Author Topic: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP  (Read 17143 times)

H2OSweeper

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2012, 03:09:54 PM »
Woops! I just figured this video posting thing out! I'll try this again! ;D

Nice work Beasho! You inspired me to grab my kid's favorite xmas present and head for surf!


IMG 2465

airSUP

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #31 on: January 12, 2012, 05:40:52 PM »
gopro on the paddle, video looks great!
I hope to see more people doing this

p.s. no need for a paddle mount, just tape the camera to your paddle with electrical tape.
Brett Bennett
Owner : airSUP inflatable SUPs
Web: http://air-SUP.com

Beasho

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #32 on: January 12, 2012, 05:42:39 PM »
Okay, I watched the video again and now I need to do some work--I built a 1200 watt electric bike here on Maui last year but I shipped the monster batteries (40AH 48V) to Hood River for my trike. So I need a decent sized LiFe 48V battery . . . ., maybe a sidehack!?! . . Then I need to build a better rack to . . . That means I need to clean the garage to make room . . . Damn, what a troublemaker you are, Beasho

Awesome ambition Pono.   I went through many of these mental gyrations and learned that the iZup ZUMA was probably a $100 bike with $1,400 worth of electronics.   Rather than piecing it all together I just bought the package.  I am very happy with it.  I just crossed the 350 mile mark on it in 2 months.  Considering its 6.5 mile round trip to my favorite beach that's a lot of extra waves and savings. 

IRideYellow

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #33 on: April 26, 2015, 06:33:33 PM »
Great vids of surfing Mavs.

I'm building a bike rack based on your pics and the link you provided.  What is the tube on the bottom outside made of?  Looks like a fishing rod though I assume anything that keeps the two sections apart will work.

Thanks,


The surf rack was the basic Hermesman design found here:
http://www.rodndtube.com/surf/info/surf_racks/BicycleSurfboardRack.shtml

Starboard WidePoint 8'10, Sunova 8'10 Speeed (Sold), Wardog  7'10 Jammer,  L41 8'8 S3 (sold), Naish Mana 10 (sold), 3 Wavestorm 9'6

Subber

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #34 on: April 26, 2015, 07:44:04 PM »
Here is Beasho's UPDATED rack where he uses 1.5" pipe and a copper connector:

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,22778.msg237453.html#msg237453

I just made a bike rack using 1" pipe but stiffened up the back arm with an extra bracket to a lower stay
of my bike; however, you can't do that easily for the front arm.  I think I would use 1.5" pipe if I were
to do it over to get the extra strength and stiffness (my SUP is 26 pounds).  While the back arm is plenty
stiff, I may, later, replace the front arm with 1.5" pipe to make it stronger. Mine's just on a bike, not electric,
so I'm not planning ongoing very fast.

I connected my front and rear arms with a 1/2" pipe using reducers (from the 1" pipe at the corners)
but, in hindsight it would be easier and cheaper to use a T-reducer higher up or, just use the same diameter T.
1/2" seems strong enough for that part, but maybe I'd use a larger diameter if I made another one.  Rather than
gluing that pipe, I used screws on each end so I can easily take it apart from the arms, need be.

« Last Edit: April 26, 2015, 08:07:57 PM by Subber »
Jimmy Lewis Black & Blue Noserider 10'1"x31"x4.25," 164 liters, 24 lbs, 1 box
Pearson Laird Surftech Longboard 10'6"x23"x29.75"x18"x4.375," 154 liters, 24 lbs, 3 boxes
Takayama Ali'i II Surftech 11'x21.375”x28.5”x17.25”x 4.25,” 162 liters, 26 lbs, 3 boxes

PonoBill

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2015, 08:03:39 PM »
I discovered a stack of the 5000 mah 11.7V lipo batteries I already have for my drones work fine for my electric bike. four batteries in series is about 48V at 5AH and I take an extra 4 along on longer rides as spare. The total pack weight is about four pounds, eight if I take the spare. I set the low voltage cutout to 40V to be conservative and it gives me an easy ten mile range with average pedaling on our hilly maui roads, then ten more for the spare pack.

Of course LiPos are a little nutball, and you need good charging and balancing to use them safely, but can't beat them for power to weight.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

unclesaltdog

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #36 on: April 26, 2015, 08:57:13 PM »
.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2015, 09:04:40 PM by Tightlines »

FinnPaddle

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #37 on: April 26, 2015, 11:34:38 PM »
Thanks. I really liked the video. IMHO it was inspiring on many levels.

Beasho

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Re: Arbitrage: The Electric SUP
« Reply #38 on: April 27, 2015, 06:47:22 AM »
Here is a quick photo of the latest design.  The key difference between my design and Hermesman are the support stays.  There are two ropes holding the rack up connected to the seat and the top stay tube on the bicycle.  These lines form a 'Truss' which basically gives the rack unlimited capacity.  I have ridden this design with a kid 120 lbs kid standing on the rack.

Note to the Cross Bar Support has been modified into a full 1 1/2" PVC with Rubber gasket for flex.  This helps keep the rack from wobbling under load or when used for a kickstand.  The rack shown below is a decade more advanced than Hermesman link provided.

I am going to repost this:
---------------------------------------------------------------

The total cost for the rack was ~ $40.

It has been constructed from 1 ˝” Schedule 40 PVC.  Be sure to use the blue PVC pipe primer.  I have had historical rack failure when some of the lower section came apart but this was a result of a rush job without primer and with smaller 1” PVC tubing.
 
In this design I have replaced the PVC T joints at the bike frame with 1” Copper T’s.  The Copper T fits INSIDE the 1 1/2" PVC and is NOT permanently secured.  The plastic T-joints would break every 12-18 months which wouldn’t necessarily damage the board but would cost me time to replace and/or make me miss a surf session.  I have also added a rope sling to hold the board.  This eliminated the need for padding on the bottom of the rack cross bar.   Regardless of how much padding I used the sand, or pad itself, would eventually abrade the board’s rail.
 
The top of the outer tubing was cut at an angle to allow the board to slide easily into the rack. The 6.5” width accommodates most any SUP with deck pad.   The paddle sits in a cradle on the other side of the upper board pad.  The paddle has been secured with its own line making it independent of the board. 
I also added a connection at the bottom of the rack using a 1 ˝” PVC rubber couple.   This sufficiently stiffened the rack without making it rigid and provides for a solid kick stand when lowering the board to the ground.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2015, 06:49:55 AM by Beasho »

 


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