More Humble Pie - 20 years since I’ve been that scared

[SUPcheat]

Impressive story.  I am most afraid of beach break going out and coming in, having had the slam and dunk experience grom style a few times to the great entertainment of the beach loungers.

I think if I saw beach break that is too ferocious, I would wait it out a while or maybe just go home rather than get caught up in it. 

[madmax]

Maaaaan.  I know what it's like that close to shore and being in the wringer and helpless.  Glad you're ok.

[outcast]

Sorry for the pounding Rick....

At high tide, That first/last 3 feet is the toughest....For the Maui guys, far worse than Big Beach Makena        Mostly cause the shorter period gives no let-up...the drop off and rip really "suck"

I pretty much always try to unleash for that last 3 feet, and do as you did coming in off/over the back and then run like hell with a hand-held leash ....Looks clumsy-stupid, as I always get tugged by the board for one or two, but at least I'm out of the dump-truck and on dry sand.    I think it's safer, and I've spear-chucked a paddle once cause that thing is another liability.   

Getting in, it's the "Hatteras toss" of throwing the board over the top and swimming to it.....but the Ocean always
finds a way to restore humility

I'm not sure that the tail is an easy fix though ....sorry, but it beats a vertebrae

[lopezwill]

Sorry to hear about your sup torture.  The bright side is that you made it back.  Love your stories, stoke and reviews. 

HRS construction?  Maybe a new STC board review in the near future

[coldsup]

You don't half enjoy an adventure STC.....respect!

[ron.c]

Throughout my life. I've sought out older and wiser men to fill in some father figure gap.  When it comes to our shared passion, you are part of my twisted puzzle.

Your battle with the water, and temperature, sent a real humbling message to me.

RC

[Off-Shore]

STC - That is indeed a humbling story, yet a great one to share. I've been up and down the East coast and experienced the shore break + suck / rip first hand. But thankfully it has been small, in the summer, and never with a board attached to my leg. I'm glad you made it back in one piece.

[SpaceCoastPaul]

it sounds like Saturday was a challenging  day all around. Lots of good waves here in SC, but short period a and quite a challenge if you chose to work the beach break. Still a great day when you can be in mother ocean in January.

[Wetstuff]

Cool that you paddled back out.  When a horse throws you ..you never put him in the barn letting him think he's now the boss.

I find the tail grip handy getting in but when getting rolled and mugged by shore pound without holding onto the board - it's disarmingly scary because the board is close enough to slap you also.  I also would not unleash - I donated one kiteboard the to Atlantic. One offering is enough,



Jim 

[breakbad]

Yes, + respect for paddling back out. I got caught inside, for this first time (in big stuff) in my novice career, on Friday and didn't make it back out. Bailed on the first wave, but got pushed just far enough inside for the next few 10 to 12 footers to clean me up. I've never been ejected back out of the ocean for a ride on top of the white wash. I blew my wad with all my excitement and rapid, panic'd breathing. I knew I could make it back out, but the choppy conditions tipped the scale to much on risk vs reward. Now that my cherry is popped, and I know, first hand, what being 'caught inside' means, hopefully next time I can calm my breathing and heart rate. It was freaky, even with a PFD on my person.

[SUP Leave]

Great post.

Out here in the PAC NW we know all too well about short period beach break.

So many times I have spent almost my entire session's energy trying to get outside. Especially early in the year when I am not as conditioned to the action and the waves.

It is really hard on a SUP. If it has any size and the period is less than 6 seconds, I have given up in favor of a prone board. I figure if it takes more than 10 minutes to get back out to the break after a wave, it is not worth SUP surfing. The beauty of SUP is getting back out again fast to get another wave, once that is not possible I change equipment. (Plus, I am such a glutton I always ride to far in).

To comment on the fishermen, yeah the better fishermen understand that the best surf fishing is where we want to catch the rip out to the waves. I'd rather take a pounding then get a 1/0 in my arm though.