Author Topic: Bouncing down the face?  (Read 3635 times)

AJR

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Bouncing down the face?
« on: November 30, 2011, 12:27:31 PM »
I was able to get out yesterday afternoon at San Onofre and it was amazing - consistent over head high with pretty clean conditions.  The waves were definitely some of the largest I've every ridden.  I noticed in the beginning that I was bouncing down the face - I managed not to lose control (well on a few I did) but I would like to know what causes this?  I'm thinking it's technique - I was leaning back at first until I got the confidence after a few waves and started leaning forward in order to get my speed up.  Leaning forward seemed to help but I wanted to get any more advice from those more experienced out there...

I'm 215 lbs and surfing a Coreban Fusion (9'x29.5") with the PSH quad set + the guitar pick (aka nubster) center fin in the middle of the box...

Thanks!

SoCalSupper

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2011, 01:32:05 PM »
super fun sesh Andy!-you got some mackers!
i noticed you were standing a bit tall on  your board-give yourself a little more knee bend to absorb the bumps and scoot up a bit towards the nose especially on take off when youre battling to get into the wave.
Also dont bend so much at the waist-think of dropping your hips/butt down and keeping your back pretty straight. this and being a little more in the center will keep your takeoffs pretty smooth and get your speed up.
you will have to readjust for your bottom turn.
Man what a sesh that was though! :o
United States Air Force Para-Rescue motto "That others may live"

AJR

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2011, 03:51:27 PM »
Excellent advice John - it helps that you were able to see me and point out where I can improve...  Bending my knees is definitely my weakness - I think I'll have to tie a string from my arse to my ankles!!

XLR8

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2011, 05:59:26 PM »
That's a cool deal, to get direct feedback like that.  Helps me too...the idea of potentially being a little far back.  Here in the Great Lakes when the waves are big it's a different deal.  There's usually 30 mph winds causing them and, unless you are at a protected break, they can be steep and close out quickly.  I stand further back to avoid purling.  I often get the bounce, or chatter, effect.  Sometimes it pulls something cool out of me.  My first behind the back brace occured then:  I dropped in with paddle on the right, standing on the tail before a step forward into a bottom turn, board began to bounce and rattle side to side and from nowhere I was leaning back with my paddle behind the back and bracing on the left side.  Stoked!  But maybe I should have just bent lower and stepped forward to begin with.
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AJR

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2011, 06:56:01 PM »
Good point XLR8 - I normally surf steep beach breaks that break late and close out quick so I stay back to avoid pearling. I'll have to make a conscious effort to stay forward when the waves are right.

Either way I've gotta bend my knees more...

kneecap

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2011, 07:01:37 PM »
As was stated move up on the board a bit. I was always told in my shortboard days to have your weight centered over the rear 2/3 of the board, probably applies fairly universally.

Also, even though it seems a bit counter-intuitive, get your weight on your front foot more on the drop. You'll accelerate into the wave better. Check pics of big wave surfers, unless they're falling out of the sky, they usually have their weight over the front foot. It's Dogpatch not Teahupoo, you're not gonna pearl!

Finally, since SUPs are so wide, there's just too much board contacting the water sometimes for the weight on it so you start skipping when you drop in flat. Lean in and engage the rail. It'll reduce the amount of surface area in the water reducing bounce.

Bummed I missed what sounds like an all-time session out there! I was stuck at work the last two days and it sounds like you guys had all the fun. Plus I want to see how good SoCal looks in pastel.

SoCalSupper

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2011, 07:09:41 PM »
i look fabulouse in pastel but i was riding the mean green wave shredding machine-Infinity demo 8-8 x 29 x 4, still waiting for my new 8-5.
Great point about sano not being chopes-you can get away with some weight on your front foot-really crouching-not leaning-and keeping your back straight gives you stability and power-then like i said just readjust a little when you lean into your bottom turn off the bottom.
I see a lot of people straighten their legs and "Soul" lean into the face of the wave (frontside).
Dont do that-keep some crouch and feel the spring of the momentum of the speed you gathered while dropping into the wave kind of catapult you down the line.
United States Air Force Para-Rescue motto "That others may live"

exetersup

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Re: Bouncing down the face?
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2011, 11:10:57 AM »
Hey AJR,
How you liking that Fusion? In anything head+, try it with either just the 350 sidebiters and a 7" center OR find some 425sidebiters with the 350s on the inside. 5 fins all at once seems overkill. I like the 2+1 on my Fusion when it gets really big, otherwise its quad time all the time:)

 


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