The Smokin' Molokai Race Report

[covesurfer]

While it was still fresh in my mind, I wrote an article about our latest channel crossing experience. It's not a rundown of the race as a whole, just my own experience. If you're contemplating trying a channel crossing, it might give some insight.

April 18, 2015 Maui to Molokai Channel Crossing Race
April 26, 2015 at 2:57pm
Last Saturday, April 18, three of us, myself and friends Shep (Southbay) and Kathy (two of the best paddle partners you could ask for) paddled our downwind stand-up paddle boards the 27 miles across the Pailolo Channel from Maui to Molokai in the Maui Paddling Hui's annual Maui to Molokai Race. For all of us, this was our third time crossing the channel. Just one year earlier, Kathy and I were two greenhorns in a group of 6 that Jeremy Riggs led from Maui to Molokai in this same race. Like this April, on our first run we had smokin' conditions. Then, in July, Shep, Kathy and I paddled across once again, that time with no guide to help us navigate our way across the channel. Every time across you learn more. But that first crossing is almost always the most daunting.

Crossing open-ocean, Hawaiian channels is not something to be taken lightly, although, somewhat surprisingly, people do jump into these kinds of events and luck out. But for most, crossing a channel is something that requires not only physical training for the conditions and distance, but fairly involved logistical preparation. You are going to be on your feet for at least three and a half hours, surfing swells, balancing, and transmitting all of your energy from the paddle blade through your arms, trunk, legs and feet. It is really similar to the kind of exertion involved in running a marathon but in a channel crossing, EVERYTHING is moving; it is a totally dynamic environment that requires complete physical and mental focus to navigate. Physical preparation is essential because if you cramp up or bonk, or your gear has a failure, it is going to be exponentially more difficult to finish. You might even need rescue.

In getting ready for a channel crossing race, you typically decide you're going to do it well in advance, put in the hours paddling, doing downwinders whenever conditions allow and cross-training for as long as possible to develop the necessary fitness and skills to deal with whatever the ocean might throw at you. In addition, you typically organize your logistics at least a couple of weeks out.

This year, downwind season came late. February was terrible for wind until near the very end of the month. Conditions improved in March and we paddled more than 12 downwinders that month. Then, things got weird for a week or so before coming back strong in April. The good conditions in April actually allowed us to get some good base training in with excellent wind and swell conditions. Even though I would have liked to have had about twice the mileage/time in, the great conditions in April, together with a huge forecast for the race day (winds 30+ mph and 11 to 15 foot seas) cemented that I would do the race. But, I didn't make that decision, nor did Shep or Kathy, until just a couple of days beforehand!

The race was on Saturday and the three of us decided to sign up on the preceding Wednesday. As we filled out our entries, we still did not have our boat lined up. I had tentatively discussed the race with a boat captain, whose name I got from one of the race organizers at registration. Your boat not only provides a margin of safety in the open ocean should something serious go wrong, it also takes your dry things to the finish line, and transports your expensive gear back to Maui, post-event. It's a full day commitment for the boat and captain, plus maybe some crew. Booking at the last minute is not the best plan. But, that's what we did, getting everything lined up on Thursday for Saturday's race.

As forecast, Saturday dawned clear and windy.  My wife Marcia had generously agreed to drive the three of us up to the start on the northwest tip of Maui, at DT Fleming Beach Park. When we got to the start, it was clear that conditions were going to be big and challenging. The course direction is WNW from Maui and winds were strong NNE. This meant that we were going to have to work our way to the right (north) with the wind coming at us pretty hard from our right sides. Once you are far enough into the race course, and, if you have worked your way far enough north, you can generally turn more westerly and more downwind. By the time you hit mile 14, at the top of the Kamalo Channel, everything should be lined up well enough for an incredible, screaming downwind run to the finish, 13 miles down the coast of Molokai. This is the most fun part of the course and is one of the world's best downwind runs. But, you have to have the energy to take advantage of the great conditions on this portion of the course. Managing your output for the first 13 miles is critical so that you have something left for the last 14 miles.

We arrived at the start nice and early, signed in, paddled our gear out to our escort boat and touched base with our captain. With the big conditions, he was going to follow the slowest one in our group as going back and forth, trying to track three paddlers in the big wind and swell conditions would be too much. I figured he'd probably be following me and I turned out to be right on that one.

As we paddled out to the start and then got underway, it was clear that the initial leg north towards Molokai was going to be tough going with so much north in the wind. It was only 9:30 in the morning but the wind was already in the mid-20's and building. Best plan was to get as far towards Molokai as we could, early in the race, then turn down and surf to the finish as the wind and swell continued to build.

We were barely out of the gate when I had my first of maybe 15 to 20 falls. There was a consistent swell punctuated by large rogue waves that came from a very northerly angle. By the time we were 4 or 5 miles out into the channel, it was already getting really big. Twelve foot faces were common and some of them would randomly break, with three feet of frothing white water ready to take you right off your feet and roll you like a doll in shorepound. I got that treatment, which I dubbed the 'bitch slap', at least 3 or 4 times over the 12 or so miles while working my way north toward Molokai.

Shep and Kathy had very quickly gotten about 1/2 mile out front of me. They didn't seem to be continuing to pull away but I was still the last one of our little group. Our escort boat stayed behind me. Time to get busy focusing on staying on my feet, maximizing my glides and navigating toward the little projection on Molokai that marks the beginning of the really fun portion of the race, the approximately 14 miles of the Kamalo Channel.

I have to mention how the mental games in a race like this begin almost immediately. There is so much to think about in addition to what's right in front of you. You don't want to overdo your efforts too early in the game, or you'll have nothing left for the latter half of the race, which is where you can make tremendous time, gliding and surfing.

Every time you fall, your confidence sags, you wonder if you have what it takes to get across the channel and each time you have to check yourself to make sure you're ok and that you didn't hurt anything or get a little cut that would trail blood into the water. Getting back on the board and standing back up in pitching, heaving sea conditions is exhausting and difficult. Every fall is a setback, you are wasting energy and time. It is critical that you have the mental toughness and confidence to get back on the board, stand back up and charge. You have to believe that you can do it. This is where the mental aspect of training in difficult conditions can help you.

The entire way across the Pailolo Channel was a mental and physical struggle. As we neared the Kamalo buoy, I began to get closer to Shep and Kathy up ahead. They were going inside the buoy, too close to Molokai. I realized that I could finally turn down wind. Just before, I had looked at my watch and wondered if I would even make the 5 hour finish cut-off, let alone break 4 hours as I'd hoped. Then, when I realized that we were already at the buoy and we were just past 2 and a half hours, I got a new surge of confidence and adrenaline. Instead of clawing to the right, getting nailed by huge swells, I could now turn downwind, start surfing the swell, make up tons of time and actually not paddle as hard.

Looking at my Garmin data, after the race, it's pretty obvious when things started improving. All of sudden, I was flying, hitting 9, 10 and 12 mph, surfing right and left at will on my F-16, which excels in the conditions we had. Wind was super strong, gusting to around 40 mph, blowing the tops of the waves off into spindrift. But the swells lined up beautifully, with smooth faces, huge troughs and just unbelievable amounts of energy all pushing you towards the finish line. In the process of lining myself up for the finish and concentrating on surfing, I lost all sight of Shep and Kathy. I knew they were not too far but I knew that they were smoking along just as well if not better than I was. I'd see them after the finish. It's a great feeling when you are surfing so much that your legs are screaming at you. Well, scream on, we gotta burn some time!

Although everything seemed to greatly improve, the wind was still very much out of the north, pushing towards the Kalohi Channel and Lana'i. You had to pay attention and surf right to stay on your line, parallel to the Molokai coastline. As the pier where the finish line was located started to become more visible, I concentrated on surfing as many glides as possible and staying on my line. I was well on my way to breaking 4 hours. Then, about a mile and a half or so from the finish, I realized that I'd gone too far inside. The wind was lighter and the water had quickly shallowed up. I was over the reef and would have to work left to get outside of the finish buoy. Even though you are pretty exhausted after 24 miles, you just do what has to be done, but at this point, it no longer matters if you're saving your energy. You can burn the rest of your matches, you're almost there. After what was probably 10 to 15 minutes of struggling left and going painfully slow, I finally was on line to get around the buoy. My mistake going too far right had cost me probably 5 or 6 minutes but I could still break the 4 hour mark.

When you round the final buoy, you are downwind from the finish line near the pier. With the wind gusting over 30, the struggle back up wind to the finish line was brutal. It felt like I would never get there. And, I was keenly aware that the clock was ticking away on my under 4 hour goal.

At 3:57(!), I scratched across the finish line. I was done! What a great feeling. Shep and Kathy had finished about 11 or 12 minutes ahead of me. Everyone that you see who has battled their way across the channel in the conditions, whether on a standup board or in an outrigger, faster or slower, shares a knowing look and bond of accomplishment. The endorphins are flowing through everybody! Although I have spent the last week recovering from the race, I am already looking forward to the next channel race to Molokai this July. There is truly nothing like the adventure and challenge of an inter-island crossing under your own paddle power.

[starman]

Nice job on the story and the race! I have tons of respect for anyone paddling across that Pailolo channel. The water is dark, deep and the swells can be triple overhead. Easier said then done. Again, congratulations on the accomplishment.

[Off-Shore]

Cove. Great write up. It's one of my ambitions to do that race one day, and reading your first hand account makes me realize I have a long way to go to get mentally and physically in shape. I'd be interested to know what and how frequently you juiced up with liquids / solids before and during the race.

[Muskoka SUP]

Excellent write up Cove.  Thanks for taking the time to share your adventure.  I have nothing but total respect and admiration...

David S.

[covesurfer]

Glad you guys liked the read. It was an epic adventure and I'm so fortunate to get to do this stuff.

If you want to do a channel crossing, you can. Add adequate prep time, travel time and budget. Coming from somewhere far away makes it more difficult. That said, focusing on a race venue makes it easier as the resources seem to be more accessible - the boat support and the safety provided by the race organizers as well as the framework and scheduling of an event to help you focus and organize. You still need to work out your own escort but the boats and captains make themselves available during the races. The escort boats can be expensive so if you can split one boat with a few friends, it can help a lot with the costs.

Off-Shore, I was stressing about the hydration and energy issues. Previous two crossings were both less than optimal. On my first, I took two water packs, a 50 oz and a 70 oz. The 70 oz pack leaked all it's water out so I did the whole 27 mi on 50 oz. That was brutal. It not only hurts your race, it also sabotages your recovery. Way too much stress on the body to run out of water during a long race effort.

Second crossing, I took a single 70 oz pack and it was just enough but I had meant to drink a 32 oz box of coconut water prior to the race for the potassium/hydration and I was so caught up in the excitement that I forgot it. Also, in that race and the first one I did, I just took a couple power bars. I never could manage to eat them while under way. I think I grabbed a bite or two but for me anyway, it was not the right choice for fuel.

This time, I was determined to figure things out better. I used a 50 oz waist pack and mixed a couple of Hammer powder products for electrolyte and energy replacement. On my back, I carried a 70 oz pack with just plain water. I remembered to pound my 32 oz of coconut water on the drive up to the start as well. All that worked out really well. I started drinking the electrolyte/energy mix from tthe waist pack about 45 minutes in and tried to take it regularly, at least every 20 minutes or so. I don't really like that stuff but it worked well. It was so nice to have the water to wash it all down with. Lastly, I carried a bunch of Hammer Gels but I never needed them. Best part was being able to get everything I needed from the Camelbaks while I was paddling. I never had to stop or interrupt to get food or water, it was right there in the two hoses. I finished the race with about half of my water still untouched. I only had about 10 oz of the evil electrolyte/energy replacement mixture though.

I finished this crossing feeling better and less depleted than the other two, and I trained less and wasn't as fit as I would have liked. But the hydration, nutrition and electrolyte replacement made a real difference. I will try the same program in July only I'm hoping to be in better shape for that one. When I write this down, all this seems sort of simple and obvious but it's definitely been a trial and error process.

[stoneaxe]

Great story! Something I've always wanted to do but realistically I think its beyond where my skills will ever be.

[Off-Shore]

This time, I was determined to figure things out better. I used a 50 oz waist pack and mixed a couple of Hammer powder products for electrolyte and energy replacement. On my back, I carried a 70 oz pack with just plain water. I remembered to pound my 32 oz of coconut water on the drive up to the start as well. All that worked out really well. I started drinking the electrolyte/energy mix from tthe waist pack about 45 minutes in and tried to take it regularly, at least every 20 minutes or so. I don't really like that stuff but it worked well. It was so nice to have the water to wash it all down with. Lastly, I carried a bunch of Hammer Gels but I never needed them. Best part was being able to get everything I needed from the Camelbaks while I was paddling. I never had to stop or interrupt to get food or water, it was right there in the two hoses. I finished the race with about half of my water still untouched. I only had about 10 oz of the evil electrolyte/energy replacement mixture though.

I finished this crossing feeling better and less depleted than the other two, and I trained less and wasn't as fit as I would have liked. But the hydration, nutrition and electrolyte replacement made a real difference. I will try the same program in July only I'm hoping to be in better shape for that one. When I write this down, all this seems sort of simple and obvious but it's definitely been a trial and error process.

Cove. That is good to read. I find on 4+ hour ocean paddles I hit the wall around 3 hours, despite taking on enough fluid before and during. I tend to carry water and gel packs in a CamelBak and not pre-mix. I also drink 0.75L /25 oz of water with electrolyte 15 mins before starting out and try to hydrate as much as possible in the 24 hours before anything longer than a 2 hour paddle. When I hit the wall it is amazing how quickly my body shuts down, and for me at that point, a gel pack does not seem to work. I have however found a power / energy bar works really well or any food for that matter at that point. Something I'd have to figure out how to manage if I ever get out to do the M2M.

Maybe best to start out in a relay team...

[covesurfer]

I did Molokai to Oahu last year as one of three guys on a relay team. It's a good way to experience what it's like paddling far off-shore. You have a whole different set of challenges to deal with however: First, the logistics are more complex as you're coordinating everything with more people. For us, we had fairly good sized seas and being on the boat between legs was difficult. I got pretty nauseous. Transitions are wild, you feel like you are insane jumping off a perfectly good boat out in the middle of a channel.

Paddling your legs when you're slightly sea-sick is tough. And, sometimes, you want to keep going but your turn is over. Guys that fish a lot out there will tell you all kind of stories about BIG predators coming up out of the deep blue like underwater aircraft. Even when you are relaxed about that risk, it's still in your head out there. Nevertheless, it IS a great way to do a channel crossing for the first time. 

I found it really hard to eat solid food while trying to keep paddling. I'd never mixed stuff in a water pack before but the steady input of energy really helped. I'm a young geezer at 57 and a half but I have to say, it's 10 days out from race day and I'm still feeling the effects of the effort. Full recovery seems very elusive right now.

[Blue crab]

Thanks for writing this up Cove. Sounds tremendous. Hope to get this done in the next 1-2 years.

[Off-Shore]

Cove, I hadn't thought about the sea sickness of being on the boat, or the insanity of jumping off it, but that makes sense. Nor the creatures of the deep for that matter, despite having similar threats where we paddle.. But it obviously all adds up to one helluva experience. Thanks again for your comments. And rest up well. If you can do it at 57.5, then with enough training and prep, I surely can too, being 4.5 years behind you.

[SUPJorge]

Thanks for the write-up, Cove, and good job on the crossing. This is on my list.