Any stickier tape than Gorilla Tape?

[linter]

The great Adding Lead to Make a Lead Sled Board experiment is going great.  I love my heavier new boards -- or at least one of them, ha ha.  Problem is, the Gorilla tape I'm using to tape the lead sheets to the board ain't holding (and I'm creating a one-man environmental-hazard toxic-waste-dump site at my fav surfing spots).  I've lost a piece on top of the board and one piece under.  Anything stickier or better suited to a saltwater environment?

1/ i bought some Sticky Ass tape, which has gotten good reviews, but it doesn't seem even as sticky as the Gorilla stuff.  will test and see.

2/ i made a perimeter of tape about 1" - 2" wide around the lead sheet.  maybe going to 4" or more would be better?

3/ i'm not ready to glass these things on yet.  still experimenting with position and weight.

thanks!

[PonoBill]

Prep the surface more. The Gorilla tape will hold until an edge lifts, and then it will progressively lift off as the edge moves and exposes the glue to water. Sand the area you want to use pretty aggressively--won't hurt the bottom, but it will look skanky on the top. I'd focus on the bottom anyway since the lower the weight is, the more stability it will impart. I'd use 100 grit, but at least 220. Cross-hatched grooves from sanding will greatly increase the surface area available for the tape adhesive to stick to. Then wash with denatured or isopropyl alcohol. Or even a quick wipe with acetone. Warm up the surface and let it dry completely--a hair dryer will work. Then put the tape on while the surface is warm. Work it in good with your fingers, especially the edges. You can even rewarm the tape a little and go over it again. Don't get it too hot, just warm to the touch.

[linter]

Just the help I wanted and needed.  Thanks, bill!

[Off-Shore]

I've used Marine tape from this UK company for repairing kites and spinnakers to put over holes in my hollow board for temporary repair and it is very good. I once had a 1" hole fracture in the nose that filled the board up with water. I drained the board (a SIC F16v3), used this Kite tape to cover the hole and paddled it for 1 month before I got it repaired. Worked a treat... It is also sadly very expensive.. http://www.admiralpsp.co.uk/psp/products/sail-repair-tapes.html#!prettyPhoto. There must be a US equivalent. Once it is on, it is hard to get off..

[Off-Shore]

Here's a pic of the tape over the hole which was on the underside of the board (see pic below). Lasted a month. I only used a damp cloth to rinse the area and then dried it with a hairdryer before placing the tape on.

[Off-Shore]

And this is the underside of the board before I applied the tape showing the damage. It was an impact, so damaged the gel coat, crushed the carbon epoxy and punctured the shell.. Ouch! But applied the tape above and paddled it like this for a month without a single leak reoccurring. It was so good I almost thought about not getting it repaired! 

[linter]

thanks, offshore, i'll look into that type of tape!

bill: here's your next assignment.  i'd like to make the lead sheet removable if at all possible.  i fussed  with the baggie idea, taping it to the board and sliding the sheet into it, but worried if the opening unzipped itself, water would blow in and rip the lead right off.  plus, getting the lead in and out tended to lift the tape up.  there's got to be a way to do it but my brain just can't think of it.  i went through a number of diy duct-tape project sites but saw nothing that's applicable.  have any ideas?

one reason for this is to make it easier to swap one weight for another on the beach, for testing purposes.

[stoneaxe]

I'm surprised to hear the Gorilla tape is coming up. I used some on my board and had a hard time getting it off after a month or so of use.

For one that you can swap weights or add weights I'd only put them on the top. Use some pad material a few inches larger all around than your weights. Peel off the paper of the outer 3" all around and cut a slit big enough to slide the weights into just outside (1/4") of the unpeeled area. make a slight pocket when you stick it down. You should be able to slide the weights into the pocket and still close it with the 1/4" of sticky that is left and because it's not an exposed edge it should (maybe) stay.

[linter]

hey bob: i took your idea and did it my way.  used tape again and for the sleeve, a flat piece of mylar or something like that.  so far, it's worked great.  now if i couldn't only get the handle on this stupid board to stop leaking, maybe i could relax a little. 

[SUP Sports ®]

I thought that you were placing these weights on the deck...seems that placement would have to kinda mess up the H20 flow on the bottom...also, seems hard to get placement exactly right...because, as it stands you have no Z-axis adjustment...the tow-in guys have this concept figured out...

[linter]

  i believe the tow-in guys are trying to accomplishment something different than what i'm after, which is, in the words of Ponobill, "added stability and slower response to sudden input."  i've surfed maybe a dozen times now with lead on the bottom and it has had no noticeable impact on water flow or anything like that (at least not that i'm able to discern).  also, if the Z-axis has been upset, it hasn't upset me.  remember, according to theory, lead out near the rails, as i have it, doesn't effect that particular axis.
  among our group here, i think i am the first to try this little experiment, and i can't believe how well it's worked out.  that said, i wish a better SUPer with a greater ability to conceptualize would give it a go, too, just to get a second opinion.  the thing of it is, until you've tried it, the very idea somehow seems ... wrong.  but if wrong works i'm happy being wrong.
  then again, i hope to one day try jim's 10-6 hammer.  looks very special.  wonder if he'd let me tape 6 lbs of weight to the bottom?

  also, for the first time, on both of my weighted boards, i've gotten closer to the nose than ever before.  within inches.  and i've had that great experience of being on the nose, with the board slowing slow, then (cross!) stepping back and having to hold on for dear life as the thing found trim and took off like a rocket.  man, that was cool!

[stoneaxe]

Stoked for you Erik!