Author Topic: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions  (Read 12868 times)

sailwave

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Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« on: March 04, 2015, 10:15:23 AM »
Weekend warrior here who has to take what he can get. I am comfortable in just about any smooth surf conditions but I have been humbled with stability/falling on my 9' x 29" Starboard Pro in choppy conditions off of Ocean Beach San Francisco lately. Just getting to a standing position is tough at times. My old 9' x 30" Starboard Converse is dramatically more stable in chop but not fast enough nor maneuverable enough in large surf ( for me at least) and much less fun in general. Any tips for getting up and staying up in choppy ocean conditions on narrower less stable boards?
185 lb, 5' 10"
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Bean

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2015, 10:35:08 AM »
Here are the three things that helped me the most: Narrow my offset stance, bend my knees more, and use a shorter paddle.

PDLSFR

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2015, 10:46:07 AM »
Practice, Practice, Practice in every possible condition as often as possible.
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Subber

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2015, 11:08:42 AM »
Yup, and keep the tip of the paddle in the water as much as possible
when not on the wave.
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PonoBill

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2015, 11:12:10 AM »
You asked about technique, so this isn't exactly what you're asking for, but I don't think adding an inch (or more) of width necessarily translates to a slower and less fun board. I continue to be astonished at what my 10'4" X34 Foote board will do. And it's the largest board I surf by about a foot in length and two to five inches in width. I'd find a dealer who would let me demo a bunch of boards to find something that's a better compromise, or find a shaper who will listen to your concerns, look at the boards you've been riding, and come up with a custom solution that works better for you.

Looking at that board I see instability in every inch. Not much volume in the nose or tail, and the tail is a pin, so there's no help with roll there. The outline has maximum width about in the center, so there's no righting (secondary) stability forward of your feet. You have to be in the sweet spot all the time. Full single concave for the entire length adds a little righting moment to the rails, but works against pitch stability in the nose and tail, I bet you're falling off to the front and back when you try to get up.  Plus, it's got to be a pumper, concave isn't fast when you're just riding passively, you have to bounce on the thing to accelerate. I'm sure Zane would dig it, and our friend Cardiff would consider it a tanker, but I couldn't stand on it, and I surf boards as short or shorter with an inch or two more width (and I weigh 235).

Falling isn't surfing, and it certainly isn't fun. You might come back to that board on days when it suits, but if you're going to spend a big part of your time on the water it has to be enjoyable.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2015, 11:27:24 AM by PonoBill »
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SUPcheat

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2015, 11:17:56 AM »
Ocean Beach always looks turbulent when I have seen it, a balance crucible for sure.  Of course, what is your height/weight etc.

If you are over 180 or so, I think 29" is getting into the Flying Wallenda balance range in a place like that.
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sailwave

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2015, 11:45:13 AM »
Ocean Beach always looks turbulent when I have seen it, a balance crucible for sure.  Of course, what is your height/weight etc.

If you are over 180 or so, I think 29" is getting into the Flying Wallenda balance range in a place like that.

I am 180 lbs naked and 5' 11". I need to do research on " Flying Wallenda", sounds like it could be hilarious!
185 lb, 5' 10"
Starboard 9' Pro  (windsup option)
Mistral Pacifico Wave 11' (windsup option)
Starboard 8'5" Pocket Rocket (windsup option)
Naish Hover Crossover 7'4" (windfoil, wingfoil, SUP foil, SUP)

sailwave

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2015, 11:54:50 AM »
OK, narrow feet and very bent knees are not what I am doing now. Good tips to try. My surf paddle is 2-3 inches shorter and 10% less area than my standard flat water power paddle allready.  After that sounds like I better go to a wider board to navigate OB chop.  Thanks for confirmation that I do have a rather unstable board for someone who is far from pro.
185 lb, 5' 10"
Starboard 9' Pro  (windsup option)
Mistral Pacifico Wave 11' (windsup option)
Starboard 8'5" Pocket Rocket (windsup option)
Naish Hover Crossover 7'4" (windfoil, wingfoil, SUP foil, SUP)

breakbad

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2015, 11:56:54 AM »
Take more breaks, stay hydrated. Helps to just sit and float a few minutes. Muscle fatigue is what gets ya.

sailwave

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2015, 11:59:53 AM »
Take more breaks, stay hydrated. Helps to just sit and float a few minutes. Muscle fatigue is what gets ya.

Yes, I do notice fatigue and falling increases there on. I should rest more.
185 lb, 5' 10"
Starboard 9' Pro  (windsup option)
Mistral Pacifico Wave 11' (windsup option)
Starboard 8'5" Pocket Rocket (windsup option)
Naish Hover Crossover 7'4" (windfoil, wingfoil, SUP foil, SUP)

SUPJorge

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2015, 12:25:07 PM »
Bend your knees, bend your knees more, bend them even more ... and narrow your offset stance and use a shorter paddle.
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surfercook

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2015, 12:36:08 PM »
I like my 9'11" PSH Ripper when it's choppy. Thing's a boat and still maneuvers well.

http://youtu.be/kmO4AGqGkzU
« Last Edit: March 04, 2015, 12:49:39 PM by surfercook »
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JayInSoCal

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2015, 12:38:30 PM »
Everything mentioned + keep your eyes on the horizon.  Don't look at chop as it's coming for you.  Your body will go where your eyes look, if you look down, you're probably going to go for a swim.   
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supsurf-tw

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2015, 12:59:41 PM »
Board stability is more than length and width as pointed out above. I'd save your tippy board for the glassy days until you're more stable.

As far as technique in chop, it comes down to just getting out there and experimenting. Many times just moving forward on the board an inch or 2 can really help. Slightly staggered, narrower stance also.

Practice on land standing on 1 foot with your eyes closed
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Bean

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Re: Technique tips for choppy surf conditions
« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2015, 01:10:45 PM »
SC, the guy standing in front of your cam at 1:22, and your reaction out in the lineup, is hilarious!

 


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