Author Topic: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing  (Read 15314 times)

CMC

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2012, 08:39:39 PM »
Try riding a proper singlefin when you prone surf.

It's exactly the same concept, those pics above show it pretty well.  In bigger waves you can stay on the tail a bit further.  In Mush it's trim, set up, slip the back foot back, hack and then step forward again.

Swapping the foot from rail to rail is also good on bigger boards.

Like playing guitar it becomes automatic once you feel it a few times.

abmatt

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2012, 08:44:40 PM »
"Swapping the foot from rail to rail is also good on bigger boards." I see that in those pics. Will definitely try that.

DW, I'm about your weight. How wide and thick are your 7-8s?


tde

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2012, 06:19:08 AM »
Over the last year there have been some great videos and posts put out by Blane Chambers of Paddle Surf Hawaii on PERFORMANCE SUP SURFING. He really emphasizes back foot placement.... all the way back and on the rail....and is clearly focused on as he describes..."throwing buckets"  when jamming rail to rail turns. His stuff is definitely worth watching and reading...and has really helped improve my surfing......Also, check out the pictures on the PSH website and you get a good idea of how those guys/girls are consistently "tearing it up!!!"TDE

Dwight (DW)

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2012, 06:46:59 AM »

jdmotes

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2012, 08:11:22 AM »
 DW; Quit scanning footballs into your CAD program  ;D ;D ;D.  Just joking (of course). In all seriousness, that's a killer outline!     Paddle on,               JD
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Strand Leper

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2012, 08:49:02 AM »
DW,

LOVE that outline!

The board in the pic has a really crowned deck... I notice that yours has a flat deck. 

The crowning takes away quite a bit of volume, but IMHO makes the board much more lively because just a twitch of your ankle can shift the plane of the board a great deal with the crowned deck.  It is a huge tradeoff in stability, however.

As to the sequence... there is just so much going on there that I could spend a day writing about it... but it certainly doesn't look like much... Tide is changing and turning what is sometimes a fun little left shoulder into a drop in... one pump... back off... double up... shorebreak...

The goofy picture in the middle is where I shift my foot back over the center of the pad, look ahead and try to figure out what the wave is going to to... is it big enough to have a shoulder, or has the tide killed it... and it is just going to back off and break on the sand... (clearly, the latter)...

On the turn itself, you can see that at the beginning of the turn, I am not sure how much speed I am going to be able to carry through... but I know that I don't have enough speed to bury the rail... for a flat turn like that, if you have lots of speed, you can push the fins out and recover... you can see that I recognize that the wave is flattening and being impacted by the backwash from the shorebreak... so rather than push out the rear foot at the apex of the turn, I bury the tail a bit and I pull my front foot back underneath my body, and only push my rear foot very slightly... so, not only is it a flat turn, but it is a weak flat turn... but the speed of your board dictates how critically you can turn and recover.

This board is VERY fast and milks crazy amounts of speed from even the weakest shorebreak... the proner in the pic didn't catch a single wave all morning (I call him Fitzy... I have no idea what his name is... but he surfs at this spot quite a bit... rides Terry Fitzgerald looking glass jobs and Steve Lish type boards... and is fairly competent)... and my buddy Brian got about three hundred shots of me... unfortunately, most of them look like this...

Didn't mean to babble... but thought that some further explanation might be helpful for those just starting out with this whole "turning" thing...

Tim
American Saltwater Angler Magazine's Seven Time Angler of the Year.* Founder and former CEO of "Fishstrong" an organization devoted to the fight against fishbait-hands-smell discrimination.

* subject to revocation due to a pending investigation by the FDA (fisherman drug association)

Dwight (DW)

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2012, 10:18:41 AM »
DW,

LOVE that outline!


It's the Channel Island's Dumpster Diver. Image blown up and traced exactly. The Jacky size is an exact match. The Dwight size had the width blown out a touch. It took a lot of image searching to find one that would blow up and hit the width I needed, at the length I wanted.

I captured the true template without distortion.

With no experience myself, it can't hurt to copy the best.

I've owned a few heavy domed deck boards. Kyle Bernhardt had the most. Naish the second most dome. I was going for a deck between the Naish and the dead flat PSH. I'm pleased with how the rails turned out and the deck comfort.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2012, 10:22:40 AM by DW »

csx355

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2012, 12:54:34 PM »
Dwight's Right!
I had his 7'10 shape built up and although I've only managed three sessions on it to date each one has opened up more and more possibilities, foremost of which is the use of the kick pad. I thought that the tail on mine might be a tad wide and slow the turns down a bit but step on the ridge bar and you drive round more than Tokyo Joe. Plus the front foot just needs weighting to turn 'Slow' into 'Go'  No Shuffle Required.

I'm 196lbs  - DW - 194!! Some one had a good Christmas ;)


Strand Leper

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #23 on: February 24, 2012, 01:00:32 PM »
DW and CSX,

Funny... If you look back at the thread for the Collab being built, it was inspired by.... Corran's Push Plus and the dumpster diver.... Very similar outlines.... Just a Different tail, a little narrower, and slightly less volume...

Keep pushing it Right Coast!

Tim
American Saltwater Angler Magazine's Seven Time Angler of the Year.* Founder and former CEO of "Fishstrong" an organization devoted to the fight against fishbait-hands-smell discrimination.

* subject to revocation due to a pending investigation by the FDA (fisherman drug association)

TallDude

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #24 on: February 24, 2012, 11:12:40 PM »
Nice little round house Tim. You wax, or monster paint your boards?
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

stoneaxe

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2012, 12:36:47 AM »
DW....what are your thoughts on what would need to be done to get your shape suitable for 240 lbs. I'm thinking about having an 8'er shaped for myself as incentive to get down to at least 240 and that board looks very much like what I have in mind. Wondering about the width though. I still have crappy balance so real stable is an crucial.
« Last Edit: February 25, 2012, 12:41:05 AM by stoneaxe »
Bob

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Dwight (DW)

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2012, 04:21:29 AM »
DW....what are your thoughts on what would need to be done to get your shape suitable for 240 lbs. I'm thinking about having an 8'er shaped for myself as incentive to get down to at least 240 and that board looks very much like what I have in mind. Wondering about the width though. I still have crappy balance so real stable is an crucial.

8'6 x 32 x 4.75 would be my best guess. I say 8'6 because to me, that length is the point where anyone can do it. The 8'6 length has replaced the 9'3 as the go too starting point for downsizing.


AJR

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Re: Re: Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2012, 10:55:37 AM »
DW....what are your thoughts on what would need to be done to get your shape suitable for 240 lbs. I'm thinking about having an 8'er shaped for myself as incentive to get down to at least 240 and that board looks very much like what I have in mind. Wondering about the width though. I still have crappy balance so real stable is an crucial.

8'6 x 32 x 4.75 would be my best guess. I say 8'6 because to me, that length is the point where anyone can do it. The 8'6 length has replaced the 9'3 as the go too starting point for downsizing.

Sound like the Jammer?

Kaihoe

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2012, 12:36:12 PM »




CSX only a true cornish man could Get away with those graphics
« Last Edit: February 25, 2012, 12:44:41 PM by Kaihoe »

surfinJ

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Re: The back foot -- getting it on the tail for for surfing
« Reply #29 on: February 25, 2012, 02:14:41 PM »
To really power carve a turn or hold the board on the steep (vertical) pocket part of the wave
you need to have your back foot over the fins.  As the wave approaches, you would be at first still paddleling in the neutral stance, manuevering towards the steeper peak or curl area.  If the wave is going to break slopey and is not big this stance can be held to take off, followed by a quick foot shuffle- cross stepping usually not the choice as the boards nose is dropping- to surf stance.  When you set up for a turn, foot all the way back,  abit off center onto the rail in direction of turn.  If the wave is not steep or your speed is not high your weight has to move forward to keep the flow going.


If the approaching wave is going to break steeply or is big, just before it arrives, transition
over a few stokes to your foot back stance. The last stroke will ideally be into the takeoff, foot on the tail railside to the wave face.  As long as you are fast or steep, this foot placement
works.  If you feel your energy bleeding off, weight forward - or your feet forward- until you
accelerate.  Then foot back and enjoy.

 


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