So I think I know why the guy sold me his Nugg...

[Tom]

I,ve heard that lead works better than marine foam.

[JayInSoCal]

That's very helpful, I'll borrow some from Linter. 

[PonoBill]

By marine foam I assume you mean two part foam. Don't do that. If you are going to route it, do it nicely and fit a block of EPS in there. Or rinse it really well with distilled water to get the salt and minerals out, let it dry well, then leave the foam as-is and spackle over it with lightweight spackle. That's a big patch, you're going to want to manage weight. I'd cut out the approprate size pieces of glass--probably one 6oz and two four oz, making each layer progressively bigger with say a 1 inch margin. Sand all the good glass aggressively, tapering the edges out about two inches. Get a big piece of cardboard, larger than your largest patch. Lay the smallest (six oz) on the cardboard and squeegee your epoxy into the glass. Scrape off the excess, wearing latex gloves, lay the patch in. Do the same with each successive patch. Roll the dickens out of it with a bubble buster to get the epoxy well incorporated.

After it sets up, sand smooth and feather the edges, hot coat it, and go play.

[outcast]

I wouldn't get into the foam thing  too much...
Believe it or not, as Pono said spackle will fill most of those voids...and the whole thing will be covered with a pad anyway.

I would much more worry about the glass.  You can't just put a patch on that cutout....the board needs to be unibody which means sanding way back, and having overlap.   ....otherwise...she snaps

I would grind down the glass to near foam  about one inch away from your current edges, and then cut off  the trim, or else you will keep gouging the foam....probably needs at least a 4" overlap onto the good old glass ....and layered per Pono

Your top layer should be 4 oz and is sacrificial... getting sanded away....i dunno if you need hotcoat if it gets a pad

Vac bagging is not that hard especially on that flat stuff

[JayInSoCal]

I did plan to have overlap, but didn't consider up to 4", so I will definitely do that. 

PB, I did mean the 2 part foam.  I guess I can try and clean up what is there, but it is really wet and the damage is deep.  This is all a learning process for me, so out of curiosity what is the issue with the marine foam?  I also considered routing it out and putting in divinycell......better?  worse? 

I really would like to vacuum bag this, and have researched the crap out of vacuum bagging for months, but I cannot find a way to do it that would be economically feasible.  If I don't want to buy an air/vacuum compressor to vacuum bag is there a DIY solution? 

And as far as carbon fiber goes, should I just skip that as an option? 

Not super concerned with weight on this board, biggest concern is that the deck is that it's strong enough to not repeat the mess that caused this. 

Thanks for all the great info!!

[surfcowboy]

You can just patch that with eps if you must, but the lightweight spackle is pretty amazingly light unless you've just got too much to do, then drop in a block like Pono says.

If it's your first job, get a buddy to help or just do it twice like I did.

Every one you do gets better and so all my early jobs were do it  then do another and then go back and do the first one again because my technique has improved.

Pono, on that 4" overlap, do you do the same bevel like you do on a smaller ding, just over the 4" span? If not, how do you ever get it level again, or do you not bother?

My proudest moment recently was learning to sand out a decent dish around a ding so that my glass lays in cleanly but that's for a smaller spot, not a whole structural piece.

[PonoBill]

It's very hard to get a big patch level--so I don't bother. I'm sure there are pros that can pull it off, but I settle for strong, light, and done.

The problem with two part foam is that it's heavy, unevenly dense, and it's really easy to get dips and divots when you sand it. It's just a bitch to shape. I've done it, but I don't recommend it.

[Mungo]

What Bill says...
2 pack PU foam is great for bonding but not that good for filling anything larger than a crack. If you're going to route out the damaged foam you'd be better to replace it with eps. You can get a reasonable finish if you shape in a darkened room and use strategically placed flashlights to highlight any flaws.

[The Kernel]

sup_surf_giant and JayInSoCal:

How have those repairs progressed?

I just ripped part of the pad off one of my boards with a very similar issue of cracking around the handle and am mulling over how far down the rabbit hole I intend to go.....

[JayInSoCal]

I'm still letting mine dry out. I have some car repairs that has been taking up my time for the last couple of weeks, the board repairs are next.  I'll update you with any struggles/progress I make.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[capobeachboy]

I missed out on a used carbon Nugg at the Riviera sale for $150.  Had the deck pad peeled back & handle ripped out - would have been an easy repair.  Damn...

[PonoBill]

Sounds more like a fifty buck board. Or free.