Author Topic: Keeping the board from running away  (Read 6929 times)

IRideYellow

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Keeping the board from running away
« on: August 02, 2015, 11:39:54 AM »
I was surfing my 7'10 the other day and on three super nice waves I found that I caught the wave, sometimes unbalanced,and just after the drop suddenly my board takes off and I'm left walking on water.  This is super frustrating and dangerous for other surfers as well.  So I'm looking for techniques to try that will put me back in charge.

At this break the waves jack up very fast so I have what feels like zero time to go from paddle stance to surf stance (this board is very unstable at this break with the reflected waves off the cliffs so I'm in a wide staggered stance just to stay upright and I have little time to paddle forward since it all happens so fast, if I'm in the right place for the take off)

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supsurf-tw

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2015, 01:47:15 PM »
As you're paddling for the wave, get into surf stance just before you're in. That way you're ready to go as soon as you feel that push.
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SUPcheat

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2015, 02:14:49 PM »
I would imagine it is a good idea to learn how to SUP in modified surf stance.  It may be board specific, but modified surf stance with feet closer to the stringer line (rather than wider) can be more stable and require less foot correction when entering the wave.
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IRideYellow

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2015, 03:31:59 PM »
I wonder if I'm not in surf stance when catch the wave,  that would explain it.  I'll try paddling with a narrower stance and also try paddling all the time  in surf stance.  cool something new to learn to do.
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nalu-sup

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2015, 03:43:09 PM »
Let us know how it works out. In another thread we were discussing a similar issue. It only happens to me in overhead waves with a late takeoff. Since I know whats coming, I am already in a long surfing stance; a humorous imitation of Greg Noll at Waimea in the 60s so I should be pretty solid. But when I hit the bottom and lay hard onto the rail, the board accelerates straight ahead, instead of cranking around like I am expecting from smaller waves or less critical takeoffs. The two ideas that came up in that thread were to either get the turn going before the board accelerates all the way to the bottom, or else try to scrub a little speed before laying hard onto the rail. It was also pointed out that I am on a fairly high volume board (130) for my weight, which it does not sound like is part of your issue. Let us know what works out for you.
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SUPcheat

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2015, 05:59:43 PM »
I was looking at Kirk (Mr, L41) today on one of his new longboards.  He is ALWAYS in some kind of surf stance and his heels are always close to the stringer line.   A lot of his sessions, he surfs and never gets wet.  He is the iceman of balance skill, though.

I have been trying the "close to the stringer line"  parallel stance slightly back from the main balance point coming back out from a wave, and it seems to capture a little round ball of gyroscopic balance that lets the whole board toss all over the place without necessarily losing balance or falling off.  I have gotten it to work in toss about eight times.  I guess my brain maps were finally ready for it.
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Biggreen

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2015, 05:01:10 PM »
Yeah, surf or modified surf stance will go a long way in helping you out. With your feet spread front to back makes it tougher for the board to run out from underneath you. With practice you'll find yourself leaning either forward or back depending on the wave.  And with more time you'll probably even begin to lengthen or shorten that stance depending on the wave.  An example is when I'm going for a wave that jacks up fast and steep and is on the verge of breaking, I'll have a wide front to back stance and a good crouch so if I get blasted I can most often hold on till I can get on the clean face. Then I can either put pressure front to back as needed.  Good luck! Keep us informed.

breakbad

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2015, 08:18:28 PM »
On my 8x30 a modified stance is much more stable for me, the sweet spot is too hard to manage. But eventually I get tired of loosing rides because of what you describe and other follies. Now I just go full (or near full) surf stance during the few strokes prior. On my more stable 9'6 I'm in surf stance all the time, and when I drop it's usually a choice to move the foot back an extra 6 inches on the tail or not. I won't stay it's improved my wave count because I am still learning. But...I can say I'm getting more nimble and confident.

addapost

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2015, 09:29:40 AM »
Learning how to deal with that issue was a major breakthrough for me. In addition to being in a surf stance (as mentioned above) I bend my front leg and lean forward over it to offset what is basically inertia wanting to "throw" you off the back of the board. The timing is important here but as soon as you feel the tail start to rise bend your front leg and lean toward the nose. Time that with an aggressive paddle stroke on your "open" side (back foot side) for propulsion as well as bracing and BAM you should be gliding down the face, balanced on the board looking for the bottom turn. This is a part of my overall philosophy that just about any SUP problem can be solved by getting lower. My $0.02 Have fun!
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JP4

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2015, 09:56:28 AM »
One thing I've found that works for me as I'm trying to get better at this, is to make sure I'm coming into the wave at enough of an angle where I can easily look back and paddle at the last possible moment to catch it.  That way I know the exact moment the wave is going to pitch so there's no surprise and I can lean forward (already in surf stance), take just a couple digs on the paddle, and be on my way.
Doesn't work every time yet and I don't know if it's good technique or not, but I've been getting thrown off the back a lot less since I've been trying it. 
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mrbig

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2015, 11:52:07 AM »
I ate it big time on my SIC 9'4" in a winter wave of consequence.

I realized, upon further review, that my balance was too far back - almost imperceptible - but as soon as I made the drop the board accelerated right out from under me and SPLASH!!

I was in full surf stance, but caught leaning the wrong way!
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banzai

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2015, 05:03:41 PM »
Where are you catching the wave, paddling before the wave gets steep, closer to the break point, or as the wave breaks? Charge is the word! Like addapost said, try charging by leaning forward with knees bent as you drop down the face. That way your board won't fly ahead of you. You should be in your surf stance before you're on the wave for late take offs with just one or two strokes.

Zooport

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2015, 08:58:44 AM »
Where are you catching the wave, paddling before the wave gets steep, closer to the break point, or as the wave breaks? Charge is the word! Like addapost said, try charging by leaning forward with knees bent as you drop down the face. That way your board won't fly ahead of you. You should be in your surf stance before you're on the wave for late take offs with just one or two strokes.

Agree. It sounds like a balance thing to me.  1. The board shoots out from under you probably because you are not leaning into the drop, you are leaning back a bit.  2. Be sure you are in a full surf stance as you catch the wave, you can get into one as soon as you pick up speed.  This helps front to back balance.  3. Make sure there is a good amount of bend in your knees.  Stiff, straight legs will mess up your balance a lot.
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southwesterly

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2015, 03:04:05 PM »
My friends and I have always called that move a "Mr. Wilson".

Remember when Mr. Wilson would step out of his house and right onto Dennis's skateboard? It was funny as he flew in the air and landed on his back.

In reality, I guess it's not very funny as most of us are more Mr. Wilson's age rather than Dennis's.

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Re: Keeping the board from running away
« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2015, 03:16:27 PM »
We've always called it a "Jetson" or a "George"  after "Jane stop this crazy thing",  Occasionally referred to as a "krazy Jane"  or in even rarer cases an "Astro"  or  a  "Ruh Roe"...........Wait...
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