Standup Zone Forum
General => The Shape Shack => Topic started by: Badger on October 21, 2016, 04:54:41 AM
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I'm sick of the LiftSUP handle on my Sunova. I'd like to replace it with the Blue Planet SupGrip.
Is it a difficult job? Can the average board repair guy do it? Would I be looking at a huge labor cost if I hired someone?
I'm not sure if I have the skills to do it myself. Nor do I have the tools, but I'm open to the idea. I'm pretty good with epoxy. I've just never cut into a board before. Would it be risky as a DIY project? What tools would I need?
After watching this video, it looks like the LS handles are installed fairly permanently, with resin in the bottom of the hole. Is it even possible to get the handle out once it's installed or is that not an option?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUgKYHile1w
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Never replaced a handle, but I did just replace a FCS plug on a shortboard, and the hardest part was removing the damaged plug. I imagine a properly installed handle would be even tougher. But it's not impossible, just might take a bit of effort.
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Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SjLSfrL_5E
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The installation looks simple enough. I think I could do it.
The big question is, can the LiftSup be removed without damaging the board? Sunovas have very thin layers on the bottom. I'd hate to end up with an indentation in the bottom of the board.
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Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SjLSfrL_5E
I bought one of these handles and will be installing it this morning...I do not care for the way they install the handle in the video. I come from the perspective of windsurfing where fin boxes and mast tracks were always points of failure in both production and custom boards.
After lessons learned, I always put 3-4 layers of 4 oz clothe under whatever I'm inserting in the board. Not only under, but it comes out of the hole and laps onto the deck 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" on all sides. Seen to many plugs/finboxes/mast tracks lose bond with plastic even when meticulously prepared by sanding and chemical pre-treatment .
By putting glass under the object (and out onto the deck) you are giving some longitudinal integrity back to the deck skin. But mainly you are islolating the foam from water intrusion (even if the handle fails). And you are getting greater bonding surface to the box other than just the top face.
I believe the installer in the video put 8 layers on top of the box, and minimal filler to bond in the actual hole. Overkill on the deck, underkill in the cutout. The box itself creates a stress risers. If the bond breaks between the glass overlay and the plastic box water can enter without the owner being aware of it (under the pad) until weight change is noticeable or bubbles start manifesting themselves around the handle. By that time you have water in the board, all of which you will never get completely out.
My method is twice the trouble to that shown in the video, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
Unfortionately the design/construction of this particular box does not lend itself to a flush install using the method I use. I will not be recessing the flange but rather have it sit/bond to the deck Everything is a compromise when utilizing what is commonly available.
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Badger, you will avoid that risk by routing out your template for the new handle right through the existing handle. This would be one of those times where you make sure you wear your safety goggles, move slow and let the router do the work. You don't need a high end router, but you do need a high quality bit to get a clean cut.
Here is a handle swap I did, switching from a Futures to an FCS handle. The Futures handle was actually deeper so after routing the FCS template to depth, part of the original handle was still in place. In this case the residual piece came out easy and I filled the void with a chunk of EPS. I could have just as easily left it in place.
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Badger, you will avoid that risk by routing out your template for the new handle right through the existing handle.
Excellent. I hadn't thought of that. I knew there must be a trick. It sounds so easy I just might have to try it. Thanks.
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Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
I bought one of these handles and will be installing it this morning...I do not care for the way they install the handle in the video. I come from the perspective of windsurfing where fin boxes and mast tracks were always points of failure in both production and custom boards.
After lessons learned, I always put 3-4 layers of 4 oz clothe under whatever I'm inserting in the board. Not only under, but it comes out of the hole and laps onto the deck 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" on all sides. Seen to many plugs/finboxes/mast tracks lose bond with plastic even when meticulously prepared by sanding and chemical pre-treatment .
By putting glass under the object (and out onto the deck) you are giving some longitudinal integrity back to the deck skin. But mainly you are islolating the foam from water intrusion (even if the handle fails). And you are getting greater bonding surface to the box other than just the top face.
I believe the installer in the video put 8 layers on top of the box, and minimal filler to bond in the actual hole. Overkill on the deck, underkill in the cutout. The box itself creates a stress risers. If the bond breaks between the glass overlay and the plastic box water can enter without the owner being aware of it (under the pad) until weight change is noticeable or bubbles start manifesting themselves around the handle. By that time you have water in the board, all of which you will never get completely out.
My method is twice the trouble to that shown in the video, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
Unfortionately the design/construction of this particular box does not lend itself to a flush install using the method I use. I will not be recessing the flange but rather have it sit/bond to the deck Everything is a compromise when utilizing what is commonly available.
I like your idea of putting glass under and filling every void right to the top with resin. Does that mean that you won't be putting any glass over the exterior of the flange?
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Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SjLSfrL_5E
I bought one of these handles and will be installing it this morning...I do not care for the way they install the handle in the video. I come from the perspective of windsurfing where fin boxes and mast tracks were always points of failure in both production and custom boards.
After lessons learned, I always put 3-4 layers of 4 oz clothe under whatever I'm inserting in the board. Not only under, but it comes out of the hole and laps onto the deck 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" on all sides. Seen to many plugs/finboxes/mast tracks lose bond with plastic even when meticulously prepared by sanding and chemical pre-treatment .
By putting glass under the object (and out onto the deck) you are giving some longitudinal integrity back to the deck skin. But mainly you are islolating the foam from water intrusion (even if the handle fails). And you are getting greater bonding surface to the box other than just the top face.
I believe the installer in the video put 8 layers on top of the box, and minimal filler to bond in the actual hole. Overkill on the deck, underkill in the cutout. The box itself creates a stress risers. If the bond breaks between the glass overlay and the plastic box water can enter without the owner being aware of it (under the pad) until weight change is noticeable or bubbles start manifesting themselves around the handle. By that time you have water in the board, all of which you will never get completely out.
My method is twice the trouble to that shown in the video, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
Unfortionately the design/construction of this particular box does not lend itself to a flush install using the method I use. I will not be recessing the flange but rather have it sit/bond to the deck Everything is a compromise when utilizing what is commonly available.
I'm with you. I also glass under and lap to deck. But I do route a space for flange and go flush. I do my futures fin boxes same way too.
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Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
I bought one of these handles and will be installing it this morning...I do not care for the way they install the handle in the video. I come from the perspective of windsurfing where fin boxes and mast tracks were always points of failure in both production and custom boards.
After lessons learned, I always put 3-4 layers of 4 oz clothe under whatever I'm inserting in the board. Not only under, but it comes out of the hole and laps onto the deck 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" on all sides. Seen to many plugs/finboxes/mast tracks lose bond with plastic even when meticulously prepared by sanding and chemical pre-treatment .
By putting glass under the object (and out onto the deck) you are giving some longitudinal integrity back to the deck skin. But mainly you are islolating the foam from water intrusion (even if the handle fails). And you are getting greater bonding surface to the box other than just the top face.
I believe the installer in the video put 8 layers on top of the box, and minimal filler to bond in the actual hole. Overkill on the deck, underkill in the cutout. The box itself creates a stress risers. If the bond breaks between the glass overlay and the plastic box water can enter without the owner being aware of it (under the pad) until weight change is noticeable or bubbles start manifesting themselves around the handle. By that time you have water in the board, all of which you will never get completely out.
My method is twice the trouble to that shown in the video, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
Unfortionately the design/construction of this particular box does not lend itself to a flush install using the method I use. I will not be recessing the flange but rather have it sit/bond to the deck Everything is a compromise when utilizing what is commonly available.
I like your idea of putting glass under and filling every void right to the top with resin. Does that mean that you won't be putting any glass over the exterior of the flange?
It's glass over and under. It's very important.
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"It's glass over and under. It's very important."
Yes, that makes sense now that I think about it.
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Badger,
Be mindful that Sunova is wood over foam. A different animal when replacing handles.!! ;D ;D
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I am liking the suggestions for glass below and above the new handle.
Less chance for leaks and the handle is in the 'neutral' axis so to speak.
Badger,
Be mindful that Sunova is wood over foam. A different animal when replacing handles.!! ;D ;D
So Sunova is not a foam+glass+wood+glass 'compsand' type construction?
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Sure is.
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I'm a big fan of glassing under and over fin boxes and inserts. Wouldn't do it any other way. I like one layer of table-impregnated 4os S glass. I push the box or handle in, trim the folds out with a razor so it lies flat on the deck, add a layer of peel ply and clear plastic (so I can see if anything shifts), then stack on a square of glass and some weights. When you pull the peel ply you probably won't have to sand to get a nice surface for the top layers. Ready to go.
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Will just a basic router work to cut the hole?
If I can't find one to borrow, I don't want to spend much.
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Any router will do but you need a high quality bit, straight single fluted carbide at least 2 1/2" long.
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This tool is far less scary than a router bit biting and jumping as it goes through a handle.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-XMT03Z/205302496
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This tool is far less scary than a router bit biting and jumping as it goes through a handle.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-XMT03Z/205302496
Thanks. I need all the advice I can get.
Do you mean scary as in the router possibly damaging the board?
Can the multi tool do it all or would I still need to use a router to finish the hole?
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This tool is far less scary than a router bit biting and jumping as it goes through a handle.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-XMT03Z/205302496
Thanks. I need all the advice I can get.
Do you mean scary as in the router possibly damaging the board?
Can the multi tool do it all or would I still need to use a router to finish the hole?
Prep the opening with a multi tool as best you can. But it won't have the precision to replace a router. Multi tools are safer than routers for hogging out the old handle.
Then polish off the edges and depth with a plunge router.
If you have to ask, I'd watch someone do the routing. A plunge router with a few inches of bit sticking out is not a good way to learn about routers. They are bad news when things go sideways. Ever have a drill grab and twist in your hand? Same thing, with extreme violence and unpredictability.
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What Larry said.^
Routers take practice, and they are perhaps the most dangerous tools in the average toolbox. Like a circular saw with the guard disabled. They won't cut you quite as deep, but it's a heck of a wide kerf.
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Great advice. I'll hog it out as best I can first. Then use the router.
I have tons of things I can practice on beforehand to get some experience.
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Sorry to disagree with you, but I've routed out a few handles and if you let the tool do the work, it will not "jump around". Also, I've only used my low end, 1/4" conventional router for this process without fail. Many times I've thought about going to a 1/2" plunge router, but it just has not been necessary.
The multi-tool is the best tool for scraping the pad off however.
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I've routed out a few handles and if you let the tool do the work, it will not "jump around"...
That's just what I was thinking. Taking it real slow letting the tool do the work, a tiny bit at a time.
Good to know of the dangers too.
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Sorry to disagree with you, but I've routed out a few handles and if you let the tool do the work, it will not "jump around". Also, I've only used my low end, 1/4" conventional router for this process without fail. Many times I've thought about going to a 1/2" plunge router, but it just has not been necessary.
The multi-tool is the best tool for scraping the pad off however.
Of course it's fine if you use it right. Every tool is safe until it isn't. But how many tools do you use that have a completely exposed, razor sharp carbide bit with no guard spinning at 20,000 RPM with a two horsepower motor driving it? I've never had a problem with one. I have lots of scars from angle grinders, but angle grinders don't make me nervous. Every time I use a router I use maximum caution.
Larry is one of the finest and most experienced finish carpenters I've ever met. Looking at his tools I'd say he considers no expense is too great for the right tool and he's an absolute expert at using them. If he cautioned me about hammers I'd listen to him.
Of course he'd give me a lot of shit while he was cautioning me, but I never worry about getting grief from my friends. I spread too much of it around myself to be sensitive.
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A 1/2" plunge router and a custom jig would be better, if you're trying to knock out more than a few at a time.
Badger, you have to ask yourself one very important question, can you handle the ROUTER? Well can you!? ;D
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I recently replaced the handle on my 8'5 board and put in a Blue Planet handle. Worked perfectly and, if you are familiar with glassing, it's easy. In fact, it's the easiest handle I've ever installed. The vid on his website tells you what you need to know. Great handle too.
One extra tip: Glue it in with Gorilla Glue, don't use epoxy. Pono Bill gave me that advice and it works perfectly. Gorilla Glue avoids epoxy's endothermic reaction that will melt EPS and make a void under your handle. It expands to fill all gaps, too. Plus, it's sandable to some extent. Once the Gorilla Glue is cured and sanded, you can epoxy/glass over it as usual.
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Thanks everyone for the excellent tips.
I'm sure with practice I'll be able to handle the router alright. Once I get the hole made, the rest is easy.
I'm very familiar with glassing with epoxy. I know how it heats up. I'll look into the Gorilla glue idea. There are probably lots of different glue alternatives out there.
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I'm glad you guys like our SUPGrip handle and that you plan to install it into your board Badger.
We have routered out a LiftSUP handle and replaced with SUPGrip before and it was a pain. The LiftSUP is bigger and deeper so you would have to fill the gaps and it's difficult to router through the handle. It would be much easier to install the SUPGrip next to the existing handle if you don't mind having two handles.
If you do plan to replace the handle, I would try to remove the whole handle in one piece rather than routing through the plastic, then fill the hole with two part PU foam (or glue a piece of EPS foam into opening with gorilla glue) and then router out the new handle opening. In my opinion, putting glass under handle is not necessary, actually the wrinkled glass in the corners can create gaps and pinholes that you have to be sure to fill with thickened resin. Gorilla Glue can also work well as suggested to glue handle into the foam, most of the strength comes from glassing over the handle and making a solid connection to the deck glass.
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Holy smokes, the Liftsup is a lump!
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most of the strength comes from glassing over the handle and making a solid connection to the deck glass.
and that's the beauty of the SUP GRIP handle; it's easy to glass over. I'm much more confident in the two Blue Planet handles I've installed than any others that I, or other people, have done. It's just a more naturally watertight design.
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Finally got around to replacing the handle on my Corban Icon with the Blue Planet handle. Since it's and old banged up board I decided to try doing it as a surface mount. Clearly not as strong as a glass over but I have to say, it worked really well.
I just traced the outline of the box right on to the pad and carefully routed the old handle out. Then recessed the new handle by simply removing the remaining pad under the handle lip with a razor.
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:'(
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I considered doing mine that way, but how do you know how much resin to put in the hole?
Too little and it won't be enough create a proper seal. Too much and it oozes out onto the deck pad.
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:'(
Wow, thanks SW...
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I considered doing mine that way, but how do you know how much resin to put in the hole?
Too little and it won't be enough create a proper seal. Too much and it oozes out onto the deck pad.
As you know Badger, the BP handle has a substantial flange. So, I used the same technique as I would for a Casica surface mount vent. There is actually very little epoxy involved. Just to be clear, the entire flange is in full contact with the hard deck, not glued to the pad.
And, as I said, I would not recommend this approach, unless it was SW's board natch! ;D ;D ;D
In the meantime, it is truly a great improvement. (That's water in the picture)
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I like the bucket picture, but I have to agree with Bean, the BP handle certainly can be surface mounted. Over time the strains on the handle might create a flange leak, but it would be a long time. Can't say that I would do it that way, but yeah, it will work. If I were going to do it I wouldn't use ANY epoxy, just Gorilla glue all the way. Inside and on the flange.
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I thought about using G-Glue. I can't emphasize enough (for anyone that has not seen this handle in person), the flange actually provides nearly a 1/2" overlap joint.
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Personally I would not recommend this in such a high traffic area. The bond between epoxy and plastic is never great and the handle is only offering support through the bonding of its self to the epoxy and in a short space of time I think you will find the deck will move enough to break the bond under the lip and then leak. I would keep a very close eye on it or re install it. I have seen leaks around bonds to plastic too many times.
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I considered doing mine that way, but how do you know how much resin to put in the hole?
Too little and it won't be enough create a proper seal. Too much and it oozes out onto the deck pad.
As you know Badger, the BP handle has a substantial flange. So, I used the same technique as I would for a Casica surface mount vent. There is actually very little epoxy involved. Just to be clear, the entire flange is in full contact with the hard deck, not glued to the pad.
I still don't understand how you did it.
Did you pour epoxy into the hole or just put some under the flange?
Did you line the hole with glass or just use resin?
Did you use anything to thicken the resin such as Colloidal Silica?
I agree with supuk. Epoxy and plastic don't bond well. The entire hole surrounding the handle from top to bottom needs to be sealed or water might easily find a way in.
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Did you pour epoxy into the hole or just put some under the flange?
Just applied epoxy to the flange
Did you line the hole with glass or just use resin?
Neither
Did you use anything to thicken the resin such as Colloidal Silica?
No
I agree with supuk. Epoxy and plastic don't bond well. The entire hole surrounding the handle from top to bottom needs to be sealed or water might easily find a way in.
Plastic and epoxy don't always work well together, but in this case I would respectfully disagree. In fact, I could not separate the handle from the board at this point without peeling up the deck with it. It's a 1/2" lap joint, total overkill.
Thanks for your concerns Badger, if it starts to leak or fail in any way, I will be sure to give an update. This is a very low cost trial, with very little consequence. I'm not surfing Mavericks or crossing the Atlantic. The real story is, the Icon finally received a useful handle (and, in less than 20 min.)
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Did you pour epoxy into the hole or just put some under the flange?
Just applied epoxy to the flange
Did you line the hole with glass or just use resin?
Neither
Did you use anything to thicken the resin such as Colloidal Silica?
No
I agree with supuk. Epoxy and plastic don't bond well. The entire hole surrounding the handle from top to bottom needs to be sealed or water might easily find a way in.
Plastic and epoxy don't always work well together, but in this case I would respectfully disagree. In fact, I could not separate the handle from the board at this point without peeling up the deck with it. It's a 1/2" lap joint, total overkill.
Thanks for your concerns Badger, if it starts to leak or fail in any way, I will be sure to give an update. This is a very low cost trial, with very little consequence. I'm not surfing Mavericks or crossing the Atlantic. The real story is, the Icon finally received a useful handle (and, in less than 20 min.)
I'm not concerned about your board. All I'm interested in is how you did it.
Sounds like you only epoxied beneath the flange. That certainly would make the installation a lot easier and save a ton of time. As long as it keeps the water out, that's all that matters. It will be a good experiment.
Edit - I just noticed that you answered my questions inside my quote. I almost missed it. In the future you might try using a different color font.
I think I would have gone a step further and poured some epoxy in the hole to help anchor the base of the handle.
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....I think I would have gone a step further and poured some epoxy in the hole to help anchor the base of the handle.
If I were doing a flush mount, (FCS, Futures, etc.) that's exactly what I would need to do. But since I did a surface mount, I'm relying on the substantial lap joint (at the deck). I don't add anything to the epoxy when I'm using it as an adhesive.
The pocket that I cut through the deck and foam was also sufficiently tight to use straight epoxy. BTW, so far 5 hours or so of wintertime use w/o issue. We'll see how she does long term.
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I think it will work just fine assuming that your deck is not soft and that you don't fall or jump around close to the handle.
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Personally I would not recommend this in such a high traffic area. The bond between epoxy and plastic is never great and the handle is only offering support through the bonding of its self to the epoxy and in a short space of time I think you will find the deck will move enough to break the bond under the lip and then leak. I would keep a very close eye on it or re install it. I have seen leaks around bonds to plastic too many times.
That's why I would just use Gorilla glue. The epoxy will get harder over time and be more likely to fracture. Polyurethane stays slightly flexible and expands to fill all the voids. It would give a good bond between the EPS and the handle plastic that would be strong and largely waterproof even without the flange. With that 1/2" flange you have a lot of grip. You could also use JB Weld Plastic weld for a better bond on the flange, but it doesn't foam and expand like Gorilla Glue does, so it wouldn't give the void filling bond to the eps.
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I think it will work just fine assuming that your deck is not soft and that you don't fall or jump around close to the handle.
It's funny, once I opened up the board I could feel the total loss of rigidity in the deck. But after the install, once cured, the deck was back to normal.
Bill your comment about the relative flexibility is well received.
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Personally I would not recommend this in such a high traffic area. The bond between epoxy and plastic is never great and the handle is only offering support through the bonding of its self to the epoxy and in a short space of time I think you will find the deck will move enough to break the bond under the lip and then leak. I would keep a very close eye on it or re install it. I have seen leaks around bonds to plastic too many times.
That's why I would just use Gorilla glue. The epoxy will get harder over time and be more likely to fracture. Polyurethane stays slightly flexible and expands to fill all the voids. It would give a good bond between the EPS and the handle plastic that would be strong and largely waterproof even without the flange. With that 1/2" flange you have a lot of grip. You could also use JB Weld Plastic weld for a better bond on the flange, but it doesn't foam and expand like Gorilla Glue does, so it wouldn't give the void filling bond to the eps.
I would use gorilla glue for installing the handle in a conventional way if the routed hole was a poor fit as like you say it expands and also penetrates the foam however if its only a small gap epoxy and micro balloons is a lot easier as you can just wipe of any over flow. Personally I would not trust gorilla glue to be water tight on its own as when it expands it makes lots of bubbles which can often create voids as it blows out. You would also want to key up the handle very well before using it as gorilla glue or any glue or resin will crack right off that shiny surface, but like you say it will depend on the flexibility of the glue.
Generally leaks happen around were you have something hard meeting something soft on a board. fin boxes, foot straps inserts, air vents , leash plugs, drain holes ect ect. I see this sort of thing happen all the time working doing board repair, I had one that had a leaking foot strap insert on a windsurf board and due to the constant movement of the deck due to the riders weight it had basically sucked a huge amount of water in and completely broken down the foam under the standing area . The board now hangs on the wall as a demonstration to customers to show what can happen when you get a leak.
It maybe worth doing a water/dishsoap test and putting the board in the sun to cheque that you have a perfect seal at the moment and then regular after every use of so as you wont be able to see easily when it does start leaking.
I'm glad you have done it and shared and very interested to hear how it lasts as a experiment but I really wouldn't recommend anyone to install one like this, its just asking for trouble.
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I'm banking on the simple premise that a 1/2 inch FLP (lap joint) will outperform a butt joint. And you brought up a good point SU, I did key both surfaces with 80 grit, and there was naturally a good contour match.
But again, thanks for the constructive feedback all.
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Took the board out his morning and while the handle is not leaking, the deck surrounding it does feel a bit softer. I would venture to say with that amount of movement, as others have pointed out, eventually the mechanical bond between the deck and plastic handle will likely fail.
I hate to be the example of how not to do it, but around here, I've gotten used to it. My fail is a great illustration of why the Blue Planet install video suggests so many layers of glass and I will definitely follow that on my next install. Might be sooner than later. ;D
In the meantime, the handle itself is a huge improvement over the other that I've used.
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Bean, thanks for the update.
It takes courage to tell the gang on the interweb that a project did not go as planned.
I cannot think of a single build thread I have done that does not have some cautionary tale where I messed up and had to go back and fix things.
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Easy fix, though perhaps not pretty. If it's not leaking now there's no reason to let it go.
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I need to replace the handle on my 9' Hobie.
I don't want to strip the entire deckpad off so removal of some deckpad around the handle is my biggest concern because it needs to be cut in a way that's super clean and large enough so I can...
a) Have room to cut out the old handle.
b) Have room to rout out the area where the new handle will go.
c) Have room to put a couple layers of cloth on top of the new handle.
d) Have enough room to sand the new cloth smooth.
e) Glue a new piece of deckpad in place when the job is done.
Has anyone cut out a section of deckpad with a router? If that works then I could make an oval shaped template out of plywood so the cut is super clean. Anyone?
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I need to replace the handle on my 9' Hobie.
I don't want to strip the entire deckpad off so removal of some deckpad around the handle is my biggest concern because it needs to be cut in a way that's super clean and large enough so I can...
a) Have room to cut out the old handle.
b) Have room to rout out the area where the new handle will go.
c) Have room to put a couple layers of cloth on top of the new handle.
d) Have enough room to sand the new cloth smooth.
e) Glue a new piece of deckpad in place when the job is done.
Has anyone cut out a section of deckpad with a router? If that works then I could make an oval shaped template out of plywood so the cut is super clean. Anyone?
you can use a router but far easier and safer just with a Stanley and a fresh blade then just peel it back, a template is a good idea so you can use it to cut the new pice of pad at the end. Start undersize and you can always go larger. A 90deg die grinder with sanding pad is your tool for this job as you can get it in there without touching the edges of the pad.
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If your deck pad is really stuck, a vibrating tool (whatever they call those things) with a knife blade is the easiest way I've found to get it off cleanly. I wouldn't try routing. The thickness of fiberglass on a surfboard is less than the likely error band of routing through a deck pad. Good chance of taking a small job and making it big.
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I agree, a multi-tool with a scraper blade has been the easiest way to remove pads. The area that you need to remove is based upon the size of your router base and size of the new handle. Measure the room you need front to back taking these two into account. I would use a straight edge and pre-cut two parallel lines, using your measurement, across the pad, and then scrape the pad off in between, leaving a nice squared off band across the deck. Once you have the handle installed, you could replace the pad with a similar or contrasting piece of pad.
By the way, after about a dozen hours on the water (surfing), the handle is still solid! The superior quality of the handle continues to withstand my inferior installation process. ;D
I'm glad you will be doing the right-job on your install Magenta.
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Thanks for replying, guys.
1) My real concern isn't removing the section of deckpad because I should be able to do that with a thin putty knife and acetone. IF that ends up being a major pain, which multi-tool blade on this page http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multitool would you recommend for getting under the pad?
2) The only part that concerns me about this entire job is making a clean oval shaped cut (or whatever the shape) into the deckpad in a way that won't cut into the deck. Maybe I'm being paranoid here but what do you think about this? Make the initial cuts with a new blade in my utility knife (using a template) and then grind the tip of the blade off so it's rounded and dull for subsequent cuts?
3) supuk: Would you use the 90 degree die grinder with sanding pad to literally sand/grind out the deckpad AFTER cutting the shape out with the utility knife?
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Deck pad cuts like butter with a good new sharp blade you shouldn't need to press so hard you go through the hot coat or glass.
Remove the pad what ever way you like depending on skill level and what tools you have. plastic scraper or sander work on small areas multi tool and the flat scraper blades work good if you need to do large areas. You shouldn't find it to hard to get a good fit when replacing the pad just cut it a fraction oversize and squeeze it in.
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easy plug handle
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easy plug handle
You mean put two leash plugs in with loops of line and use my paddle as a handle? If that's what you're talking about... my first sup had that and I liked it better than handles but was always a little paranoid of going over the falls with my big toe stuck in one of the loops.
Thanks everyone for your input. I tend to fixate on little things sometimes so this discussion helped me get past that.
Now I just need to find a small piece of deckpad before I can start...