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41
Gear Talk / Re: JL Super Frank fin advise
« Last post by sflinux on April 07, 2024, 11:03:44 PM »
I agree with Badger regarding the fin size and type. 
I have the 8'6" SF Wide and weigh 200#.  I liked the GL-2 Quads and rode it like that exclusively until I found I didn't like the way the board felt in larger surf.  Then I tried Pancho Sullivan thrusters and it was a night and day difference in larger surf.  Based on my experience quad is good in the smaller stuff, then switch to thrusters when the waves get juicy.
I have the 8'9" Worldwide and liked that board with Keel fins over quads (SF didn't work with keels).  But after my experience with the SF and thrusters, I gave thrusters a try on the World Wide and the board rode sweet.
Don't be afraid to experiment with your fin setup for varying conditions as you might find your amazed at the different feels you can get with the same board..
Jimmy Lewis makes user friendly boards that work in a varety of conditions.
No experience with the Destroyer & Allwave.
One guy is running thrusters on the 7'7" Destroyer here:
https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/Review/NEW-2019-Jimmy-Lewis--Destroyer--Model-arriving-December?page=1
Enjoy the new gear (fitness equipment)
42
For a high sample rate, like 10KHz, a system would have about 10 samples per microsecond.

10,000Hz sample rate isn't in my world.  Nor are 10th's of a millionth of a second. 

I'm a simple person.  10Hz means 10 data points per second, each one one a speed, on a graph, per unit time.

The 25Hz RaceBox I linked includes an accelerometer and a G force sensor.  When they fold that into their model, they can get location within 4"
The Seabreeze forums windsurf slalom guys were engineering their own system 15 years ago, and it worked.  Accurate stops and starts.  On the ocean.   

As for location, it doesn't matter to me if my line is off by 6 feet.  I have tested it for location and it's damn accurate.
We were experimenting with locating paddlers in our group if someone was missing.  We were using Google Maps "share my location."  It's free and it works. 
I downloaded my Garmin telemetry into Google Earth and located my position on my downwind line.  It was easily within 6 feet on the few points I checked.
 
All I need are speed numbers, in real time. 
Here are videos using the same model, with imported 1Hz and 18Hz sample rates.
The graph has 10 seconds on the x axis, speed on the y axis.
 
Note the Garmin on my head. That was 2013.  Gopro and Garmin telemetry imported into a model I use now.  That's 1Hz.   

The other video is Gopro 8 telemetry at 18Hz.  Note all the data points in the same 10 seconds? 
More data, more accurate graphs if you drop a point (or 10).   

It's not rocket science. 

https://youtu.be/1Sk-Zi3fh90?si=sQJYOJZ07x1BXq6V

https://youtu.be/rZ5OMt3NzbM?si=C73hFJPbrazeMsE-
43
If you have some trouble sleeping this paper--Evaluation of the performance of GNSS-based velocity estimation algorithms--is guaranteed to conk you out quickly: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s43020-022-00080-4?fromPaywallRec=false
44
I use the bicycle mode - your track is in color (based on your relative speed).  I still get those high speed spikes, but most of the time, I get pretty decent speed charts.
45
Yup, GPS speed is great for average speed, but location precision for high-quality GPS units is +/- 6 feet. Way better than it used to be, but there are still spike errors and high sample rates don't fix the issue, they make it worse at the same time they are making the average speed more accurate by providing more samples to average over short periods. But if you suddenly move 12 feet (the worst case error) in .1 microseconds your GPS will think you're hauling ass if you're standing still  Most good systems don't report instantaneous errors, even what looks like instantaneous speed isn't. It's an average taken over some number of samples with a smoothing algorithm applied. For a high sample rate, like 10KHz, a system would have about 10 samples per microsecond. More than enough to discard spikes and get a reasonable average even if the screen updates at 1KHz (they don't, it's more like 200hz, though shitty ones might update at a low enough rate to get flicker from LED lights or the backlight). In other words, the errors are there, but nobody cares. And yes, of course, the errors can compound, but usually they don't. Some racing bodies used to require Doppler GPS measurement for record attempts. But after a quick google search I couldn't find any that do anymore. Doppler directly measures speed instead of calculating it. But it's like preferring vinyl records to CDs or MP3, Laserdisk to MP4. Analog vs. Digital. 
46
Gear Talk / Re: JL Super Frank fin advise
« Last post by firesurf on April 07, 2024, 01:11:51 PM »
Hey LBsup,
We talked before about the 8.10 Destroyer and the Quobba fin setup you used on yours. The reason I didnt pull the trigger on the Quobbas back then was thinking with the 2+ 1 fin setup that’s on it, the 7” center fin gave me added stability on rough windy days. Now, with all the hours I’ve put on the water this winter my balance/leg strength is improving so I may still try the Quobbas with the smaller trailing center in the future.

Right now excited with the pretty much shiny new 8’ JL super frank. Feels fast compared to the Destroyer.  Just want to put a quality quad set on the Frank.  The Destroyer will be my outside wave longboard style board. It proved itself all winter to handle pretty much anything thrown at it.

So yesterday, on first surfing outing on the new Super Frank one of the prone surfers I  knew in the line up a 71 yr old retired doctor told me he decided to sell his sup.  Id talked to him previously about the board, an 8.3 Allwave.
Anyway, he gave me a sweet deal on it as it’s a bit beat up. Got it home scrubbed all the years or black garage grunge off it and it looks pretty good other than some chips and banged up rails. The Allwave will be a great travel board for Costa Rico or PR. It’s a thruster and has fins so all set just need rail tape and non skid stickers in the nose.  I suppose it’s time to quit looking at boards for a while…



47
Gear Talk / Re: JL Super Frank fin advise
« Last post by LBsup on April 07, 2024, 04:44:49 AM »
I had the same boards for many years except the SuperFrank was not the lean model.  I found the JL stock quad fins were fine for the SuperFrank.  I rode the destroyer as a tri using the yellow Quobba  and a 4” true Ames center fin.  Loved both boards.
48
Gear Talk / Re: JL Super Frank fin advise
« Last post by firesurf on April 07, 2024, 04:30:41 AM »
Got to surf the 8’ Super Frank yesterday in waist to chest beach break. Super fun morning. Was playing in the line up with a light crowd of mostly short boarders. Good vibes, good time!  Love the board, fast down the line, nimble, wow!
 Made the 8.10 destroyer feel like a tanker…

Badger, The Futures link looks like a great resource - thanks
49
Gear Talk / Re: JL Super Frank fin advise
« Last post by Badger on April 07, 2024, 03:18:29 AM »
Since you only weigh 160, no need to go SUP specific. The Futures fin guide is helpful for zeroing in on the type of fin. Then choose the size according to your weight and shop online for the best deal. I had the 7'6 Wide and loved it as a quad. I weigh 165 and was happy with the JL fins that came with it but a set of size medium Futures would have worked just as well if not better.

https://futuresfins.com/pages/finology

.
50
The Shape Shack / Reseating leash plug
« Last post by Stew on April 07, 2024, 01:36:28 AM »
Morning!

I’ve just had the leash plug rip out of my 10’ SUP. I’m looking to reset it but need some advice please.



I’ve made a couple of hollow wood boards before so have resin and fibreglass plus a bit of experience.

This board is eps and I think I need to cut a new piece out to drill a fresh hole for the plug as it seems too spacious in there to just reglue.



 I’m in the uk and trying to find a small piece of suitable grade eps or other foam seems impossible. I have no local shapers else I would ask if they could spare an off cut.

I’m wondering about cutting a block of balsa and fitting that then drilling a hole in that for the plug. All glued and glasses in and over.

Do you think that’s a suitable plan?

I’ve seen about gap filling using expanding foam but as this takes such a pounding I figure solid is better!
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