Author Topic: Boxing the Compass  (Read 1565 times)

PonoBill

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Boxing the Compass
« on: November 24, 2014, 04:17:36 PM »
Fun surf this morning, the wind was wild though. Started off from the southwest at dawn. Overhead sets, some double overhead, with varying amounts of wind blowing up the face. I got into a few good ones, got some good rides. Then I got caught inside and my leash pulled off my leg. The board stayed reasonably close, so I ditched my paddle and sprinted for it. It got hit by a wave just before I reached it, but didn't go much further, so I kept sprinting and caught it. The calf cuff had pulled right off my leg. I looked it over and saw the Velcro was worn. I picked some fluff out of it, put it on extra careful, and kept surfing. Got a couple more nice waves, but then I got caught inside again, and bam--the cuff pulled off. This time the board headed for the lagoon. So I tied my paddle to my boardshorts and started the long swim. Finally got it. A longboarder generously grabbed it and held it for me. Still a long swim, but I was pleased to find I was up for it. Last year my shoulder made long swims difficult.

I went in to change out the leash, but it was almost ten, I'd been out for three hours. I called it a day. Put my board on the car and then thought "What the hell am I doing? If I was just getting here and conditions were like this I'd be running to the beach". So I yanked the board off the car, put on a different leash, and headed back out. Good call, The wind dropped and started to shift to the east. Lots of fine waves, lots of fun. Banged rails with Bill Foote--I wanted to go left, he went right, we wound up going right with him practically riding tandem.

The wind died completely--glassy overhead waves. Perfecto. But on the horizon there were dark clouds with a black line in the water under them. I said "I think we've got ten more minutes." I was wrong--it was fifteen. With the wind came a lot of very big, short period waves. I wanted to get one more good wave, so I tried to get out, but no go. The wind kept increasing, and by the time I turned for shore I hardly had to paddle. Made the about fastest run from the reef to the shore in my recollection, like a mini downwinder.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

stoneaxe

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Re: Boxing the Compass
« Reply #1 on: November 24, 2014, 09:08:08 PM »
Glad your having fun bro and that the shoulder is feeling pretty good.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

PonoBill

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Re: Boxing the Compass
« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2014, 09:56:09 PM »
Shoulder feel great. Not full strength, but for the first time in years my shoulders don't hurt.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

headmount

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Re: Boxing the Compass
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2014, 10:50:22 PM »
Shoulder feel great. Not full strength, but for the first time in years my shoulders don't hurt.

Yeah Stony, you shoulda seen him.  Looked like demo derby with Bill Foote.  I was thinking about dropping in, saw those two, added it up and pulled out.  Two Bills on a wave is already too many.  Three woulda been mayhem.  But yes his shoulder looks strong.... for a geezer.

 


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