12-6' x 30" design tips

[Biggreen]

What an evolution this project has been, jrandy. Been cool to follow. When you're learning as you go along, isn't it great to be able to combine maddening, confusing, frustrating, and rewarding all together as one and actually enjoy them all!

[jrandy]

You see it now. It's R & D from here. Finish it, paddle it, study it, and change it.....

What an evolution this project has been, jrandy. Been cool to follow. When you're learning as you go along, isn't it great to be able to combine maddening, confusing, frustrating, and rewarding all together as one and actually enjoy them all!

Thanks Guys, and thank you to everyone else here for all of the input and inspiration.

I fiddled with the sections from the other day and got them from paper to scanner to AutoCAD to Inventor.
Someday I'll give it a go in surfboard design software. I've tried a couple times but have been too impatient to finish. Here's a couple visuals. Hopefully I'll get the nerve up to go after the blank today. -J

[jrandy]

I had some time in the garage today- 90 degrees, humid, college radio, and a fan...and now it's starting to look more like a board.  I banded the lower rail 3' from the tail towards the nose with a planer, and finally dug in to the nose with the long sanding board.  I'll have to see what it looks like with the sidelights later, too hot today to work with the door closed.

[jrandy]

Here's a pic of the bottom with sidelights. My youngest took a look at it while helping me redo the light stands and said 'that should fill in fine with micro balloons or something like that. That makes me smile, we haven't built a board together in years and he still remembers what goes where.  He also said he'd come help glass it which is another batch of awesome.

[TallDude]

Before you add weight with a bunch of Cabosil filler, try this. Nice blend BTW.....

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,19994.msg196691.html#msg196691

[jrandy]

Thanks TD, there are some spots that should iron out nicely.

I talked with the artist last night. It looks like pre-glass artwork will be the course of action. This may mean I will be glassing this at a remote location...

I still need to trim the tail 1.5" to make 12'-6" and give it its final shape. Then it's sand, fill, sand, primer.

***Would there be drawbacks to pre-installing all the fittings (handle, boxes, vents, leash plugs) and the carbon fiber deck patch (direct to EPS) before primer and the artwork?***

If those features are present, the artist will 'flow' around them rather than me routing through the artwork later, plus I can line them up under familiar conditions and do any rework easier.

Thanks for the input, J

[jrandy]

Adding picture of features I am thinking to place pre-artwork and pre-glass. Also thinking about HD foam around the plastic pieces as well. -J

[Biggreen]

Man that really looks good, jrandy. Looks like all your homework paid off. Can't wait to see it glassed.

[lucabrasi]

Yep. Very, very nice.

[TallDude]

HD inserts or cassettes at boxes handles and plugs are a good idea  especially with 1# EPS. If the artist is painting the foam directly,  I would put the HD foam inserts in first,  then paint,  glass and rout in before hot.

[jrandy]

Thanks Guys.

I had one of 'those' weekends in the shop.

Started out working on a paddle, that went fine. Then I made something for the neighbor that went OK too. Then the board's  tail got trimmed and chamfered, and that actually turned out pretty good. Then I addressed the recess on the board. After reviewing notes here and some dims on the internet, I decided to move the recess 2" towards the nose and the process get rid of my mess-up and glue-up from the last time.

In my head is was going to be awesome. I would make 1/8 inch deep steps at a 1/4 inch decreasing radius from the tail to allow me to fill and smooth the cove better than it was before. So I cobbled up a 8 foot long router jig out of scraps, kind of looking like a prop from a movie where the villain is going to slice the hero in half with a slowly descending pendulum.

All was good until I started cutting. I did not set my router to the correct depth and my 2:1 run to rise transition with 1/8" steps quickly became 1:1 with 1/4" steps, much to my consternation.  I ended up routing the steps off and I am back to filling in the transition with fresh angled foam. I was never intending on that part of the board being visible (planning to cover/bury in carbon) but was so looking forward to the rework going as planned.

One of these days I'd like to get through a board and have the ding repair happen AFTER it's finished.

-J

[Biggreen]

I'm going to be the first to thank you, jrandy. The day I have everything go smoothly I'm going to start looking over my shoulder for the lightning bolt. And I'm sure we could all fill a thread as long or longer than the "hot chicks" one with mistakes we've made. Goober or otherwise. And if that thread does materialize, I'll easily lead and stay ahead in the goober category. I'll bet your board is going to look great. Carry on!

[jrandy]

Good stuff Biggreen, thanks!

I decided to put a little vitamin 'CNC' into the deck repair. Enclosing pictures of the router jig that got me in trouble (OK I got me in trouble, the jig worked fine, operator mental error...) and the CNC rig making the patches. I could have cut a straight piece and bent it, but I wanted to puzzle out the curved 3D and get some time in on the mill before its next project later this week.

Artist and I have a date set in a couple weeks to paint and glass the board. Work is picking up too so I'll be busy up until then. The week off to travel, paint, and glass should be fun, and the board work left before the trip should be manageable during the evenings before the trip. -J

[jrandy]

I got the cowling pieces glued in today and roughed enough that I don't catch myself on them.

I have been thinking about HD foam around the plugs and boxes. I have a odd piece of Divinycell that's about a 1/2 thick x 10 x 30" with the grid holes every inch. Would this be good to used if I layered it to 1" or 1.5" with epoxy and then made the inserts? I do not have good access to tow foam and rail bones.

The board is starting to show some dents from being used too often as a workbench. I'll be giving Talldude's ironing trick a go and what doesn't pop out will get filled.

I am planning on epoxy+balloons to fill under the deck pad and down the stringer line. The rest will filled with spackle.

If all goes well, the board should be on the water in about two weeks. -J

[TallDude]

I have pieces of 1/2" Divinycell that I glue together to make 1" thick inserts. When I rout out the boxes there is still a thin layer of Divinycell left in the bottom. That will work. I may be wrong, but I think of micro balloons as a thinner, and Cabocell as a filler. At least that's what I was taught.