Re-decorating for resale.

[Wetstuff]

My AW got away from me.  The silkscreening on the nose was flaking off .. the body was chalky but I did not want to sell it for $400.  I also didn't want to replace the deck pad - not only for the cost.  The base color was the easy part, a couple coats of Transtar epoxy primer with Nason 2K Urethane color.  I was tempted to leave the green within in the pad - but you never learn anything leaving Chit alone..






Not perfect - but expedient. I used Oracal 970 auto wrap and my plotter/cutter to make the strips.  Auto wrap is overkill ..and flat black may have been better to match the tail stop, but I like a bit of color.

Jim

[surfcowboy]

Nice work and cool to see someone use the vinyl cutter. I'm about to work on some rail tape for my new board. I'm looking into clear bra materials to cut for this.

Could you post shots or links to your primer and paint?

[PDLSFR]

please more pictures and then the price, just sold my AW 8'10 for $750

[magentawave]

Subscribed

[Wetstuff]

Whew!  ...it's been a slow selling season over this way. I like to try new boards but don't like sitting on duplicates...  A really nice guy bought it. (another shortboard/longboarder convert!) Took it to a local pond to test where the bugger simply hopped up on it ..and paddled off.  He'd done some cruiser rentals so it was not totally foreign. 



I am sorta happy I thought I just had to refinish it.  To my taste, it was both over decorated from the factory and aged poorly.  Pure WHITE is so kickass looking in the water. ..better than fluorescent.  If my Sunova Skate did not have such a good looking wood deck, I'd spray it too.



The first thing I did was some Plasti Dip.  That's quick/cheap/easy ..and easy to remove.  So easy, it took a beating on the sand.  Good for my grandson's Subie wheels.. not so for boards.  Here's the stuff...



Like everybody, I have a number of Harbor Freight paint guns ..even one of those HVLP cyclone units, but finally broke down an bought a DeVilbiss Plus off Ebay.  It lays down paint much better.  The 1.2 nozzle seems fine for everything I have shot so far.  For the heavy primer I do use a 2.0 HF gravity gun.  Dummy here did not mist the inside of the construction trailer I shot it in so the air pressure when shooting paint raised dust.  Not too bad tho'.  Every day is an opportunity for more learning.

Jim

[Wetstuff]

Nice work and cool to see someone use the vinyl cutter. I'm about to work on some rail tape for my new board. I'm looking into clear bra materials to cut for this.

Cowboy, I wanted to mention this because it's an interesting problem.  In about 2003 I was fiddling with various tapes to make protective edging for a couple of cars I had and SUP kinda revived my curiosity.  Back then, I bought a roll of 3Ms heavy protective clear and a number of other tapes.  In the last few years there have been new applications for protecting graphics that could transfer over to SUP.  Some of these things are up to 12mil. 

One thing you have to think of - painted surfaces.  If you want to remove the tape ..damn paint comes with!  I found a roll of some really interesting stuff that would be great for limited usage.  Maybe 2-4 times before you replace it but I am having difficulty making smooth slices off a 60" roll.  There's just enough adhesive to hold going down the road at 70mph, but peels off quick and clean.  The other thing.. if you get clear film that is too thick - you can never rid yourself of the bubbles.  I have applicator chemicals ..tried other things: BUBBLES.   ..even tried heat like the car wrap guys. 

You might want to consider this...   Faux carbon wrap. 



First board I had, a Cabby 9-something ..I beat the Chit out of the rails.  Just don't square the ends.  If you find something interesting, and are not thinking of taking it commercial, send me a PM.

Jim

[magentawave]

Wetstuff, is one of these the faux carbon wrap you used? How long has the stuff lasted on a board you used a lot?

http://www.amazon.com/SimCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl-BLACK/dp/B0059XEM9I?

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchprint-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl/dp/B0058DIDTY

[Wetstuff]

MW, Neither of these say how thick they are, but I'd pick the first one because it's a cheap test.  3M makes some great stuff but I don't like paying for a flight department that keeps five G-5s at the ready as perks for management.

Mine is 3D*, 6.9 mil made by Mactac. (Mactac was the 'Kleenex' name given to any sticky shelving material when I lived in Canada..)  It's ~$60yd, 60" width. I got some legitimate self-adhesive carbon from Japan a few years ago that I have not found a use for yet - quite stiff.

*also have some carbon-looking film with no dimension by Avery. 3.5 mil that is easy to cut with a plotter. It's ~$20yd, 15" width.  Nice for lettering...

Jim

[magentawave]

You sure have a lot of great ideas, Wetstuff. You should consider starting a thread with all of your SUP idea's. 

Apparently the cheaper stuff here http://www.amazon.com/SimCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl-BLACK/dp/B0059XEM9I? is 6.3 mills thick so that's pretty good. Have you found that it curls up around the edges after being used for a while?

MW, Neither of these say how thick they are, but I'd pick the first one because it's a cheap test.  3M makes some great stuff but I don't like paying for a flight department that keeps five G-5s at the ready as perks for management.

Mine is 3D*, 6.9 mil made by Mactac. (Mactac was the 'Kleenex' name given to any sticky shelving material when I lived in Canada..)  It's ~$60yd, 60" width. I got some legitimate self-adhesive carbon from Japan a few years ago that I have not found a use for yet - quite stiff.

*also have some carbon-looking film with no dimension by Avery. 3.5 mil that is easy to cut with a plotter. It's ~$20yd, 15" width.  Nice for lettering...

Jim

[Wetstuff]

MW,  Kind words, but with a ping-pong brain, rapid prototyping = tall scrap heaps. (anybody need a seam sealing machine to seal wetsuits?)  All these sort of tapes stick pretty well. Like I said, too good sometimes.  Just don't make any sharp corners - they will curl back - large radius everything. Cheers. 

Jim

[jrandy]

Jim, the board looks great. Do you have any more paint jobs coming up? Could we talk you into a tutorial please?-J

[surfcowboy]

Wet stuff, I missed this one for a bit. Yeah I'll share what I find. I'm also working on a plotter cutter file so we can lay out clean cuts. My board is not painted so it should be fine.

I used regular calendared vinyl for a couple of years and it was ok, not great but kept the paint from chipping. You think the 6 mil is ok? I'll see if I can find some decent stuff at my local vinyl supply next time I'm there.

And yeah, I'd love a paint tutorial on here.

[supthecreek]

Wow.... as usual...I miss a lot of good threads because the disappear into the archives in a few minutes of wit-chat.

Jim.... you do great work.... I don't know exactly what you did.... but it looks like you did something interesting.
Are all those pics of the green 9'10....even the blue ones? or 2 different boards?

More step by step, for us mere mortals 

and I'll hunt around for it.... when it hides again.

[Wetstuff]

Thanks guys  ..it's little more than fixing a car fender or painting a Vespa.  Sand/Mask/Primer/Sand/Filler/Sand/Primer/Sand/Sealer/Sand/X coats of topcoat ..sanding some more then Buffer/Buffer/Buffer.   I have the luxury of burying the costs in my business and an old site trailer to do it in.  I didn't really know much more about it than most of you...  Worst that can happen (often does) is I have to do it over?!  But it can be like 'the wave of the day' ..a permagrin when you're done.



Creek, it was a green 9-2 that I even-traded your old 9-6 for with a guy down in VA.  The 9-2 had some rail damage with a mismatched white repair ..and then me farting around with Plasti Dip forced me to get out the sandpaper because the not-so-well-attached screen printing on the nose flaked badly when I pulled the Plasti Dip off. (I should have used solvent)  I didn't much like the green ..and I had some metallic blue auto wrap...

Cowboy..  6mils is plenty thick. (depending)  I also also use it on the paddle blade all the way up to the shaft joint because I spazz in the surf.  You also might want something opaque because bubbles are like flies at a picnic with clear..  Carbon even comes in white and other colors.


   



Jim

[magentawave]

I bought this 13’ x 50” fake carbon vinyl for only $3.50 with free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SH-3D-Texture-13-x50-Carbon-fiber-Vinyl-Sheet-car-Decals-wrap-Sticker-BLACK-GX1-/271948654280?

Like Wetstuff said, it comes in lots of different colors: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo&_udhi&_fpos&LH_CAds&rmvSB=true&_sop=15&LH_ItemCondition=3&_nkw=carbon%20fiber%20vinyl%20wrap&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Here's a list of fake carbon vinyl wrap from Amazon. Prices include shipping:

- Black 24” x 60” for $8.00: http://tinyurl.com/oqncfkp

- Silver 12” x 60” for $9.00: http://tinyurl.com/pjpcqjj
- Silver 24” x 60” for $16.00: http://tinyurl.com/nt2sfgx
- Silver 24” x 60” for $20.00: http://tinyurl.com/pen94as
- Silver 36” x 60” for $21.00: http://tinyurl.com/pncsgnz

- Clear 12” x 60” for $11.00: http://tinyurl.com/pxo226m
- Clear 24” x 60” for $9.00: http://tinyurl.com/q9e9tfb
- Clear 24” x 60” for $20.00: http://tinyurl.com/okkmvxs

- Red 12” x 60” for $10.00: http://tinyurl.com/pncsgnz
- Red 24” x 60” for $13.00: http://tinyurl.com/owk4sw5

- Grey 12” x 60”  for $10.00: http://tinyurl.com/nomkvg9

- Green 12” x 60” for $10.00: http://tinyurl.com/pznllfm

- White 24” x 60” for $15.00: http://tinyurl.com/qaab7yg

- Gold 12” x 60” for $11.00: http://tinyurl.com/npkqgx3

- Yellow 24” x 60” for $15.00: http://tinyurl.com/qzs5ovd

- Blue 12” x 60” for $10.00: http://tinyurl.com/q2c5t7x
- Blue 24” x 60”  for $15.00: http://tinyurl.com/nps36p3

- Orange 36” x 60” for $21.00: http://tinyurl.com/odejkqt