Author Topic: The surf gods smiled  (Read 2795 times)

PonoBill

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The surf gods smiled
« on: December 22, 2014, 03:24:05 PM »
on us this morning at Kanaha. Set waves to 1.5 OH, clean, and the wave angle was perfect for the rights. No wind to spek of until about 11:00. It6's still not blowing hard, but the swell came down a bit and the wind is frisky, so maybe an evening session. Caught a lot of really nice waves and got good rides in spite of a hefty crowd. Also got pounded a few times, once big enough to rip the middle out of my stomp handle. My head is so full of water it feels like it weighs fifty pounds.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

covesurfer

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2014, 05:14:44 PM »
I came down after I dropped Abbey at the airport but the wind was already on it. HM was in, talking to somebody on the beach and R2 said you were still out. It looks like it's dropped and there's just enough wind to ruin anything that might be left over.

I did manage to get a solid 3 hours at Kahaha yesterday morning. Small kine waves, biggest were chest to shoulder at lower-lower and some head high+ stuff at the peak but patience was required. No crowd, no wind and lots of fun.  I hated to come in but I was starving and Abbey had gone in an hour before me. I can feel the session in my arms and back today, which is good, because I haven't done squat today.  :(

PonoBill

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2014, 07:14:25 PM »
Eeewwwh gross. Diane isn't feeling well, crashed on the couch. I bent over to say something to her, gave a little cough and filled my mouth with "sea water". Usually it comes out my nose, never had that happen before. Out the nose is much better.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

stoneaxe

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2014, 07:31:25 PM »
Sigh...... >:( and I'm going nucking futs!!!
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

PDLSFR

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2014, 05:08:19 AM »
Bob we may have some Surf on Friday in Newport, good time to test out all those goodies from Santa !!
Infinity RNB 8'2
Ron House 9'7
Ron House 10'7
Infinity New Deal 10'
Custom Infinity New Deal 10'
VEC 11'
Focus Bluefin 14'

stoneaxe

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2014, 08:21:43 AM »
Unfortunately I'm still on the injured list.... >:(
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

Board Stiff

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2014, 06:55:16 PM »
Looks like Santa will deliver some perfect conditions for an inland downwinder tomorrow in NH. Rain ends by noon,  then 50 degree air with 20 mph winds gusting to 40 mph straight out of the west. This probably sounds like a lump of coal in the stocking to you guys in Hawaii,  but it's the best conditions we've had here all year! :-)

PonoBill

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2014, 08:25:10 PM »
It's been an interesting week so far. Today was a bit out of control. The guys that usually congregate on the outer reefs (Like Chris P. and Junya) were playing around in the harbor. It was a bit out of control out theyah as they might say in Mass. Not only the swell size but the current. I paddled out to the mouth of the harbor just to have a look around, and nearly got taken away--no idea to where. All I could do to get back in. Very spooky.



The Christmas swell looks awesome. And we might have a Biathalon--surf in the morning, Downwinder in the afternoon. I'll be testing the outer bounds of Diane's tolerance, but I figure I can call a southside downwinder a "beach day".
« Last Edit: December 24, 2014, 08:31:42 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

SuppaTime

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Re: The surf gods smiled
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2014, 09:19:54 PM »
I look at this puppy every morning 6'ish. It is 200 miles NW of Oahu, so 6-8 hours travel time for swell to reach Maui. But I find it a good predictor of height. But not direction. I get that from NOAA. Wind swell at the buoy is ~6 ft. So anything above that has promise. I personally like a swell of 10-13' at the buoy, which is OH at Kanaha. Bigger than that is well, bigger.

Slippahs:
Locals size 13
Reefs size 13
None size 13

 


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