8' SUP surfing problems

[supuk]

Go deeper and leave it latter  and my sensible advice would be while paddling with a spit stance make sure  you are getting you chest and weight right over the front of the board and on top of the paddle.try and reach forward and keep the blade being planted on the face of the wave. Think of how a snow skier starts a down hill race when pull them selfs forward over the tips of the skis. this works great the steeper the waves get!

[Old School 213]

You're trying to get in too early. Play a little game with yourself "How late can I take off and make it?"

I recently went from a 10'5" to an 8'8. I'm about your weight, #220 and had the same resistance point of not catching waves. I was trying to get in too early. Sit deeper and take off later. You'll be fine.

OS

PS if you're worried about crashing and burning, chicks dig scars and glory is forever!

[bajasurf]

Good Advice

I think the board is fine   

When I paddle in on my knees it catches waves easily  and then surfs fine, might add quad set up in the future 

After reading everything  the Stance seems to be my problem more than anything  spreading out my stance so my weight is distributed better on the board makes sense  getting low and paddling into steepers sections also makes sense 

Yea SUP is so different from surfing, but I am loving the challenge   I have the stoke of a 15 yr old grom

With surfing, I had to work my way down in board size  aty weight and age anything under 6.5 just is too much work for me anymore   I guess the same goes for SUP  I built this board because my 6.8 mid Simmons is one of my favorite boards, of I can get a similar feel from a SUP I will be stoked




quote author=supthecreek link=topic=21600.msg216176#msg216176 date=1376496877]
Just an "in general" comment.

I tell surfers who try SUP:
" It's nothing like surfing... paddling into a wave on SUP is a totally different animal"
Once you are on a wave, it's surfing
But paddling in, standing up, requires a different skill set.
Most folks (me included) have mighty struggles the first few days till you "get it"
For a life long surfer, the progress is quick, once you work out the wave catching part.

Just take the beatings till it clicks.

And...of course it will happen sooner if you try a bigger board till you make the adjustment.

Your board looks good, but SUP is a bit different from a prone board... it could be there is something in your design that makes it more difficult.... but you will figure that out as you transition into SUP.

Keep us in the loop.... you def have a different approach than most first timers
[/quote]

[stoneaxe]

Nice looking board.

You've already gotten the advice you need....you'll learn to love the 8'. The steep drops are like going over the top on a roller coaster.

My sim is similar to yours...8-4 x 33 x 4.5, a little less nose and tail rocker...bottom shape the same but no stepped rail. I also have 9" keels on mine. Biggest difference I see is your tail is more narrow than most sims I've seen...that may slow it a bit with more curve in the rails.

I usually get position in between the longboarders and the short boarders, depends on the waves. But at 6-4, 260lbs I'm unlikely to catch anything from outside on it. If I switch to my bigger boards I'm out past the longboarders....switch to the 14'er (you should see the looks that gets... ) I'm out so far it's crazy, often before they've even started to peak..

A couple things I've found helps a lot if your trying to get on early on a short board.

1. Anticipate the peak and get your speed up before the wave gets to you.
2. Paddle like there is a big great white coming at you.
3. Don't stop...he's getting closer.
4. One last hard stroke that is longer than normal while thrusting your hips, legs, and the board forward.
5. Pump it if you need to

Speaking of pumping it...the keels are a big game changer here. The water has no where to go but out the back. I can generate a lot more speed pumping this board than any other I have.

It's a lot easier to just be in position and one stroke into it though.

[bajasurf]

Thanks for all the great advice   I will put it to good use tomorrow

[Logan]

You sound like you are a couple of months behind me in terms of progression.  It took me a long time to figure out my 7'10, and I am still figuring.

The thread on paddling shortsups has been most helpful to me, as had all the wisdom from the Zone. 

The three things I will add: 

Paddle in your surf stance all the time- that has been the game changer for me.

Consider shortening your paddle, if you haven't already.  I am paddling at my height +2 and this keeps me low and in good position.

Finally, I bought a couple flat balance ball thingies which have given me the ability to train my balance off the water (enabling the game changing paddling in surf stance all the time).

For what it is worth, my fins were also part of the problem I hint because I had a big 10 inch center fin as part of my thruster set up on my board.  I broke a fin and bent my center fin recently, which I posted about.  I opted for shorter fins 5's and a 6.5 center after swapping emails with Wardog.  I had a rough adjustment the first couple sessions, but I a getting the hang of it now and loving the decision.  I realized that the swirly, longshore, and returning currents were catching my fins and really making it tough to stand up and set up for waves.  I still feel it depending on the situation imapaddling in, but it isn't a problem anymore.  If your fins are glassed on, it sounds like you are committed, but the size might be a factor.

Your board looks amazing.  Stick with it and have fun figuring it out!


Logan

[Supperson]

Flat water paddle that thing for a while

[bajasurf]

I have been for the last six months   I can paddle in the surf and on choppy days  I think the weight distribution is my problem as well as weight forward 

I will be paddling surf stance from now on   All the time

[Supperson]

good
thats right thats how we do
and
side note
kung foo foot stance for the second when a wave is smashing into you paddling out so it doesn't blow out your knee when the waves you in the leg region

Aloha

[bajasurf]

Kung Foo Stance? 

[AJR]

I'm not a life long surfer so I had to figure the SUP thing out from scratch.  I've worked my 215 lbs down to a 7'10x31 SIMSUP and have found that it does help to take off a bit later and keep my knees bent/stay low.  Also shorter faster paddle strokes (trying not to go past my feet) and stepping up to the nose as the wave starts to pick me up helps (especially the latter).

[Bean]

Kung Foo Stance? 

One foot in front of the other, or staggered stance, as opposed to the conventional parallel stance, side by side.  I may be in the minority here but I sometimes prefer to take off in a parallel stance especially in mellow, mushy waves. 

[Supperson]

yes I switch from surf stance to kung fu if I'm scratching to get out because if you are in surf stance and the lip smacks you in the knee it can buckle your knee.
In kung fu stance you save your knee

[surfcowboy]

2 thoughts on shape.

DW and others always say, flat bottom where you stand. You mentioned belly and then double concave.

Second, on an 8'0 that may be a lot of rocker.

You can totally "dial" any board but do let someone try that. It's said over and over and it's true, these aren't blown up surfboards.

I did the same step down and ended up selling my 8' and going to a 9' with less rocker because I didn't like the lack of glide in my heavily rockered 8.

Good luck and hang in, just wanted to share my personal experience.

[SlatchJim]

I'm with Surf Cowboy on this, but many others make very valid points.

I had a similar first reaction to a simmons inspired shape, documented here:
http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=21089.0
My first outing was just embarrasing.  After making adjustments to stance and paddling technique and tenacity, the new board is silly fun, and the easiest time I've ever had catching surf.  It's bigger than your 8' at 9'5" but for me, that's a drop in 10 inches.  I realize now that the gradual drop in size keeps the whole process more fun and less of a chore.

We see a lot of discussion about size reduction on this forum and it develops it's own momentum after a time.  Short boards don't work for everyone.  I surf with a guy at Doho that stepped up from a 7-11 to a longboard shape at near 10' and he's definitely catching more surfing better, and having way more fun.