Messages

16

The Shape Shack / Re: Hand Shaping - give it a go

« on: May 07, 2019, 08:36:40 AM »

Very cool.  Looking forward to seeing some pics.

17

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: May 01, 2019, 06:15:46 PM »

I've been enjoying the board so I decided to add some traction.  Creatures "Front Deck III" up front and "The Wide" tail pad.   

18

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: May 01, 2019, 05:43:22 PM »

That paint plan looks sharp.

Thank you.   I was not a fan of the orange at first but now I really like it.   

Can anyone weigh in on how paint affects the long term integrity of the board? ie Is the bonding of glass to core affected if there is a layer of paint in between? An alternative would be to use resin based paint, or to paint the outside of the board, or go with tinted resin.

I was concerned when I first started painting my own blanks that there would be problems with the glass bonding correctly but I have not experienced any issues so far.   Many shapers air brush their boards for color before glassing.  Maybe the key is to not use too much paint.    I think resin tint is better but it adds cost and time to the glass job.  The color never comes out the way I want either.    With paint I have total control over the final look of the board (for better or worse).

 

19

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: May 01, 2019, 05:28:47 PM »

I don't know if you've met Vic who sands for Bashams, but he's a good friend of mine. We played in a band together for over 15 years.

I have not met Vic.  I mostly talk to Eric and Chuck.   

20

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: May 01, 2019, 07:48:48 AM »

I'm about ready to build a new board and San Clemente is fairly close to me so I have a few questions, por favor. Did you design it yourself with Shape 3D? Did Bashrams do everything (cut the blank, CNC shaping, color, glassing)?

I design the board in Shape 3D.   
 
Then I send the file over to Bashams via email.  You'll need to confirm what type of blank you want (stringerless 1.5# EPS in my case) and they'll get back to you with a quote for the blank and the cut.

Once ordered it took about a week for them to get the blank and CNC it.  Once ready I bring it home for a little finish sanding (doesn't require much), sealing and paint.

I usually seal my blanks with Z-Seal after sanding but skipped it on this board. 

I use DecoArt Americana Acrylic paint mixed 50-50 with water for painting the board.  I apply paint linearly with a sponge to get a resin tint effect.  It's inexpensive (I usually spend about $4 on paint) and gives a good result. 

Once paint is dry I mark my leash and fin box positions then take it back to Bashams for glassing.  I don't use handles anymore but you'll want to mark that position too.   Put a set of fins on the back of the board when determining center balance point for the handle position.

My experience with Bashams is that they have a pretty quick turnaround as long as you don't have them do any color and you keep the glass job straight forward.  My last two boards with 6+6/6 glassing (no color, no cut laps) took 2 and 3 weeks respectively.

In addition to their order sheet I give them my own order sheet showing things like type of fin boxes, lam placement etc.   I use www.boardlams.com for my lams.  See sample order sheet below...
 

21

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: April 26, 2019, 07:31:50 AM »

Sweet! Even though you're only 160, that's still some crazy low volume. What, are you an adult or a 20 year old without an ounce of fat?

Ha!  I wish.  I am 50.

Nice glass job too. What's the glassing schedule and what did Bashams charge to do it?

I have been happy with the last two glass jobs that Bashams have done.   Both of my last boards have 2x 6oz E on the top and 1x 6oz E on the bottom.    This keeps the board light but gives enough strength to withstand my typical use.   Glassing cost was $260.  This is for up to 7' Epoxy ($250) + $10 for the 2+1 setup.   The blank and hi res CNC cut were $170 so total cost for this board was $430. 

22

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: April 22, 2019, 07:14:01 AM »

Unreal.  My main prone board is a 6'10 Addvance with essentially the same volume!  How are you standing on these!??

The key for me has been moving down in very small increments.  My last 4 boards have decreased by 2-3L (3-4%) every 6 months (75L > 72L > 70L > 68L).    Small changes make the transition a lot easier.

23

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: April 19, 2019, 10:43:50 AM »

1st session this morning.   Definitely a little harder to pop up to a standing position but once standing it is stable and paddles nicely.    I need more time to dial the board in but I can already tell I am going to like this board.   

24

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: April 19, 2019, 10:33:11 AM »

How much do you weigh? Board looks good!!!

I am 160lb.

25

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: April 18, 2019, 08:37:46 PM »

Picked up the board today.  Weight is 9lbs 4oz so I am happy about that.    Bashams did a great job on the cut and the glassing.  Still deciding on what traction I want to go with so I only have wax on it right now.  Ride report (if I can stand on it) coming soon.

26

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: March 25, 2019, 07:49:50 AM »

I'm working on a Potato shape. I'm going to have Basham's cut it. I'll get Brawner to glass it. My home shop is still a big mess full of boxes. It's pissing me off, roof leaks and other home repairs keep sucking up my project time.

Very cool.  I am interested in hearing how the Brawner glass job goes.  I called them a while back to get a quote for glassing and they quoted me over $600 so I didn't pursue it any further.   

Having fun on that temporary Doheny Point Break right?

Yes!  Yesterday early morning was really fun :-) 

27

The Shape Shack / Re: Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: March 25, 2019, 07:42:24 AM »

Wow, it's amazing that you're able to SUP a board of such small dimensions...I've had surfboards darn near that size.

Cool looking board though...I like the bottom's "wavestorm" kind of look. 

Thanks.  The paint for both the Tic Tacs are based on the Odysea Log soft top.  Here's the bottom of the Tic Tac v1.

28

The Shape Shack / Latest Build ... Tic Tac Two

« on: March 24, 2019, 12:56:16 PM »

I've really been enjoying my 7-0 Tic Tac so I thought I'd build another with a few changes. 

Design Changes from 7-0 Tic Tac
- 5" shorter
- 1/4" wider
- 1/8" thicker
- Lower nose rocker
- 2+1 only (no quad option)

Build Changes
- Ordered the Marko blank and CNC cut from Bashams instead of directly from Marko.  The board was cut from a Marko Stringerless 7-0 SUP blank (1.5# EPS).   Bashams did a fabulous job for a lot less than it costs from Marko.
- Did not seal the blank with Z-Seal (I'm getting lazy).

Glassing will be 6+6/6 the same as on my 7-0 Tic Tac.   I am shooting for a finished weight under 10lb.   Not sure if skipping the sealing step will add weight.  I dropped it off for glassing earlier today so hope to have it in the water sometime in April. 

Here's the design plus a photo of the original Tic Tac.

29

SUP General / Re: Realizing a board can be TOO BIG

« on: February 20, 2019, 09:25:20 AM »

I recently stepped down from a JL SG 8'7 to a ST 7'10. I must say i had agonized about the move thinking it was going to be too small. Quite the opposite! First time out and I knew i had been on a board too big. (mind you i only weigh 155). But the feeling of control makes me realize that sometimes the larger board would get away from me. Now I know that in high winds and chop that longer waterline will come in very handy (especially I do miss the better tracking).

Give it a couple of months on the new board and you will probably feel you can go down in size again.  The smaller you go the better performance you will get.  You will notice a big jump in performance when you drop below a guild factor of 1.3.  At 155lb a GF of 1.3 would be 92L.

I feel that many people ride boards with too much volume.  If you can cruise the line up comfortably or stand without paddling then you can definitely go with a lower volume board. 

30

SUP General / Re: Double concave vs flat

« on: February 15, 2019, 07:13:48 AM »

What do you reckon the benefits are to having a longboard SUP with a double concave hull are compared to a flat hull or one with slight V.

The double increases lift and loosens up the board.    While flat bottom is theoretically faster I find that a single/double is actually faster and handles better on the types of waves I surf. 

I design most of my boards with a single (0.15" - 0.30" deep) to double with the double starting anywhere from 24"-42" from the tail and with maximum depth occurring between the fins.   The wider the board the more subtle you should make the concaves as you don't want too much lift.     

Vee helps with maneuverability but will slow you down.  It is useful if you surf waves with lots of power.  Not so good if you surf slow waves and need to generate speed.   When I do put vee in my boards it is typically only in the last 12" of the tail (usually 0.07" - .20" max vee) and/or in the first 12"-18" of the nose (usually 0.1" max vee).  Subtle rolled vee in the nose helps smooth out water surface bumps.