Author Topic: Repairing delam under the pad  (Read 3420 times)

jd

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Repairing delam under the pad
« on: November 21, 2014, 08:58:31 AM »
Anyone ever repaired a delam that occurred under the pad area.  Board is a standard EPS/Epoxy hand glassed board.

Has anyone ever left it as is and surfed it?  I'm thinking of trying the method that involves drilling some holes and injecting epoxy. 

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2014, 09:28:30 AM »
I've heard people talk about drilling and injecting two-part foam. Seems likely to work, the stuff is super sticky. Never seen it done. I've just kept surfing them 'till they bust, which they do.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

latesupr

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2014, 03:18:30 PM »
I just fixed one and it was a mess. There were two areas on the deck one on the top and one closer to the tail. None of the repair shops would touch it so I did it myself.

I used a stiff putty knife and acetone to remove the deck pad. It took 2 to 3 hours to remove and clean the area. The top area I cut around the delammed area but leaving it still attached on one side. So it flapped open. I used a two part epoxy to glue it back. Then placed weight on the area to hold it in place. I glassed over the whole area with two sheets of fiberglass after sanding. That was not the way to do it.

Fiberglass Hawaii recommended cutting out the delammed area then using the 2 to 1 epoxy with qcel to fill in the area. Sand then glass over the area with two layers of fiberglass. That was the better way.


kayadogg

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2014, 05:07:10 PM »
I just had a good sized delam fixed on a board. Handle was leaking unknowingly and eventually the delam happened after being in the sun one day. I removed the pad and cut away most of the standing area, it peeled off easily since it wasn't bonded to the foam anymore. I let it dry out for about a week until the stringer no longer showed dampness. Brought it to a local guy to do the repair. Told him to either remove the handle or glass right over it. Also told him to add extra layers of cloth, I didn't care about adding weight since this was a small board as it was and very light to begin with. He did a great job. It's a really solid repair. He tried to paint match but I told him not to. Slapped a new pad on it and it's been back in action. It does kinda suck on a long walk with no handle but I can deal with it.

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2014, 06:38:24 PM »
removing the whole area and reglassing is absolutely the way to do it. But it's a lot of work. I doubt anything less would be a permanent repair, but it might work for a while.

Fog, instead of a handle put a couple of stick-on leash plugs on it, one in front, one in back, then add loops of kite line. you stick your paddle through the loops for the best handle ever.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

The Kernel

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2014, 07:31:07 PM »
"...I just had a good sized delam fixed on a board. Handle was leaking unknowingly and eventually the delam happened..."

I've been encountering this on all of my boards.  Any more I am just going to do the repair myself and reinforce the crap out of the area around the handle...maybe something like 4-5 layers of extra glass just so I don't ever have to deal with scraping off the deck pad and doing another fixit job. 
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
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Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2014, 08:08:39 PM »
Handle are like fin boxes, if they aren't one piece, you shouldn't oughta have them. Lots are--they be crap. I've fixed some by glassing over them and shoving the glas down into them, making a tighter, overhung box out of them. Works better anyway.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

jd

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2014, 08:46:02 PM »
Pono,

With the two-part foam, do you know if it is polyurethane or some other type?  I think I might try this first.  I'm going to take the lazy man approach.  If that doesn't work, I turn it into a project and do it the right way.

This board was glassed like shvt IMO, basically feels like a sponge when you squeeze it.  I'd be surprised if it had more than a single 4oz layer of glass, but hey they made it light for the unsuspecting customer.  It's a beater and going to be treated as such.  The handle has a prior history of leaking and is related to one delam, but there are 2 or 3 others as well.  Not bad, but delams all the same.  I'd certainly be pissed if I was the one that purchased it new. 

I'm just wondering if injecting the foam, will it expand too much under the glass or do you put a bunch of weight on it to keep it from popping up more glass?

The Kernel

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2014, 02:20:20 AM »
"...This board was glassed like shvt IMO, basically feels like a sponge when you squeeze it.  I'd be surprised if it had more than a single 4oz layer of glass, but hey they made it light for the unsuspecting customer.  It's a beater and going to be treated as such.  The handle has a prior history of leaking and is related to one delam, but there are 2 or 3 others as well.  Not bad, but delams all the same.  I'd certainly be pissed if I was the one that purchased it new...."

OK JD, I'll be the one to ask: 

What make and model is the board?  I'm guessing I might know who the manufacturer is...

Drumroll................

« Last Edit: November 22, 2014, 02:36:06 AM by The Kernel »
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

The Kernel

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2014, 03:06:07 AM »
Handle are like fin boxes, if they aren't one piece, you shouldn't oughta have them. Lots are--they be crap. I've fixed some by glassing over them and shoving the glas down into them, making a tighter, overhung box out of them. Works better anyway.

Thanks Bill...I was considering doing the same thing, but hadn't thought about the technique of shoving the glass in the handle like that. With your experience noted, now I'm going full bore and stealing your idea for the next time I repair the handle area.
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2014, 08:11:49 AM »
I don't know what the foam is, but it seems fairly nonreactive with other plastics, that is, it doesn't seem to melt them. I've used it on top of EPS before with no issues.

As I've said, I' haven't tried this repair and I see a lot of challenges. the stuff has to be mixed well, and once it's mixed you have a pretty short time to get it into place. If it squeezes out you have a mess. I use it mostly for forming racing seats. You mix it, dump it into a doubled plastic trash bag, tape it to the seat shell and sit in it, letting the foam form around you. If you screw up it gets everywhere, and I'll tell you from direct experience that you don't want it in your hair.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2014, 08:45:35 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

K-541`

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Re: Repairing delam under the pad
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2014, 01:00:35 PM »
Put the two part foam in the fridge  chill it down it will give you a little more working time. Of course have every thing ready to go holes drilled ect. Go to a farm store if one is close by, the extra large syringes work great for injecting the foam. This is really only a temp. fix and you do have to epoxy up all the little holes you drilled.

 


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