Author Topic: 10-6 Sup build  (Read 15475 times)

55NSup

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10-6 Sup build
« on: November 01, 2014, 02:28:31 AM »
Building 10-6 x 24 sup for my 9 yr boy. He has a Naish Keiko and its great to fool around on and get some wind waves, but worthless for any distance. We have mostly flat water here.
Inspired by ( ripping off) new Naish bottom design.

Will laminate with 100mm wide UD CF on each side, then 200g + 165g glass top and bottom, with overlapp on rails.
Adding layer in standing area.
Sealing with epoxy glass ballon mix this time, not latex mix.
Will hand layup CF to get some rigidity in the blank, then v-bag the rest, one Side at a time.


Off-Shore

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2014, 04:58:02 AM »
Very nice... Can't wait to see the final result! Our 10 year old paddles a 10'6 RedAir MAX Race 26" RSS, and 10'6" is a perfect length. If I really want to test myself, I swap boards with him and paddle it myself.. at 84kgs / 185lbs, it can float me, but staying on board takes a massive amount of leg work and concentration in any sort of chop or swell... and of course he just loves seeing me fall in!
SB 9' x 33' x 4.1" - RPC 9'8" iSUP - SB All-Star 12'6" - Blue Planet Bump Rider 14 - SB Ace 14 x 27 - RedAir 14' Elite Race - SIC Bullet 14v1 TWC - SICMaui F16v3 Custom

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/HksupaHk_SUP_and_Downwinding

55NSup

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2014, 06:49:24 AM »
The Red Paddle Co 10-6 max race looks good. That would have been a better first choice for a kid board. 
I first bought a 12-6 Bark competitor and caught the bug, then a  fanatic allwave 9-2 for us when he was 6 yrs, figuring if he didnt find it fun, then i could use it as a wave board. He caught on and last year picked up the Naish Keiko on sale, it is so much narrower its easier to paddle, but amost no directional tracking. He's is not afraid to be out far  from shore with me, and now paddles around alone  in our local cove, rides small wind waves ( what we Have) and easy downwinding.  Manages about 3 km on the Naish, but come spring I think he will be strong enough for longer or faster sessions.

Heres some more pics of todays work. Debating with myself on how to handle the " chine".
1. Keep it sharp the whole way.
2. Make it softer in the middle of the board,  sharp on nose and tail.
3. A bit softer forward- radius 5mm, about R 20mm mid and sharp towards rear.

Not going to be able to paddle this myself, board is designed for 35-55 kgs. My research says he will be able to use it until 13-14 yrs old.

Have some long business trips in next 2 months , so it will take some time.

55NSup

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2014, 01:33:32 PM »
Cf going on.

55NSup

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2014, 11:17:14 PM »
Back from round the world work trip. Decided to add 3mm of 80kg/m3 deck patch. Have a layer of glass under it. The Eps is soo soft.
Figure the boy is gonna thrash it and wanted to see how much work it is. It was pretty easy.
The Cf on the bottom has already added significant stiffness.
Next step is to add Cf to the deck.  Then test my v-bag before lamination. 

Question: uni directional Cf has perpendicular binding fibers that stick up a lot.  I guess I should sand them down? 

blackeye

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2014, 10:05:43 AM »
Your work looks amazing.

Maybe do a test patch of your two glass layers over a piece of the unidirectional. Then see how badly the perpendicular binding fibres affect the top layer. They may smooth out enough.

Let us know how it works out.

supuk

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2014, 10:38:19 AM »
Back from round the world work trip. Decided to add 3mm of 80kg/m3 deck patch. Have a layer of glass under it. The Eps is soo soft.
Figure the boy is gonna thrash it and wanted to see how much work it is. It was pretty easy.
The Cf on the bottom has already added significant stiffness.
Next step is to add Cf to the deck.  Then test my v-bag before lamination. 

Question: uni directional Cf has perpendicular binding fibers that stick up a lot.  I guess I should sand them down?

Best thing I found was to use some 4oz cloth over the top of the carbon it helps in a number of ways

TallDude

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2014, 04:20:49 PM »
If it's just the little ends of the perpendicular fibers, I would put some masking tape right along the edge and cheese grate them smooth. You don't want to sand into the CF at all. It will ruin the integrity of the CF. The CF has a texture to it, so as Supuk said, you need a sander layer of 2oz or 4 oz glass over it first. Then sand the glass smooth, not the CF.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

PonoBill

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2014, 04:38:10 PM »
Ditto to the above. for any carbon fiber layup I like to wet out the CF on a flat, non-adsorbent surface, squeegee the epoxy on so it's nearly dry, then pick it upand drape it into place. Roll out the CF with a bubble roller, then do the same thing to at least one layer of 4oz glass. then bag it. The vacuum bagging consolidates everything and flattens the surface. the perpendicular support threads in uni adsorb epoxy and lay down well. 
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

55NSup

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2014, 01:39:39 AM »
Thanks for the tips guys.
My plan was to add the Cf before vbag, so the blank would be stiff enough for the vbag and not deform. So there was not plan to vbag Cf. I can see how vbag would consolidate it.
Dont have any 4oz on hand....didnt anticipate that it would be so much work. Propably woukd hsve tsken another route if I knew this.
I dont think glass is going to go down over the rough texture as it is now without vbag. Or pre sanding.
So I have 3 -4alternatives :
1. Carefully sand the Cf. Despite You guys say dont do it.
2. Order some 4 Oz and wait 2 weeks for it, vbag it once for deck, 2nd for bottom, then sand it all down
3. Do same as no. 3 but use 6 Oz I have on hand
4. Micro ballon spackle the Cf and sand lightly.

Leaning towards the fourth option.

TallDude

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2014, 01:06:24 PM »
I don't Vbag yet, so my CF layups are just like yours. You need some glass to get it level. I would just use the 6oz. You're going to sand it down so much it won't matter much as far as weight. I've tried using Cab-o-Sil to help fill the pits in the CF and after a few coats there was still tiny little pits. The glass holds the epoxy in the pits and floats them out. Your final lamination when using 6oz CF, will need to be some glass with a gravity lay-up. Maybe not if you VB, I don't know.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

supuk

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2014, 01:50:29 PM »
Any cloth will be fine just give about a inch over laping the edge of the carbon. Wet the area the carbon is going down on they lay carbon soak well with resin then lay glass and squeegee excess down working from centre to nose and tail. The glass will soak a lot of the exces resin and can be sanded back.

That said the carbon on a 10'6 kids race board is way over kill. For a adult 12'6 race board double 6oz with a good rail lap gives a prity stiff board better than a lot of carbon boards, for a kids 10'6 double 4 would probably be ample. The thickness of a race board a lot of added stiffness on its own.

peterwSUPr

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2014, 03:45:34 PM »
If you are concerned about sanding the edge of the carbon and tearing into the foam, maybe try using a router.  Set the bit depth at something close to zero (or literally zero), and things that stick up locally should get taken down without getting into the flat surface at all.  I've used that technique to shave down hard edges next to foam when making twin tip kiteboards with quite good success, much better than the surform ("cheese grater") which I use for shaping foam.  It's kind of like using a planer on wood, where the blade depth is so small that you can barely see it at all.

Peter

TallDude

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2014, 08:13:48 AM »
Thanks for the tips guys.
My plan was to add the Cf before vbag, so the blank would be stiff enough for the vbag and not deform. So there was not plan to vbag Cf. I can see how vbag would consolidate it.
Dont have any 4oz on hand....didnt anticipate that it would be so much work. Propably woukd hsve tsken another route if I knew this.
I dont think glass is going to go down over the rough texture as it is now without vbag. Or pre sanding.
So I have 3 -4alternatives :
1. Carefully sand the Cf. Despite You guys say dont do it.
2. Order some 4 Oz and wait 2 weeks for it, vbag it once for deck, 2nd for bottom, then sand it all down
3. Do same as no. 3 but use 6 Oz I have on hand
4. Micro ballon spackle the Cf and sand lightly.

Leaning towards the fourth option.
You can carefully sand the CF layer, but only sand the top epoxy. Once you see gray residue in your sanding dust, stop right there. Your into the CF.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

55NSup

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Re: 10-6 Sup build
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2014, 10:19:07 AM »
Thanks for the tips.
I was putting on carbon to make the blank stiff enough to put into vbag and not have blank deform. Not to add final stiffness.
It is really stiff with this 200 g x 100 mm strip udcf.
Next time I will use 25mm wide Cf tape without the perpendicular binding.

 


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