LaPer just posted an epic run on the southside yesterday. My old theory was one side or the other but yesterday it was good over on the north side also. The day before (Sat) I took a video of friend, Victor, who I've been surfing with for 35 years, which I'm still editing. Then sunday it was 060 and LaPer called with the enthusiastic southside report. But then I looked out my porch and it's ripping on this side. So as much as I have begun to love that southside run the decision was made to not burn as much fossil fuel.
Driving up to Maliko we saw the surf was over mast high at Hookipa. The dreaded roguish NE swell. This resulted huge cross ups that either knocked us out of glides or jettisoned us into a whoppers. Past Paia the wind lightened up a tad and we had to work harder to get in. My eyes were glued to the few feet in front. We waltzed into the outer Sprecks area and I'm slightly ahead and outside of Victor and Don. Victor yells, I look up and see a full size set rolling in and I'm right in the line up. The first one is already breaking just downwind of me. Slip over the shoulder but when I do I see the stack of waves behind it. I'm going to get caught inside and break my godamn board if I don't get out of there fast. So the next wave looms up, I can hear Victor hooting in back and inside of me. Two solid strokes and I'm in. Now going with the wind, to the right isn't an option and going straight is a for sure pearl up to my neck. The wave is going top to bottom and I have a 17+ board. As soon as it releases I railroad two staircases and am on the third. One more chop and I'll drop into the pit so on the top third of the wave I kick the rudder into a hard left, get on the tail, lean backside on the blade. The board trims perfectly. Finally drop into the main face and am flying directly at Victor who has wisely negotiated the channel. Blaze right up next to him in a deep crouch and he's howling so hard we both sit down to decompress and watch to see how Don Shear (the heli pilot) fared going through the lineup. The set lulled and Don was fine but his rudder fell off for some unknown reason so he got creamed coming across on the camp one reef. I told him to let his leash drag behind him and that worked pretty good till the finish.
I usually spot surf line ups miles ahead but I'm out of practice. I guess winter is here. Forgot for a moment and my partner saved my neck yesterday with a warning yell.
Anyway from the pics of LaPer it looked great on the south... two sides had great runs on the same day.