What if you are caught in the impact zone?

[stoneaxe]

That was weird...he actually cut into that wave at a pretty sharp angle...almost looked parallel to the wave.
I don't duck dive but that is similar to what I described above except that I'm going as straight as possible into the wave. You'll notice his board was flat on the way through...presenting the least resistance is key. My board is completely submerged as it goes through the wave. I aim to have the top of the wave hit me around thigh high (no higher since a pitching lip to the nuts will take you down too..been there done that..... ). When you get it just right it's so smooth it is anti-climactic. You come out on the back slope and can actually get a little extra speed going downhill if you keep your paddle going. I always make sure my last stroke is planted on the back side of the wave and give one long hard pull as I go through, maintains forward motion or at least holds you still while the wave passes through and gives you a brace to stay standing. Kind of depends how meaty the wave is though...I've been caught not getting through and surfed/fell backwards down the wave.

Be safe whatever you do....1st consideration should always be for those around you.

[PonoBill]

Yeah, it's actually easier to get over a peaking wave than a broken one because there's no turbulence on the back side. I watch the pain-in-the-ass Maui kids like Connor jump when they hit the top, using the momentum to leap high in the air and land on their boards. If I did that I'd break a leg.

Coldsup -- nothing works every time. Sad but true. My worst beating of the year so far was at Outer Tavares when I jumped off and grabbed the tail of my board. The wave broke top to bottom (more than double OH) and pitched me and my board out on the lip. Needless to say I didn't hang on to the handle for more than a microsecond. You can imagine the rest. At one point I saw my board underwater, underneath me bumping along the reef.  Not a lot of control at that point.

[LeftSide]

"At one point I saw my board underwater, underneath me bumping along the reef."

LOL

[wavemonkey]

one thing not to do is get impatient and attempt to storm over a flat face... like i did this morning. the nose on my board came up and hit me like a 2" X 4" and i have 2-3 broken ribs to show for it 

 

[supthecreek]

Wow.... that sucks!
heal well and fast....

[coldsup]

Coldsup -- nothing works every time. Sad but true. My worst beating of the year so far was at Outer Tavares when I jumped off and grabbed the tail of my board. The wave broke top to bottom (more than double OH) and pitched me and my board out on the lip. Needless to say I didn't hang on to the handle for more than a microsecond. You can imagine the rest. At one point I saw my board underwater, underneath me bumping along the reef.  Not a lot of control at that point.

You guys have waaayyyyy different surf to what we have. My folks lived on the Big Island for 12 years (my dad worked on the Mauna Kea telescopes) and I was lucky enough to come over a few times. That was many many years ago and I never surfed back then but remember so well bodyboarding and playing around in surf that totally trashed me....but I wasn't scared strangely.  It was watching surfers on the north shore that got me thinking - got to try this back home and just as luck would have it a surf school had opened not that far from me down the coast. The rest is history. Over here...a great day is head high clean waves and that isn't too common unless you head out to some of the classic spots....but that is out of my league. Still.....you got to enjoy what you got.   

[SUPcheat]

one thing not to do is get impatient and attempt to storm over a flat face... like i did this morning. the nose on my board came up and hit me like a 2" X 4" and i have 2-3 broken ribs to show for it  

 

Oww.  My ribs still tweak once in a while from last year.  When I broke mine, everything I did made it  hurt except to sit still without breathing.  Slept upright in a chair for a couple of weeks. The slightest cough or ahem! was painful. I got used to holding my ribcage stable with a hand while coughing, didn't work but it was better that way.


So far so good with the impact vest always on while water bound.

I lived in Venice when in school many years ago, loved it.  First year, we shared a house a three to five minute walk/jog from the pier for $90 per person per month.  Marina Del Rey on the other side of the Blvd. was expensive, Venice still relatively cheap.  The house we rented now valued for 1200 dollars a square foot, and Venice has been gentrified/movie starred to death.

When I was there, Jane Fonda and her husband at that time Tom Hayden lived just on the Marina Del Rey side on the beach, they would hold political rallies there.  She was always down by the pier on her bike with her kids getting them ice cream. She almost ran into me once on her bicycle with her little boy when I was running down to the beach for a jog.  She looked terrified, I had nightmares of lawyers hunting me down and destroying my career in the bud.

I never surfed then, never went in the ocean.  However, when I went to New Orleans for more training, they called me "the surfer" because I was from Cali, HaH!

Guess I am doing geriatric catch-up!

[wavemonkey]

yep-- when i moved to venice 30 yrs ago it was loafer's paradise 
but the water was so dirty that i stayed out of it until recently - when paddleboarding changed my mind! 

[Roundhouse]

Living at a beachbreak, there is no paddling around the point. Being old and weak I tried different ways of paddling my Naish 9'5 Mana out on (what we call) big days in the impact zone. The worst one was burying the nose and jumping over the whitewater. The nose of the board slammed me in the shins and I was lucky it was not serious. Then I added a handle (made for windsurfer) to the nose of the board. It allows me to bury the paddle, hold on as long as I can and at least not end up being dragged by the leash. I'm very leery of holding the board backwards by the leash attach with the sharp fins so close. I am debating doing this on my new 8'8 X32. The nose is much sharper so it should penetrate better and there is not the room for the handle. I'll try a more conventional technique first.

[jondrums]

I think there are a few threads on this, but the best way to go is a handle on the back of the board, just behind the deck-pad.  http://www.amazon.com/Surftech-Curved-Surface-Handle-Black/dp/B003V0RW70

[PonoBill]

I understand your concern about the fins, especially since I got whacked in the thigh by one of mine today. No cut, just a bruise. But I suggest you try a tail handle. I think tail handles reduce the likelihood of getting fin cut. You have more control over the board. I can't prove that, it's just my impression. but you might try it out in some smaller waves and see what you thing.

I don't recommend any kind of handle that can trap your fingers. My favorite is a hell strap for kiting by Da Kine. I find it has the right angle and the right tension (elastic straps) to let you hold it with your fingertips without wrapping your fingers into a dangerously tight position.

[covesurfer]

For what it's worth, I'm a recent convert to the PB tail strap. Now I want to put one on my F16.

I mounted a DaKine heel strap as PB discusses, near the tail of my 9'8" SUS. Works like a charm. I've used it in overhead and a half conditions in strong white water - mushy waves but still powerful. The key is being able to let go if necessary. The handle can be controlled with just your fingertips and the strap gives. You are not really close to your fins although I suppose you could somehow get tagged if you had real bad luck.

I bought some Pro Tech soft fins a few weeks ago as added insurance. However, while I left the pro techs on for side bites, I switched back to a smaller, rigid center fin. I think it's a 6". Like it a lot.

I would not use the tail handle if I got caught inside in waves that are throwing out and breaking top to bottom. I'd just dive and pray. Or not go out in the first place.

[PonoBill]

I actually have one on my Bullet. it's a great addition. Not so much for bailing and coping with waves (though I have used it that way coming over the reefs) but for handling the board. I use stick on oFishl and/or self adhesive leash ties.

[SuppaTime]

I got pounded today by two OH++ waves in a set today, and the leash somehow ended up wrapped around both ankles. I could not keep a grip on the board, white water took board for a ride, noose tightened and big ouch. Plus it took forever to un-knot the noose around my ankles and swim again. Result is a nasty red welt around my entire ankle and sore hip from being dragged that way. And my nose packed with sea water.

After that experience I am thinking maybe I need a waste harness. But will it really help? What do others do to prevent leash entanglements with body parts?

[surfinJ]

That's a tough one.  Sometimes, in the tumble cycle before the leash pulls
tight, a body part or the paddle gets some leash wrap.  It's then a quick
attempt at an untangle before the noose tightens.  This isn't a common
occurrence so I don't give it too much attention; though it can be critical
as you experienced.

Hasn't happened yet with the waist leash, probably just lower frequency
of use.  I've also experienced it with short and long leashes so I see no
correlation there.