Race board rail tape

[dingfix]

Hi, my surf sup has rail-tape fitted and as a result the rails are in great condition.  I'd like to put the same tape on my Race board, but the tape is only 2" wide.  My question is to any Race-board owners who've fitted tape, - did you tape just the widest point or the full height of the rail?  
Where you see chipped rails it's often the underside that is damaged, but the widepoint is at the top of the rail.  What works?  Thanks.

[Chilly]

I think most of the hits will be along the part of the rail that sticks out the most. So I center it on the widest point of the board. I haven’t had any scratches or nicks above or below the tape so far.

[headmount]

Initially I placed the bottom line of my railsaver just above the seam line.  But like Chilly noted, the part that sticks out the most is where you want to center whatever tape you use.  I had been hung up thinking that the seam on my Bullet wouldn't allow a good adhesion.  But I saw PBill's old Bullet (now JCs')  and he had it centered on the seam so I pulled mine off and replaced it centered on the seam.

First (water) pic is when it was above the seam and second (white one, on the bottom of the stack) centered on the seam.  If you have no seam even better.  We have them because boards are hollow.

[headmount]

The neat thing about railsaverpro is you can pull it off and redo and it still has all the adhesion.  My new placement is over a year old... still solid.

Maybe there might be some loss due to drag on flat water but not much and over here, with what we do with the downwinders, no downside at all.  meanwhile as noted, your board stays clean, plus you can rest it on its side on gravel .... no worries chicken curry.

[TEX_SUP]

3M makes clear tape that goes on leading edges of aircraft wings and helicopter rotor blades.  Strong stuff.

[Wetstuff]

Tex_Sup .. Verdad.



I bought a roll of this years ago for a job. It was about the price of a 6-0 from my local shaper but it's the real S__t in terms of toughness.  Intelligent design; it is 'soft tough'.

Ding-fix ..a question please: You mentioned your Surf Sup.  Can I assume the placement of the tape on this board is farther forward than the race board?  I'd like to map the danger zone.

And ..has anyone thought about ding tape on the inboard edge of the paddle shaft vs. a long strip down the side of the board?   Thanks.

Jim

[dingfix]

Thanks Jim,
I think the danger zone is pretty-much the same, from the point of paddle-entry to just past your feet.  On the surf sup I went much further back as the paddle can hit the board during turns etc.

On a surf-sup, the wide point is quite low-down on the rail, so 2+ inch tape covers it and almost onto the bottom of the board.  Looking at photos of chipped rails, that's the problem area covered.

My race board has the widest point very high on the rail, so wanting to know if folks tape just that area or the full depth of the rail.

dingfix.

[Deadbait]

Try Jegs.com. 

They have surface protection tape in 2", 4" and 6" width.  It comes in 30 foot lengths.  I use the 2" for both of my surf SUP's and it works well.  Also very affordable.

It seems like the extra width might work for coverage on a race board.

[blackeye]

I don't get railtape.  What is it that makes SUP better? 

Is it stronger than the lay-up?  If so, why not make boards outta the stuff?  Why not just use the equivalent weight in another layer of S-Glass or Kevlar on the rails?

Or is it a shock absorber/sacrificial layer?  Why not just use the equivalent weight in another layer of S-Glass or Kevlar on the rails?

It strikes me as the equivalent of leaving the plastic covering on your new iphone screen, or my grand-parents leaving the protective plastic on their new lampshades for 40 years, bless them.  Or leaving the dry cleaning bag over a suit when you wear it? No? 

[Deadbait]

blackeye - railtape is used primarily to keep the paint from chipping off of the rails of your board.  I've seen some older SUP's with layers chipped off, dents and dings from continuous paddle whacks.  Thus the invention of rail tape - to give the paddle whackers a little extra protection for their boards.

Railtape is basically a thicker, stronger packing tape.  The one I use and  recomended above is described as:

Surface protection tape is an extremely tough, clear and conformable polyurethane tape. Ideal for use on virtually any painted or unpainted surface where abrasion, chipping or scratching can occur. Heavy duty (14 mil thickness [0.014"]) provides additional protection from automotive solvents, extreme temperatures and ultra violet light. Will not yellow over time.

I know the newer SUP's are made a little more durable in the rails than older models. 

So to really answer your question, I think your grandparents had it right!  Leave the plastic on the lampshades honey, they will last alot longer.

[surfcowboy]

Blackeye, it's a weight thing. Hit most any shiny hard material with a paddle edge and it'll break/chip. There are un-chippable materials but they are way heavier so the compromise is to put a small strip of that kind of softer sacrificial material on the rails in only the areas that get hit most.

Check out rotomolded SUPs if you want bulletproof but they weigh a ton. Most surfers and racers are looking for stiff and light and that's seldom chip resistant.

I actually use it more in the parking lot than on the water. Nothing like scraping the pi55 out of your rail by setting you board down to grab your key.

If you guys wanna see what areas get chipped the most, check out any demo/rental board.

[SUPflorida]

Or may be it's the quality of the paint used...

I use to build large custom Yachts for a living (65'-105').
We used Awlgrip  on them all. When we were getting ready to paint one...a few of us in the yard would get our side projects ready. As it is a catalyzed paint with a sweat in period after mixing the two parts, we always over mixed by a few gallons...what was left over went into the frig and we would get our share. I was big into windsurfing at the time and painted all my boards that way.

When the boat was primed..I would get the leftover 545 epoxy primer...when we shot the finish...I would get the left over of that. Awlgrip is incredibly tough...I remember pulling myself up on the deck of the first one I painted while wearing a metal spreader bar on my harness...when I realized shat I had done I looked down to survey the carnage only to see what liked a faded pencil line that wiped off with solvents when I got home.

Is anyone stepping up with Awlgrip on their SUP boards?
Are you having any chipping problems?
I know it's expensive and a health nightmare to apply but nothing I've ever used come close durability wise.

[river]

KP Rail Tape is now coming in 4" by 8' lengths for Racing Boards.  Call John at Surfride Solana beach for some he can get it for ya.  Clear light strong and can be reapplied.  The edge tape for the paddles they make is also the best I have found. 

[PonoBill]

Railsaver pro is da kine. I need to get some for my new Bullet and Kalama board. Looks great, and as far as I can tell, it's forever. It's the only stuff I've found that never gets torn up. I have heli tape on my Bullet now, and it has some chunks missing. Boyum's rails look like brand new, and his bullet is a year older than mine.

[blackeye]

... if you want bulletproof but they weigh a ton...

I actually use it more in the parking lot than on the water...

[/quote]

I recently bought a new 12-6 and it performs so much better than my collection of $35 craigslist windsurfers.  Except one overlooked metric:  Now I have to look after the thing. 

The old boards I just dropped when my arms gave out from the weight.  When I get home, I just chuck them into a big pile.  Zero maintenance and care. That's performance!

I suppose rail tape is in my new board's immediate future.