and i have the stuff on 3 boards
Portal Barra 8'4"
Sunova Creek 8'7"
Starboard Pro Blue Carbon  8'10"
KeNalu Mana 82, xTuf, ergoT

Bulky

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #18 on: September 03, 2015, 12:56:08 PM »
I don't use rail tape.  Mainly because I'm lazy, but I'm not much of a rail-whacker.  A well-used board is a scuffed up one but it's always hard to see those first couple nicks.  After awhile, I kinda like the battle-ax look.
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Board Stiff

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #19 on: September 03, 2015, 06:25:02 PM »
I just finished my first application of RailSaver Pro, and my initial impressions are mixed. I wiped down the rails on my X14-Pro with alcohol and let it dry. Then I tried applying the tape on the first side dry. Peeling the first 6-8" back a couple times as I tried to line it up went a little better than it has in the past with helicopter tape. With enough effort, the tape released and didn't seem to take off any paint, though each of 3 or 4 successive tries got much tougher to release and felt like I was rolling the dice with paint damage.

With the dry application, the tape quickly stuck to the rail as soon as it came in contact, but didn't seem to want to stick tightly. By that I mean it always looked like it needed to be pressed down more, even after I pressed and rubbed firmly. I was disappointed to find tons of small air bubbles when I finished the first rail, and I couldn't get most of them out even with lots more rubbing, including with some light heating from the heat gun.

On the second side, I decided to go back to the wet application that has worked better for me with helicopter tape. I sprayed the rail down thoroughly before starting to apply the tape, and if seemed to go much better. It was easier to peel back a bit and realign, and the tape seemed to go on smooth and cling to the surface more snugly as I smoothed it on. As it got towards the middle of the rail, it started getting trickier to work with, so I applied more water and it went easier again. Once I was done with the application, I was disappointed to find that there were still lots of bubbles on this side too, and though I could slide them around easier by rubbing along the tape, I wasn't really able to get rid of too many.

I'm hoping that, as often happens with phone screen protectors, letting it sit overnight will result in some of the bubbles disappearing. Overall, this tape was slightly easier to work with than the helicopter tape I've used before, but it left more bubbles immediately after application than the helicopter tape did. I'll reserve judgement there until I see how it comes out tomorrow. I'm also not too keen on the rough surface texture. I'm not sure if it's just for looks or serves some purpose, but but it has pretty much rubbed my thumb prints right off my thumbs, and I suspect it will scuff up my paddle and anything it rubs against too. I also wasn't thrilled that I couldn't find any tape that didn't have the railsaverpro.com text on it, but now I'm thinking that it at least means that the final appearance of the tape will reflect or RSPro for better or worse.

Ultimately, I'm still hopeful that the tape will look better after settling in for a night, and that it will be less susceptible to peeling under my tie down ropes than helicopter tape. If that all happens, than it may be worth the really steep price.

eastbound

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2015, 05:49:32 AM »
i put it on dry. if it's sticking i find i can tension the tape and force it to conform to the the rocker curve/rail shape. if i get it wrong i peel back to the start of the problem and restick that section. were it wet, wouldnt be able to tension and pull tight along rail shape. i find the tape sticks at the apex of the rail at first. then, once i am good with layout i push both edges of tape from the center, with two thumbs, along the entire length of the tape, to clear most bubbles and secure the entire piece.

love the buzz when i whack rails with rsp. with the naish/heli and other tapes, the whacks chink the tape, exposing the rail. protects a bit but nothing like the rsp which doesnt chink at all.
Portal Barra 8'4"
Sunova Creek 8'7"
Starboard Pro Blue Carbon  8'10"
KeNalu Mana 82, xTuf, ergoT

mrbig

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2015, 06:14:13 AM »
A common pin, razor blade, or x-acto can eliminate any bubbles.

I did not have s good experience with RSP dry on short curvy boards. Longer race boards a different and much easier animal.
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Off-Shore

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2015, 06:34:45 AM »
I have applied RSP dry to a SIC F16 and SIC Bullet 14v1 without issues. I use a Sharpie or other similar sized plastic round tube to press the tape down starting at the middle of the tape and working to the sides while holding the tape not stuck down to the rail away from the board. They key is to work slowly. If you try to stick longer lengths in one time you get bubbles and trapped air. I try to ensure I'm sticking the tape down 1/2" / 12.5mm at a time while at the same time making sure the direction is correct and centre of the tape stays at centre or the rail
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AJR

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Re: Rail Tape Woes
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2015, 08:53:41 AM »
The real RSPro is definitely the easiest to install.  I just did some the other day; I cleaned the board and wiped it down with alcohol.  Let it dry, then wet my hands with a solution of baby shampoo, alcohol, and water (i kept my hands wet throughout).  I taped on end and worked my way back; pressed the center down over a foot long section then used a blue squeegee (like they use to apply body protection paint to cars).  I wiped with the squeegee from the center up to push the air out.  Repeated the process from the center down.  Then I set another foot long section and repeated...

 


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