KeNalu Maliko vid.

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[headmount]

This was another dark day... yesterday.  Pono and I went out for a run and a gal named Devin posted up beside us to give us a little exhibition of how to take off.  Was stoked that she did.  Anyway many of you have read PBill's numerous posts... but he doesn't really sit behind a computer all day.  He's always ready to go and paddle and does.  All three of us were on KeNalu paddles.  No hat, no tee shirts... yet.  Hopefully the sun will come out soon.

KeNalu

[PonoBill]

Good one. I look kind of wobbly. If I wind up going to Portland next week I'm going to get that knee juiced up.

Man, Devin flies. When she finally quit playing video games with us she disappeared like a fighter jet.

We were all using Molokais--I was using my surf paddle. Too short, but a worthy experiment. Toasted my bad shoulder, I can't keep myself from pulling too hard on it. Back to the Maliko for downwind.

I also notice that while the video is running the ocean looks fairly flat, but if you stop it almost anywhere, it looks like mountains of water. I wonder why that is?

[LaPerouseBay]

Good one HM, keep them coming.

Always fun to see Devin tear it up, she's quite a surfer. 

[Strand Leper]

Another epic video HM! 

[covesurfer]

Nice video, thank you!

You guys know how to live!

[paddledaddy]

Loved it. Bruce Brown has nothing on your narration!

[Weasels wake]

Don't know if it's from vid illusion, or if it's real, but it looks like your board has a fair amount of flex it is when going over the swells.  I guess that could be expected when you're on a board about 17' long.
I've never been on anything longer than 10-4, someday maybe, looks like a hoot.
Great vid.

[headmount]

WW...It may have some flex but there is definitely some camera mount shake which makes the board appear like it's flexing.  Yes and riding a 17 board takes some time to wrap your head around that kind of length.  The rudder makes it all possible.   If you watch Devin on her second take off clip you can see her pull right in front of me and then hit the rudder peddle and angle back off to the left slightly.  Lining the board up  with the direction of the swell is the first order of operation so you can at least catch it.  Then following keeps you in longer... all with the rudder. 

My observation of Pono with the footage i sifted thru was that he was angling to the right a majority of the time about 30 degrees off of straight with the swell.  So he missed some because of it.  The ones that come from the left side going out, he could catch.  But the majority of the swells were slightly angled towards the left from the right.  You can see Devin's long rides are fading left... towards shore.  After you drop in and get speed you can angle left or right, just like a real wave.  But unlike a real wave these ones aren't steep and the board has to point perfectly with the energy or it slides right under you.. no matter how hard you stroke.

[1paddle2paddle]

Great video, thanks Bill.

[PonoBill]

The chicken line is deeply engraved in me. I need to work on that. I knew I was getting better rides going left. But once you've seen Spartan Reef up close and personal your rudder foot has an automatic bias. I want to start skimming the reefs. Gonna MAKE myself do that.

When I used to race cars with wings and slicks I had to learn to take some corners flat out. Even if your mind is saying "stand on it you sissy" your sneaky foot might lift a little. And with a downforce car that can be very bad, because it can unsettle the car and reduce cornering force. The drill is to stand on your throttle foot with your clutch foot.

I need some kind of equivalent way. Maybe if you just keep bumping me...

[PonoBill]

We were all using Molokais--I was using my surf paddle. Too short, but a worthy experiment. Toasted my bad shoulder, I can't keep myself from pulling too hard on it. Back to the Maliko for downwind.

Switched back to my Maliko with the proper length. What a difference. My shoulders feel great. My biceps are a little sore, but it's their turn. Today was a pretty hard one, had to work for every bump. Though coming over the reef was HUGE fun. Bill fell and bounced off the reef after an epic and very fast takeoff and long run in a big reef breaker. Looked double overhead to me, but my eyes were as big as saucers watching him. I had a wall of water in front and thunder behind. I paddled like hell but got knocked off the board hard enough to wrench my back. Still, the reef part was a blast. I caught a bunch of mid-sized waves that got my F16 sizzling. If you've done this you know what I mean. What a great feeling. We angled in between outer upper kanaha and the bowl waves. It made for a very long reef crossing. Fun on a small day like today but suicide with any serious groundswell.

Bill and I were both moaning and groaning like a couple of old geezers (come to think if it, we ARE old geezers) but if its good tomorrow, we'll be going. We can heal when the wind stops.

[stoneaxe]

Damn that looks fun. I need a plane ticket.

[DavidJohn]

Niceone.. Thanks Bill.

DJ

[Chaser]

Damn that looks fun. I need a plane ticket.

Agreed Stoney...make that two tickets.  Was it me or did the narration sound a little Warren Miller-esque?

One of my favorite DW vids to date.

[H2Oman]

Thanks. Really enjoyed it.