Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Gear Talk => Topic started by: surfafrica on September 27, 2016, 12:52:19 PM
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After a summer of small surf, I think it's time to get a longboard SUP to make the most of the conditions. I just sold my 8'6 RNB which was too big for me (8'6 x 30, 118 L) to a fellow Zoner. This time, I'd like to go low volume to really get a surfy feel. I'm thinking 8'10 x 26, 88 L. I'm 5'7 and 145 lbs.
Here's a pic of the design (I'm working with Kyle from Kronos):
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I love my longboard sup its 9'7 x 27" and surf anything from ankle to overhead !
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I'm thinking 8'10 x 26, 88 L.
How thick in inches will the sup have to be in order for it to have a volume of 88 liters?
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I'm not sure how thick it'll be. Maybe 3 3/4 or so? I rarely look at that number because the foam can really be distributed in different ways. I kind of use the volume in relation to the length/width/shape to get a feel for that spec (if that makes sense).
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At those dimensions, you'd have a pretty easy time buying a normal longboard off the shelf and taking a paddle with you. :)
Here's a Weber Feather Fastback (6'6") That looks pretty close to where you're headed.
(https://www.deweyweber.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/6.6-Feather-Fastback-Coke-Bottle-Green-Tint-full.jpg)
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8'10 is still fairly short for a longboard i would go a little longer to get more of the traditional and strighter outline. narrow definitely makes a big difference so stick with that.
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At those dimensions, you'd have a pretty easy time buying a normal longboard off the shelf and taking a paddle with you. :)
Funny enough, this summer, I SUPed a session on my buddy's Walden Mega-Magic (9'0 x 24, 95 L)--a big guy longboard. It was TOUGH. I could stand on it, but barely. I definitely had the wobbly chicken legs going. I managed to catch a couple waves, but it sure was a lot of work. It was way less stable than my small SUP (7'5 x 26, 87 L).
8'10 is still fairly short for a longboard i would go a little longer to get more of the traditional and strighter outline. narrow definitely makes a big difference so stick with that.
I used to have an 8'10 longboard (a Harbour Merlin). I went with 8'10 based off of Rich Harbour's recommendation for length based on my height/weight. But ya, for this SUP I was thinking maybe 9'0, but any other longboard I've tried over 9'2 seemed really long for me (I'm short and light).
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Do you want a noserider or a high performance longboard?
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88 liters
The old Surftech CJ Nelson Noserider, 10' was 88 liters.
10' C.J. Nelson Surftech Noserider
Nose Width 20"
Mid Width 24.25"
Tail Width 17.13"
Thickness 2.88"
Volume (L) 77.6
Volume probably not distributed right to SUP it & a bit too narrow.
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Do you want a noserider or a high performance longboard?
Something in between (I think). I think I'm leaning towards something with a bit of a performance feel that has some glide and room to move around a bit on the deck. I do like it when boards feel a bit agile, but I won't be hitting the lip or anything....bottom turn, trim, some fun little turns maybe. Oh don't get me wrong, if the conditions line up, I'll try to get up for a cheater five, but I don't have big hopes.
We mainly surf beach breaks so it'll be rare that I get this out on a nice running point.
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Not sure if this translates well to longboard SUPs, but here is the size scale put together by Rich Harbour. I used it to pick 8'10 (I'm 145 lbs).
120-130: 8'6
130-140: 8'8
140-150: 8'10
150-160: 9'0
160-165: 9'2
165-170: 9'4
170-180: 9'6
180-190: 9'8
200-210: 10'0
210-220: 10'2
220-230: 10'4
230-250: 10'6
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At 250# I was fine on a Weber 10' stylist, which would have much more parallel rails than your CAD rendering. The board you've drawn and the Feather Fastback I've shown both have more curve in both the nose and tail. I always wanted to blow that board up to SUP size, and have a pretty close effort in my sup sports Stoke.
In all honesty, I love the board you've got going there. It looks like a real winner, and something I could scale up for use at my size. Looks like you're at a ratio of about 1.35L to your kilos in a very surfable concept.
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surfafrica, Really interesting stuff! I am 5'8" and weigh 150. In my prone days I had a new issue Dewey Weber that was 8'8" (ESA longboard rules 3' over your head) and it worked fine.
Two summers ago I owned a Laird Firefish 8'6" x 28.5" x 103 liters that behaved suspiciously like a short longboard or a funboard NOT like a fish at all.
If you are looking for glide slightly longer will give it to you. Thin is good. Gives you the ability to surf a longer board with some style..
Good luck 🍀 with your design! It will work given your height and weight. Any tweaking would be minor..
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I watching this closely. I'm about to move my prone sessions from my 8' Wavestorm foamie back to my 9'6" Tudor. I'm your size and I love the extra length for those weird drop the tail turns.
Keep us posted on the width. I'm personally worried that to get the round 50/50 rails I want that 26" will be too tippy. I can't really see from the drawing. Are you doing a flat bottom (HPLB) or more hull-ish like a nose rider?
Love that you are doing this.
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I've been riding these two for the last couple weeks. Pretty nice production shapes and light too.
http://www.rivierapaddlesurf.com/products/the-boss
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Dave Daum of King's Paddlesports is working a "hybrid" longboard ... wide enough to paddle surf but not too wide for proning.
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Do you want a noserider or a high performance longboard?
Something in between (I think). I think I'm leaning towards something with a bit of a performance feel that has some glide and room to move around a bit on the deck. I do like it when boards feel a bit agile, but I won't be hitting the lip or anything....bottom turn, trim, some fun little turns maybe. Oh don't get me wrong, if the conditions line up, I'll try to get up for a cheater five, but I don't have big hopes.
We mainly surf beach breaks so it'll be rare that I get this out on a nice running point.
The CAD drawing is definitely a hp longboard shape. To get a noserider out of the blank used in the CAD, you would actually reverse the rocker.
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Are you doing a flat bottom (HPLB) or more hull-ish like a nose rider?
From the designer's mouth: "smooth and mild vee or vee inside concave at the tail with a minor concave in the middle. Small squash tail."
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I'm thinking 8'10 x 26, 88 L.
How thick in inches will the sup have to be in order for it to have a volume of 88 liters?
Aloha Night Wing,
FYI, I've built several Hammer Surf/SUP X-Over boards scaled down from the 8'11" Hammer SUP that you are riding...which as you are aware, we thinned out for you from stock sizing...
surfafrica's board will be much thinner than the 3.75" that he suggested...from my CAD shaping calcs it will probably be closer to 3"...
I'm riding a 7'11" x 25" x 3.5" Hammer "crowd pleaser" secret weapon that nets out at 86.5 liters...
We built one for a guy in Florida at 8' x 26" x 3.5" that netted out at 90 liters...
This thread with pics of these boards was from 2014...
http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,25931.0.html
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Thanks guys, I looked on a bigger screen (ok, I put on my glasses) and got a better look at the bottom, def HP.
I'm thinking that my 50/50 hull bottom won't really work for standing on for any real length of time. The bottom reminds me of a Walden, which are super fun boards.
Love the Kronos Guy's stuff glad you found someone to work with and try some stuff that the big brands aren't doing. But as I say this, I'm thinking of the fact that after all the threads and all the time we are here talking about making a board pretty much like Laird and Dave Kalama rode on day one of SUP, a tandem longboard. Infinity is stoked!!!!!
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Yes, the technology didn't need to change (for long boards) we just needed our skills to catch up.
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Here's another data point:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oDARs89wD6I/UMoE4Lf7sYI/AAAAAAAAOUc/DEMttvLGs_o/s320/tipsup.jpg)
http://srfnff.blogspot.com/2012/12/l41-tipsup-worlds-first-dedicated-sup.html (http://srfnff.blogspot.com/2012/12/l41-tipsup-worlds-first-dedicated-sup.html)
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surfafrica's board will be much thinner than the 3.75" that he suggested...from my CAD shaping calcs it will probably be closer to 3"...
Yep, WD is right. I talked with Kyle @ Kronos. Looks like it'll be about 3.2" thick. The current design is sitting at: 8'10 x 26.5 x 3.2, 88 L.
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Do you want a noserider or a high performance longboard?
Implies they are mutually exclusive. It seems from this topic that high performance excludes any board over 27 inches wide? However, your Surf is wider and you regard it well. Can you explain again why this is so?
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Keep us posted on the width. I'm personally worried that to get the round 50/50 rails I want that 26" will be too tippy.
are 50/50 rails supposed to be tippy? my JL BnB has true 50/50 rails from stem to stern and it's the most forgiving board I've had. otoh, I had an L41 longboard SUP with hard turned down step rails and I could not stand on that for more than a few seconds, more or less -- and it was supposed to be super stable. i dunno. could just be me.
hope to see you at San O this winter .... assuming I'm allowed back in!
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Linter, I think the JL B&B get's it's stability from the parallel rails (full nose and tail) and flat rocker.
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outline and width will be the largest factor in surf board stability, the more rocker generally the more stable you will be as you efectivly lower your centre of gravity.
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Jimmy is a great guy. Wiil talk with you about boards. Black and Blue 10' x 31" x 4.25" x 164 liters; Black and Blue 9'6" x 28.5" x 3.5" x 117 liters. One is,a performance noserider and one isn't!
Jimmy told me he shaped the smaller one for his brother, but it was too tippy for him which led to the BEEG WAN. Recently, a third has been added. Not sure of the dims, but I believe it is between the two existing models..
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outline and width will be the largest factor in surf board stability, the more rocker generally the more stable you will be as you efectivly lower your centre of gravity.
Interesting observation on the rocker Supuk, and I would agree as long as the nose and tail are contacting the water, adding to the stability.
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I've been thinking about volume a lot lately....probably too much....but hey, I'm dryland right now recovering from a shoulder surgery, so over analyzing this sh-t keeps me engaged!
Every time I've dropped down a step in volume, I've loved the result. I love the feeling of a low volume board on a wave and I'm OK to work a bit for it (within limits...not looking to stand calf high in water or anything, but getting my feet wet is fine). With this longboard, I really want to have a refined, fine-railed ride.
My latest thought is to bring the volume of this new longboard down a touch to 85 L.
Original plan... 8'10 x 26.5 x 3.2, 88 L
New plan?...... 8'10 x 26.5 x 3.?, 85 L
I know it's a small adjustment, but I think on a relative note, it could have a little bit of an impact.
My reasoning: I float pretty well on my 87 L board (see pic below) and the longboard will have much more surface area to give some added stability. At 155 lbs (70.3 kg) including wetsuit, 85 L puts me on a V/W ratio of 1.21, which I think is a totally reasonable number to float me (I consider myself a mid to upper intermediate, but who knows). 87 L would have a ratio of 1.24. Not a huge difference, I guess. I know 87 L floats me, I'm just not sure how that volume (or 85 L) will translate to a longboard vs my board below.
I know some guys like fuller-volumed boards to really cruise, but I'm curious to hear from some of you guys out there riding 9'+ boards at ratios of 1.2 or less (including wetsuit, if applicable). How do you like the lower volume longboards? Are you ankle deep in water? Do you notice a performance gain on them? Again, I'm OK to work for it...I don't mind falling in, and I think I'm OK to sink a bit deeper than on my 87 L board below (which just has the deck with a skiff of water on it).
I'll talk to my shaper about it too, but curious to hear others' experiences.
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I chatted with the shaper today after sending him a picture of me standing on my 87 L board. He thinks if I'm game, I should try 84 L with the new longboard. Some interesting insight from him for those interested:
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A board with more surface area will provide more stability than a smaller board at equal volume, this is true. But boards with more surface area require more volume to have good glide (imagine paddling a 14’ race board that’s so submerged that water is coming over the deck)--as the board’s volume decreases and it sinks lower in the water, you have to push more of it’s surface area through the water.
My ideal ratio is 1.1 (including 13 lbs for board, paddle, fins, etc). I’ve experimented with a lot more and a lot less and that’s what I like. But everyone is different.
The only thing you left out is board weight (which is optional) but which we can include to be extra precise/thorough. Let’s see what we have:
Your weight w/wetsuit..... 155 lbs
+ board/fins/paddle/etc.... 15 lbs
................................. = 170 lbs (77 kg)
Current board = 87 L
Ratio = 87/77 = 1.13
Have you double checked how much your wetsuit weighs? I used to weigh mine right after getting out of the water post-surf and it was like 3 lbs (that smoothskin suit soaked almost no water). Looking at how submerged/floating the 87 L board is in your attached photo, I’d guesstimate that you’re running at more than 1.13. To answer your question, I think we can drop the volume to 84 L no problem. It’ll help with your progression, and the board will still have good glide.
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If I reduce my wetsuit to 5 lbs, I'd get:
My weight w/wetsuit......... 150 lbs
+ board/fins/paddle/etc...... 15 lbs
................................... = 165 lbs (74.8 kg)
Current board = 87 L (7'5 x 26)
Ratio = 87/74.8 = 1.16
New longboard = 84 L (8'10 x 26.5)
Ratio = 84/74.8 = 1.12
My 87 L board barely has water coming over the deck. So I think I'd like to give 84 L a try - 8'10 x 26.5, 84 L. I want to push myself with this one.
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I think you should go with the lower volume option. As you stated: "Every time I've dropped down a step in volume, I've loved the result." Your 87L floats you very well, I don't think you'd have too much problem adjusting to an 84L board.
Note that as you get lower in L/KG ratio small differences in volume (and width) start to become more noticeable. For example I can stand on my 6-6 x 28 x 87L for long periods without the paddle in the water. It is super stable. My 6-10 x 27 x 84L takes a bit more work even though it is only 3L less. For reference I am 160lb with wetsuit.
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anon, after this longboard project, I think my next one will be a performance shortboard SUP--I've never tried one. I think my NB has been a good gateway drug. If I'm every down at Thor's Hammer, I'm going to touch base with you with offers of burgers and beer. I'd die to try some of your boards. Not many people out there using the size ratios you are using. I'd probably start my shortboard project thinking in the 7'4 x 27, 80 L range, but I'm so curious on how going shorter and thicker like your sub-7s would feel.
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most of your stability will come from the outline and length and width. I do all my boards at the same volume which is about 1.09 X Longboards with a large surface area give a lot of extra stability don't worry to much about dropping the volume
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If I'm every down at Thor's Hammer, I'm going to touch base with you with offers of burgers and beer. I'd die to try some of your boards.
You are welcome to try any of my boards. Definitely let me know if you are in south OC, California.
but I'm so curious on how going shorter and thicker like your sub-7s would feel.
My preference is shorter lengths with a little extra thickness (within reason). I find that a shorter board is much more maneuverable than an equivalent volume longer, thinner board. A little extra foam between your feet it is a lot easier to throw around than having that same foam 3ft+ out in front of you.
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I was just reading through a thread by @supsurf-tw and it sparked a question I have about what to choose for a 2+1 setup for this board.
@supsurf-tw - http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,30430.msg332853.html#msg332853
Sorry for the repeat post, but thought I might get some good insight from the folks subscribed to this thread.
I've settled on 8'10 x 26.5, 84 L for this longboard SUP, and I'm 145 lbs. I usually ride quads, but am looking to ride this new one as a 2+1 (although I'm getting quad + 1 boxes put in). I was thinking of going with a 6"-7" center fin but am unsure how to approach the sidebites. Should I go for a similar size as my front quads? Or do I go for a smaller set of sidebites on a 2+1?
Here's the set I am eyeing - https://3dfins.com/collections/sup/products/fastlight-surfsup-2-1-medium-fcs-compat
Center: 6.25"
Sides: 4.56" (high) x 4.34" (base)
But, with my weight should I be looking for something more like 3.5" sides?
My gut is that with the added width of a SUP (and more foam in general vs a prone longboard), having a little extra fin is the way to go. Am I on the right track?
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...or smaller sidebites like this - http://www.trueames.com/collections/side-bites-1/products/side-bite-3-7-futures-compatible
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I'd start with 3.5" (GL) sidebites.
Smaller will probably be better if you want more speed.
Larger will probably slow you down.
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If it's a high performance longboard style, not a nose rider, then don't go bigger than 6" for the center fin and 3.5" for the sidebites. I have a prone longboard with a similar setup, and it's 22 inches wide. At 26.5 inches wide for the board the tail won't be too wide if it's a typically pulled in performance LB shape.
If anything, go bigger on the side fins and smaller in the middle fin.
PS -- thanks for the input on my new Popdart. Going to pick it up this week!
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Thanks guys. Here's what I'm going to go with:
6.25" Center
3.57" Sides
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Just got my first pic of the new LB. I'm psyched to see the rails.
Kronos Longboard SUP
8'10 x 26.5, 84 L
12.75 lbs
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This looks great!
I missed this thread for a while so I'll post up.
Totally agree on the lower volume I'm interested in the lower limits. SupUK has been all over this for years.
Linter, on the 50/50 rails I think it's more the whole bottom that I'm really thinking of. 50/50 with a flat bottom and good volume placement is probably fine, as you say. I'm actually a bit off the deep end thinking of a true round bottom soft rail LB where you see the bottom almost as a convex saucer where the rocker and a rounded bottom flow right into the rail. It probably would be impossible to paddle but I'm really chasing that Wingnut style step back turn.
For now, I'll stay on the prone longboards for a bit and see where that takes me.
Love this board, can't wait to see it in the water.
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Just got my first pic of the new LB. I'm psyched to see the rails.
Kronos Longboard SUP
8'10 x 26.5, 84 L
12.75 lbs
Looks great. What was your glassing schedule?
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It’s 6/6 on top and 6 on the bottom with an aramid vector net/carbon strip layer. Vacuum bagged.
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Any ride reports yet? 8)
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Any ride reports yet? 8)
Nope. It'll be a while as I work through my shoulder injury recovery. I'm hoping for March.
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I'm still 2 weeks from picking mine up, but a report has come in on this shape. The full carbon on the right is 8'8 x 25, 86 L. It comes in at 9 lbs (9 lbs...wtf!). Mine is 8'10 x 26.5, 84 L @ 12.75 lbs.
Here's a report from the owner of the carbon:
"The light weight of this board makes it feel like there is hardly any swing weight and it just lets you surf it quicker with faster reaction. I’m not a noserider guy so I can appreciate this. Something interesting I've found is that more liters does not give me more stability. I rode another board same shape/brand that was 9' and about 8-10 more liters and I felt a little less stable than mine since mine settles more in the water. Paddling through the white water was a breeze and would punch right under or over without kicking back at me. Good amount of tail rocker really allows you to step back and crank the board around quickly. I could surf this thing aggressively and have all the confidence. The performance was unreal and completely shocked me. I can confidently say that I will ride this board easily as much as I ride my shorter SUPs."
I was curious if there was any downside to the full carbon being too stiff (maybe chatter?). Here's what he said:
"Downside to carbon, I don't know. I think I need more time on my boards to know better but for now, I don't see any. Obviously flex must be important but I just don't feel the difference. The 2nd day I was out it was not even semi-glassy. There was a little bit of chop but not much and it seemed just as smooth as any other board would, actually this board seemed smoother but I think that's due to the natural shape of this board."
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Board: Kronos Longboard - 8'10 x 26.5, 84 L, 13 lbs
Fins: 3D Fins 2 + 1 - 6.25" center, 4.42" sides
Rider: 43, 5'7, 148 lbs, intermediate
Well, it's been a long time coming, but I finally got on my new longboard. We just got back from a great 10-day trip in Mexico. We primarily surfed a long mellow left point break, but also had some sessions on a faster beach break and a meatier right sand bar. We didn't bring our GoPros out, but my friend's wife managed to capture a few pics.
When conditions were above chest high on the left point break, I took out my 7'5, but for a couple of sessions, it dropped to knee to chest. In those smaller conditions, the longboard turned what would have been forgetful sessions into an absolute blast. It was so much fun gliding down the line and walking on the deck (as best as my limited skill set would allow me to).
I also took it out for one session in some bigger conditions on a right sand bar. The waves were probably head high to slightly overhead and were thick and rolled in nicely. They had quite a bit of volume and a big open faces (not steep). Surfing the longboard on it felt like snowboarding on a big open blue corduroy run. In my mind, I was on the face of Waimea on a 9-foot gun!
The volume of the longboard (84 L) worked well for me. The tail sank and my feet were getting wet, but the nose sat nicely out of the water. There is something to be said for having some added stability with water over the rails. It think we picked the right width too. It wasn't couch comfortable (ie my legs were working), but I could stand on it without paddling and talk with my buddies in the lineup without problems. With a couple of strokes, I was off and gliding to make a go for a wave.
I think this longboard is the right level of stability vs surfability for my skill-level. On the wave, it felt like a surfboard vs that bargy feel you can sometimes get on SUPs. Those thin rails are fun fun fun. The rocker and outline on it feels right. It has a nice glide, trims well, and can easily be turned with a slight step to the tail.
The construction felt really solid too--harder than my other customs. This one has a different construction than my other Kronos. The glassing schedule is 6/6 on top and 6 on the bottom with an aramid vector net and carbon strip layer. It was vacuum bagged. It looks even cooler in person than in the pics. It has a nice feel to it in the hand and standing on it out in the water. It has a bit more weight to it than my smaller boards, but for it's size/shape, it feels plenty light.
I put Hexatration on it. On it's own, it wasn't quite grippy enough with bare feet for me so I put a very light skiff of base coat wax over the Hex and it felt pretty good. A couple of other guys were using full wax on their boards, and in the Mexican heat, they had a hard time keeping wax under their feet in standing position (we don't have to worry about that up here at our local breaks!). The Hex had no issues there--the light base coat of wax lasted on it all week and the grip of Hex itself was pretty good on its own. The Hex was a bit rough on my belly when I pulled myself up on it. I think up here at our local breaks, it'll be great with my wetsuit and booties. I still think FCS dimple pad in the standing position is my favorite setup though for grip & comfort. I will likely throw Hex down between the tail pad and center dimple pad on my other boards though.
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great looking board and waves...so envious your entire quiver doesnt have a 3rd digit for volume :o :o
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Sounds like it worked for you. And your shoulder is better! Great news..
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Hey SA, nice stick!
Always awesome when the new board is as good as you hoped!
I agree that FCS Dimple Pad is the best.... it's so light that I am curious why you don't also use it between the standing pad and tailpad... probably a few ounces.
Can't wait to see some LB vids.
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Great looking board and great write up :-)
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From another thread:
BTW, that was a nice review with a nice shot of the underside of your new Kronos in the link you provided. Do you have a link to where you got your new Kronos from?
He doesn't have a website. I "met" him on Instagram. He's a great guy and LOVES board design. He experiments with shapes and construction which I really appreciate. He's based in San Diego.
https://www.instagram.com/kronos_surf/
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I like a little wax on the hexatraction too. Lasts forever. Then again, I wax EVA pads for the same reason--a little more stick and it doesn't move around under your feet.
Great looking board. I doubt I'd be happy with that low a volume, but you've got me thinking. Mr. Foote is a master of the dropped rail. A little more volume in the middle to keep my ankles dry, but thinned down from what the production 10'4" Triton is, then dropped to a tight 50/50 and maybe an inch narrower.
OK, gotta do that.
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I agree that FCS Dimple Pad is the best.... it's so light that I am curious why you don't also use it between the standing pad and tailpad... probably a few ounces.
Long answer: At first I was going to go with my usual grip setup on the longboard (tail pad, dimple pad center, and wax everywhere else). Then I got 2 packs of Hexatraction for Christmas (may have been due to some heavy hinting by me after reading the Hexatraction thread here). At that point, the idea was to still put on the tail and center dimple pad and then just use the Hex everywhere else. But then when I picked up the board, it looked so nice with the full white deck (it looks cooler in person than in the pics--the white kevlar mesh is subtle but looks cool). I thought I'd maintain the "pureness" of the deck and go with full Hex. Add to that that I only have enough dimple pad left for one more board and I think I want to get a traditional shortboard shape within a year (my 7'5 Cornice shape has been a bit of a gateway drug for me). At the end of the day, I'm happy I went full Hex on this one. I really appreciate the clean look on this longboard and the traction worked well in the tropics with just a tiny bit of base coat wax over the Hex. I'm guessing when I'm in my wetsuit and booties (majority of the time I surf), it'll be great.
Short answer: vanity
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From another thread: BTW, that was a nice review with a nice shot of the underside of your new Kronos in the link you provided. Do you have a link to where you got your new Kronos from?
He doesn't have a website. I "met" him on Instagram. He's a great guy and LOVES board design. He experiments with shapes and construction which I really appreciate. He's based in San Diego.
https://www.instagram.com/kronos_surf/
Thanks for the info. I've filed it for future reference.
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You know it's all relative. What is low volume for you is still appropriate for your weight and size. The board turned out fantastic, and if it surfs good, all the better. Great thread!
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You know it's all relative. What is low volume for you is still appropriate for your weight and size. The board turned out fantastic, and if it surfs good, all the better. Great thread!
Thanks.
And ya, I agree. It's all relative and my low weight makes the volumes appear lower than they really are. At 148 lbs (67 kg), the v/w ratio of this board for me is 84L/67kg = 1.25. So for bigger guys, this board would translate to:
165 lbs - 93 L
185 lbs - 105 L
205 lbs - 116 L
225 lbs - 127 L
At this ratio, my tail sinks, the rails are submerged and my feet are just starting to get wet. My ankles a generally are above water and my nose sits nicely up and out of the water without paddling.
I doubt I'd be happy with that low a volume, but you've got me thinking. Mr. Foote is a master of the dropped rail. A little more volume in the middle to keep my ankles dry, but thinned down from what the production 10'4" Triton is, then dropped to a tight 50/50 and maybe an inch narrower.
OK, gotta do that.
Oh man, ya, a lower volume (rider relative) custom Triton with step rails would be killer!
Now I can't resist posting that remix I made of you last year:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESCL8XnMa4g
...and Creek's:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_xckyMp5Z4
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...It's all relative and my low weight makes the volumes appear lower than they really are. At 148 lbs (67 kg), the v/w ratio of this board for me is 84L/67kg = 1.25. So for bigger guys, this board would translate to:
205 lbs - 116 L
At this ratio, my tail sinks, the rails are submerged and my feet are just starting to get wet. My ankles a generally are above water and my nose sits nicely up and out of the water without paddling.
Interesting observation SA, I have similar results at 206lbs on my 9'6", 117 L B&B Machine. BTW, I find it easier to pivot turn into a wave than my chunky 10 footer.
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What a sexy shape. A new board and a surf trip to break it in, how cool is that!
I think you will have a lot of fun playing with different fins. Definitely try it out as a quad. I've got a 9x28, similar shape that goes best with that set up.
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What a sexy shape. A new board and a surf trip to break it in, how cool is that!
I think you will have a lot of fun playing with different fins. Definitely try it out as a quad. I've got a 9x28, similar shape that goes best with that set up.
Thanks. This is my first non-quad SUP setup and on the smaller stuff, the 2 + 1 felt good. But ya, I have the option to run it as a quad and I think on bigger waves, a quad will be the way to go. In general, with the wider tails we end up with on SUP, I lean towards quads.
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Can't wait to see some LB vids.
Ya, me too! We really missed the boat on bringing out our gopros on this year's trip. It's too bad--we had some really fun days. My buddy did pull out his drone for the last session on the last morning before his froth factor got too high and he joined us out in the lineup. It was a super cool remote sandbar. Nobody around for miles. He got 14 minutes of footage and managed to capture two wipeouts (man I wish I didn't bobble that take off!). I love the perspective the drone gives though. Makes a simple paddle out look great. I made a fun little edit from it:
https://youtu.be/HBKS2M7sY9E
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Super cool vid. :)
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Short answer: vanity
Not at all..... I'd call it a keen appreciation for fine art.
Your board is beautiful.... makes sense to keep it that way!
Makes me wonder...... hummmmmm, I may suggest that Rail Saver make a full length deckpad....
one that applies from your stomp pad, to the nose.... with more aggressive texture from standing area backward.
So many beautiful boards out there that deserve to be seen, not covered up!
Nice re-mix... thanks I liked that ;D
How do you grab pieces like that without having the raw footage?
I'd like to do that, without having to slog through all the raw footage to grab clips I have already used.
Your drone video is fun.... nice to see more of the paddling and surroundings.
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Makes me wonder...... hummmmmm, I may suggest that Rail Saver make a full length deckpad....
one that applies from your stomp pad, to the nose.... with more aggressive texture from standing area backward.
So many beautiful boards out there that deserve to be seen, not covered up!
I agree--it'd be great if RS came out with a full length deck pad. The Hex was a bit of pain to install. Not hard, just took time (following their video and using water did help). I'd love to try the Wax Mat too--sounds like it is more rubbery and less abrasiveness than Hex or Versa. But ya, for pure function, FCS dimple still gets my vote (and on all my boards accept this new all-white one, I've liked the look of it too). I can see why so many are using Hex on the nose of their boards. Seems like the perfect application for it.
Nice re-mix... thanks I liked that ;D
How do you grab pieces like that without having the raw footage?
I'd like to do that, without having to slog through all the raw footage to grab clips I have already used.
If I ever re-use my own clips and don't want to sift through the raw footage, I try to use the original file of the rendered video. But if I do need to pull something off of YouTube--including poaching videos of you or Bill ::) --I use the website keepvid.com.
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Thanks... I have sooo much footage that trying to relocate favorite clips is a pain.... many times I can't remember what session they were from.
I'll look into the poaching app.... then i can poach my own content :) it will be faster